Gun Jammed

Ron · 11-27-2007, 08:47 PM

I tried to take the pressure off of my striker by using the following link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbCpj6h-8d4

Obviously, I did something wrong!

Now when the toggle is lowered, My striker is about 3/8 inch in front of the safety slide and the barrel moves back and forth about a1/4 inches.

When I raise the toggle, the trigger bar does not re-engage with the striker

How do I get the striker back into its origional position against the safety slide??

any suggestions on what is going on?

Thanks

Ron

Alx · 11-28-2007, 11:09 PM

This video guy is doing the de-**** procedure right, but his explanation is pretty lame. He seems to be calling a part of the trigger bar a "striker" and causing some confusion about what is actually happening inside the gun.

The firing pin itself, the "striker" if you will, in a Luger is not visible from the outside of an assembled gun.

It would be more to the point to say something like...
"Partially open the toggle, pull and keep the trigger back, then slowly lower the toggle to allow the firing pin inside to pass the sear on the trigger bar without cocking it."

It may be that your trigger bar has broken or come apart from its pinned place in the slide.

If the slide is moving back and forth with no resistance, then your coupling link may not have engaged the recoil lever when you last assembled the top to the frame, which easily happens if not looked after carefully.

From your description, I cannot exactly visualize the problem your gun is having.

That may be why no-one else has answered your question.

Could you check the diagram and use the words there, ? as everyone will understand better.

Ron · 11-29-2007, 09:27 PM

Thanks guys for the help. I got it all figured out now and everything is working fine.
My assumption was that the trigger bar came all the way back against the safety bar when the toggle was lowered. After checking pictures, I see that this is not the case.
Also, when I reassembled the gun, I allowed the coupling link to go behind the recoil lever, rather than in front of it. This prevented me from raising the toggle.

At this point, I panicked, thinking I has broken something in my 1940 commercial banner with all matching numbers. I was afraid to do anything!

Anyway, all is well now and thanks for your help.

Thanks,

Ron

P.S. My friend just bought a 1910 Erfurt with matching numbers for $1000.00. May need your help in helping him determine if he got a good deal or not. Looks like new. Will send pictures and identification info later.
thanks again

Rod WMG · 12-01-2007, 02:56 PM

Now, Tac, don't use the "O" word!

Alx · 12-02-2007, 07:42 AM

Ron, your gun has a "relieved" trigger bar, which indeed does not come all the way back to the safety bar when the toggle is lowered, but do not assume that all Lugers are this way. Up to some time in 1915, the trigger bar extended all the way back to the safety bar, but German army regulations then determined the the trigger bar should be thereafter milled "relieved" as your is, to allow the gun to be unchambered when on safe. Most of these earlier guns in the German army's possession were sent back to the factories to be modified, but many were left as originally unrelieved.
Notice, that although the chambered round (gun cocked) can be unloaded with the safety on, provided the trigger bar is milled for relief, that the toggle cannot be cycled if the Luger is on safe if the gun is not cocked already.
The relieved trigger bar is only effective in allowing the gun to be cycled on safe, if it is cocked.

11-27-2007, 08:47 PM	#1
Ron User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 19 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Gun Jammed I tried to take the pressure off of my striker by using the following link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbCpj6h-8d4 Obviously, I did something wrong! Now when the toggle is lowered, My striker is about 3/8 inch in front of the safety slide and the barrel moves back and forth about a1/4 inches. When I raise the toggle, the trigger bar does not re-engage with the striker How do I get the striker back into its origional position against the safety slide?? any suggestions on what is going on? Thanks Ron

11-28-2007, 11:09 PM	#2
Alx User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Nashville, Tennessee area Posts: 263 Thanks: 5 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	This video guy is doing the de-**** procedure right, but his explanation is pretty lame. He seems to be calling a part of the trigger bar a "striker" and causing some confusion about what is actually happening inside the gun. The firing pin itself, the "striker" if you will, in a Luger is not visible from the outside of an assembled gun. It would be more to the point to say something like... "Partially open the toggle, pull and keep the trigger back, then slowly lower the toggle to allow the firing pin inside to pass the sear on the trigger bar without cocking it." It may be that your trigger bar has broken or come apart from its pinned place in the slide. If the slide is moving back and forth with no resistance, then your coupling link may not have engaged the recoil lever when you last assembled the top to the frame, which easily happens if not looked after carefully. From your description, I cannot exactly visualize the problem your gun is having. That may be why no-one else has answered your question. Could you check the diagram and use the words there, ? as everyone will understand better.

11-29-2007, 09:27 PM	#3
Ron User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 19 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks guys for the help. I got it all figured out now and everything is working fine. My assumption was that the trigger bar came all the way back against the safety bar when the toggle was lowered. After checking pictures, I see that this is not the case. Also, when I reassembled the gun, I allowed the coupling link to go behind the recoil lever, rather than in front of it. This prevented me from raising the toggle. At this point, I panicked, thinking I has broken something in my 1940 commercial banner with all matching numbers. I was afraid to do anything! Anyway, all is well now and thanks for your help. Thanks, Ron P.S. My friend just bought a 1910 Erfurt with matching numbers for $1000.00. May need your help in helping him determine if he got a good deal or not. Looks like new. Will send pictures and identification info later. thanks again

12-01-2007, 02:56 PM	#4
Rod WMG User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: The Edge of Texas Posts: 514 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Now, Tac, don't use the "O" word!

12-02-2007, 07:42 AM	#5
Alx User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Nashville, Tennessee area Posts: 263 Thanks: 5 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Ron, your gun has a "relieved" trigger bar, which indeed does not come all the way back to the safety bar when the toggle is lowered, but do not assume that all Lugers are this way. Up to some time in 1915, the trigger bar extended all the way back to the safety bar, but German army regulations then determined the the trigger bar should be thereafter milled "relieved" as your is, to allow the gun to be unchambered when on safe. Most of these earlier guns in the German army's possession were sent back to the factories to be modified, but many were left as originally unrelieved. Notice, that although the chambered round (gun cocked) can be unloaded with the safety on, provided the trigger bar is milled for relief, that the toggle cannot be cycled if the Luger is on safe if the gun is not cocked already. The relieved trigger bar is only effective in allowing the gun to be cycled on safe, if it is cocked.