Brownell's rust blue

Steve Richards · 08-22-2006, 12:57 AM

Has anyone had experience with the rust blue chemical that Brownell's sells? I am buying an Astra Condor that will need to be refinished and if the solution works as indicated on their website I will do that. I like the look of rust blue better thatn the hot dips and would like to do it myself if it is feasable.

Steve Richards

policeluger · 08-22-2006, 09:04 AM

I've used it for years, if you do your part, it will produce a wonderful rust blue finish....anything else I can help you with?

Hugh · 08-22-2006, 11:42 PM

I've used the Dichropan IM and believe it to be the easiest & most "foolproof", especially for a beginner.

Revolvr · 09-04-2006, 06:15 PM

I've used Brownell's "Laurel Mountain Forge" on two handguns. Worked great. It has a degreaser in it that makes it easier for a beginner because it reduces the probability you'll end up with uneven or fingerprinted results.

Have not done a Luger yet, but I'm looking for a shooter to refinish later this year once it cools off (I live in Phoenix and do the refinishing in my garage).

Rust blue takes a lot of effort and time to do well but can turn out very fine. Attached is a photo of a Broomhandle I refinished recently.

-- Dan

Steve Richards · 09-04-2006, 07:35 PM

Hugh and Dan,

Thank you for the replies. Now I have to decide which one would be better. The current issue of Surplus Fierarms has an article about reblueing a Luger and they used two different Dichropan products.

Does the Laurel Mountain Forge require heating the parts? I like how the broomhandle came out. You have my sympathy living in Poenix. I lived there for 11 months in the mid 1960's. From mid-August to early July. I do not like the heat! Being a Willamette Valley boy, anything over 75 is too hot for my blood.

I will have to call Brownells and see if they can explain what the differnce in the two are and which is closest to a hot European dip blue.

Steve

Hugh · 09-05-2006, 01:08 AM

Steve,

The Laurel Mountain is a traditional rust blue, and requires more steps than the Dichropan IM. The Dichropan IM requires that the parts be boiled in water, but a decent blue can be obatined in a couple of applications. The Laurel Mtn will probably require about 5 applications for good coverage. Revolvr can correct me if this is wrong.

Revolvr · 09-05-2006, 09:02 PM

The traditional rust blue does not require pre-heating the metal. The basic steps are:

Prep the metal by stripping any old finish, and polish if needed. Metal prep takes the most time and muscle. I do most all by hand.

Apply the rust blue solution
Allow to rust a couple of hours. I built a rusting box for this.
Boil to turn the rust to black
Card it with steel wool and a carding brush (also from Brownell's)
Degrease again if needed (not needed with Laurel Mtn)

Then the whole process is repeated 3-5 times. I have found 4 works well. Gets in to diminishing returns after a while.

Then I let it sit 24 hours or so, then oil it.

Below is a photo of the work in progress after rusting before boiling.

-- Dan

Dwight Gruber · 09-05-2006, 11:16 PM

What happens if you apply rust blue over the existing blued finish?

--Dwight

08-22-2006, 12:57 AM	#1
Steve Richards User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 487 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Brownell's rust blue Has anyone had experience with the rust blue chemical that Brownell's sells? I am buying an Astra Condor that will need to be refinished and if the solution works as indicated on their website I will do that. I like the look of rust blue better thatn the hot dips and would like to do it myself if it is feasable. Steve Richards

08-22-2006, 11:42 PM	#3
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 166 Times in 65 Posts	I've used the Dichropan IM and believe it to be the easiest & most "foolproof", especially for a beginner. __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

09-04-2006, 06:15 PM	#4
Revolvr User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 86 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I've used Brownell's "Laurel Mountain Forge" on two handguns. Worked great. It has a degreaser in it that makes it easier for a beginner because it reduces the probability you'll end up with uneven or fingerprinted results. Have not done a Luger yet, but I'm looking for a shooter to refinish later this year once it cools off (I live in Phoenix and do the refinishing in my garage). Rust blue takes a lot of effort and time to do well but can turn out very fine. Attached is a photo of a Broomhandle I refinished recently. -- Dan Attached Thumbnails

09-05-2006, 01:08 AM	#6
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 166 Times in 65 Posts	Steve, The Laurel Mountain is a traditional rust blue, and requires more steps than the Dichropan IM. The Dichropan IM requires that the parts be boiled in water, but a decent blue can be obatined in a couple of applications. The Laurel Mtn will probably require about 5 applications for good coverage. Revolvr can correct me if this is wrong. __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

09-05-2006, 09:02 PM	#7
Revolvr User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 86 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	The traditional rust blue does not require pre-heating the metal. The basic steps are: Prep the metal by stripping any old finish, and polish if needed. Metal prep takes the most time and muscle. I do most all by hand. Apply the rust blue solution Allow to rust a couple of hours. I built a rusting box for this. Boil to turn the rust to black Card it with steel wool and a carding brush (also from Brownell's) Degrease again if needed (not needed with Laurel Mtn) Then the whole process is repeated 3-5 times. I have found 4 works well. Gets in to diminishing returns after a while. Then I let it sit 24 hours or so, then oil it. Below is a photo of the work in progress after rusting before boiling. -- Dan Attached Thumbnails

08-22-2006, 09:04 AM	#2
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	I've used it for years, if you do your part, it will produce a wonderful rust blue finish....anything else I can help you with?

09-04-2006, 07:35 PM	#5
Steve Richards User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 487 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Hugh and Dan, Thank you for the replies. Now I have to decide which one would be better. The current issue of Surplus Fierarms has an article about reblueing a Luger and they used two different Dichropan products. Does the Laurel Mountain Forge require heating the parts? I like how the broomhandle came out. You have my sympathy living in Poenix. I lived there for 11 months in the mid 1960's. From mid-August to early July. I do not like the heat! Being a Willamette Valley boy, anything over 75 is too hot for my blood. I will have to call Brownells and see if they can explain what the differnce in the two are and which is closest to a hot European dip blue. Steve

09-05-2006, 11:16 PM	#8
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,908 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,330 Times in 435 Posts	What happens if you apply rust blue over the existing blued finish? --Dwight