Brownell's rust blue
 

Has anyone had experience with the rust blue chemical that Brownell's sells? I am buying an Astra Condor that will need to be refinished and if the solution works as indicated on their website I will do that. I like the look of rust blue better thatn the hot dips and would like to do it myself if it is feasable.

Steve Richards

I've used it for years, if you do your part, it will produce a wonderful rust blue finish....anything else I can help you with?

I've used the Dichropan IM and believe it to be the easiest & most "foolproof", especially for a beginner.

I've used Brownell's "Laurel Mountain Forge" on two handguns. Worked great. It has a degreaser in it that makes it easier for a beginner because it reduces the probability you'll end up with uneven or fingerprinted results.

Have not done a Luger yet, but I'm looking for a shooter to refinish later this year once it cools off (I live in Phoenix and do the refinishing in my garage).

Rust blue takes a lot of effort and time to do well but can turn out very fine. Attached is a photo of a Broomhandle I refinished recently.

-- Dan

Hugh and Dan,

Thank you for the replies. Now I have to decide which one would be better. The current issue of Surplus Fierarms has an article about reblueing a Luger and they used two different Dichropan products.

Does the Laurel Mountain Forge require heating the parts? I like how the broomhandle came out. You have my sympathy living in Poenix. I lived there for 11 months in the mid 1960's. From mid-August to early July. I do not like the heat! Being a Willamette Valley boy, anything over 75 is too hot for my blood.

I will have to call Brownells and see if they can explain what the differnce in the two are and which is closest to a hot European dip blue.

Steve

Steve,

The Laurel Mountain is a traditional rust blue, and requires more steps than the Dichropan IM. The Dichropan IM requires that the parts be boiled in water, but a decent blue can be obatined in a couple of applications. The Laurel Mtn will probably require about 5 applications for good coverage. Revolvr can correct me if this is wrong.

The traditional rust blue does not require pre-heating the metal. The basic steps are:

Prep the metal by stripping any old finish, and polish if needed. Metal prep takes the most time and muscle. I do most all by hand.

Apply the rust blue solution
Allow to rust a couple of hours. I built a rusting box for this.
Boil to turn the rust to black
Card it with steel wool and a carding brush (also from Brownell's)
Degrease again if needed (not needed with Laurel Mtn)

Then the whole process is repeated 3-5 times. I have found 4 works well. Gets in to diminishing returns after a while.

Then I let it sit 24 hours or so, then oil it.

Below is a photo of the work in progress after rusting before boiling.

-- Dan

What happens if you apply rust blue over the existing blued finish?

--Dwight