9MMX19 reloading

[mrerick]

Don't forget that 9mm Luger headspaces on the case mouth. Upon insertion into the chamber, it stops when the mouth reaches the correct depth against a shoulder step in the chamber.

If you taper too much, it might either miss the shoulder or cant against it at a slight angle if the chamber is cut loose.

This is one reason I don't overwork the mouth of a 9mm case by "belling" it large for bullet insertion. Just a slight amount is enough to center the bullet to be pressed in properly.

[Rick W.]

Yes, I have the same concepts about belling, crimping, champering. I experienced shaving of the base of the plated bullet in my original setup, then belled more to allow the base to start easily; then I experienced the bullet being seating off the line of the bore, ie the bottom was on line, but the top veered to the right some,.........so when rolled on the table, the nose would go up/down...........kinda embarrassing to an old guy.

So with that, I belled more and thought I was there; but still have say 10% that will not gage.

a belling rod has the belling feature, but also has a lower feature to normalize the resized case where the bullet ends up. I am using mixed brass, like the other 30 years without troubles, but do notice differences in pressure to seat a plated bullet; even maxibelling.

I may examine the belling feature as to both bell and expanding features to see if that makes sense. I can always make one up I reckon but not sure if I am up the right tree yet or not. My reloading dies for the 9mm are not Dillon,and are economy type one might say, but been ok so far. I have scrapped 30 Luger dies by this vendor, but the 9mm straight wall has always been ok; well for a long time anyway. Perhaps time to use my head rather than just trust what I can buy.

It may be possible, that the plated bullet does not glide down gracefully down the belled(internally sized) case too good. Guess been at it too long, might have to take a breather to see the measuring sticks right again.

Might as well do a looking at the seater too............or heck, go buy a set of expensive dies huh?............. ..........maybe whine to a couple of friends to borrow a high quality die set.

thanks for the pointers and good wishes..............

[rhuff]

Originally Posted by Rick W.

My reloading dies for the 9mm are not Dillon,and are economy type one might say, but been ok so far. I have scrapped 30 Luger dies by this vendor, but the 9mm straight wall has always been ok)

I scrapped my 30 Luger die set from "this vendor" also, and will purchase no more full sets from them. Mine were very poor quality and would not produce a loaded round that was acceptable to me. Perhaps it was just the set that I purchased, but I will not take that risk again. I am a bit OCD as to my reloading!!

[Sieger]

Originally Posted by mrerick

Don't forget that 9mm Luger headspaces on the case mouth. Upon insertion into the chamber, it stops when the mouth reaches the correct depth against a shoulder step in the chamber.

If you taper too much, it might either miss the shoulder or cant against it at a slight angle if the chamber is cut loose.

This is one reason I don't overwork the mouth of a 9mm case by "belling" it large for bullet insertion. Just a slight amount is enough to center the bullet to be pressed in properly.

Mrerick,

I, very respectfully, disagree, as the 9MM Luger case is a tapered case, not a straight walled one (though ever so slightly).

It stops, against the barrel, somewhere near the head of the case, not at the mouth of the case.

Respectfully,


Sieger