K98k stock repair?

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

Rich,
can a "regular" guy find the Cascophen resorcinol glue...

I couldn't - Marc [cdmech] directed me to their site.

Here's my Mauser repair thread - I used polyester resin for those two stocks -

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=30518

Acrylate glue, like "crazy glue", is even ok for small, clean, closed cracks where it can penetrate the wood

Hugh Clark recommended Crazy Glue to me when I was looking to fix a grip...I've never used it...The instructions say it sets in under a minute; it takes me longer than that just to get the parts mated...

Cascophen is a Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive...I don't follow the EPA news, but I would bet it is the formaldehyde that has been restricted and something else substituted in the 'commercial market' Resorcinol Glue products. Weldwood markets something they call Resorcinol Glue, but it doesn't hold. BTW, I did my Gonzo carbine buttstock sectioning with Cascophen. It even fills chip holes, seams, mistakes [oops!]. It sands down almost like Walnut.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

Hugh Clark recommended Crazy Glue to me when I was looking to fix a grip...I've never used it...The instructions say it sets in under a minute; it takes me longer than that just to get the parts mated...

Rich, there are two consistencies of Crazy/super glue. The one we are most familiar with is the clear liquid. With it, you get one shot at putting the pieces together because there isn't any appreciable time to work with it--boom! It's set... I've used this when there is a crack, but not two pieces of wood that need to be aligned. It is runny enough to slurp considerably into the repair, and if you can flex the joint a little to help this action, be quick about it. I have used it to fasten material onto the $1k X k chip area, however, buy clamping that level on the back to a block covered with a layer of plastic wrap, then sliding the patch up to it. The block makes sure the levels in back are flush, so one only needs to regulate the up/down, left/right aspects, which are clearly visible from above while the patch is positioned.

Then there's a relatively new formulation in clear gel form. It allows lots more working/positioning time and has enough body to fill small imperfections. When the parts fit together well, there's little, if any, crack visible afterwards. Good pressure while it sets also helps.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

however, buy clamping that level on the back to a block covered with a layer of plastic wrap...

I can only add that when dealing with any kind of glue or resin I use waxed paper rather than plastic wrap. At some time long ago I had plastic wrap dissolve from a glue...Waxed paper doesn't dissolve.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

I can only add that when dealing with any kind of glue or resin I use waxed paper rather than plastic wrap. At some time long ago I had plastic wrap dissolve from a glue...Waxed paper doesn't dissolve.

Rich, you are right! I'd forgotten about that, used to use it for gluing and clamping wood projects. I'll take back that part of my recommendation. But all this talk got me wondering if I still have a chunk of delrin in a shop drawer. Anything applied to block could moosh around or wrinkle, but with a block that's non-interactive, that won't happen. ( I think I actually used a piece of brass flat stock last time)

Originally Posted by Blight

would it simply re-crack if the stock is ill fit?

It just might. If there is a lot of play in the fit up, isn't one approach to use an epoxy bedding material?

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

I still have a chunk of delrin in a shop drawer. Anything applied to block could moosh around or wrinkle, but with a block that's non-interactive, that won't happen...

My last project, I used the waxed paper taped to a 3/8" piece of polystyrene foam with a 1/4" wood backing piece on each side of the patch, then clamped it. The foam/wood was so I wouldn't leave clamp marks on the buttstock, and the foam distributed the clamping force fairly equally over the irregular surface. Worked out OK. There were a couple voids & bubbles that had to be filled in after initial sanding, but I was happy with the join.