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Unread 05-06-2016, 02:30 AM   #2
ithacaartist
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Vic,

The failure to (eject or extract?) is generally not directly related the failure to feed, though, as you've demonstrated here, they can certainly occur simultaneously. It's best if your smith has Luger experience.

In the meantime, you can first check for a weak mainspring using the masking tape technique. Stick a piece of tape on the back of the frame , centered directly below the "duck-tail" of the rear toggle joint. If the spring is weak, the duck-tail will slap the frame there, and the tape will be really mooshed if it is being slapped hard. The lighter the mark, the less worry about a weak spring. Wolff springs, or Lugerdoc, here on the forum, will sell you a new one if necessary.

If it is not extracting, check the extractor for a chipped claw, or buildup of crud in its well. Maybe it needs a new spring.

If it is not ejecting, a simple thing to check is a bent or broken ejector. With the toggle locked back on an empty mag, you should be able to tell whether the end of the ejector sticks in far enough to hit the round. Otherwise, the bolt may not be going back far enough--which can be for a variety of reasons. But it can't be doing this and slapping, too.

Luger mag springs are stout and powerful. A weak one causes problems, so a couple new MecGar mags are in order, for shooting.

Winchester "White Box" 115 gr. FMJ is the go-to ammo for starters and tuning. Although Fiocchi and S&B are also fine ammo, they may be a tad hotter than the Win, due to their European origin. No +P, +P+, or anything marked NATO. Most Lugers should be able to handle the 124 gr. FMJ loads, as well.

The Luger mechanism is a grand concert of steel masses, momentums, geometry, springs, and a small explosion. Issues can present strangely or sometimes be a bit complex, but when the orchestra is tuned up right, I think I'm not alone in saying it can play one heck of a sweet song!
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