Luger paint color

ithacaartist · 04-30-2012, 11:08 PM

Robert,

I'm pretty sure we can rule out ferric nitrocarburizing because it only works with ferrous metals, let alone that it's application temps would make me worry about fusing the work in the process. The IonBond process sounds like the ticket, potentially.

I'm thinking definitely not baked, everybody. Here's why:

Last night I immersed a broken Erma La.22 toggle in MEK based stripper overnight. I baked another at 450 deg. Neither action had any affect on finish or structure of the test pcs. I used a brass brush to check for any motion of this finish and it was still hard and tight. One pass of a steel edged scraper yields bare metal.

Jerry, I see what you're saying about the painted/coated look of the Ermas. I noticed that on the underside of the toggle scraps, it looked like such a coating might be there, but the topside of the part is smooth and glossy, likely buffed before finishing, and it has the same look as a blued finish on a steel gun. I think the "painted" look on the underside is a result of the surface texture of that part of the piece, preserved straight from the mold.

I'd also consider electroplating, like black chrome. My former Ithaca/SKB shotgun's barrel was finished that way, with white chrome inside. And there was an Ithaca/Erma connection in the '70's.

I'm hoping this thread lasts long enough to obtain a definitive answer. Apologies for highjacking the thread. The original topic sparked my initial question.

Ted, when I view photo #2 full size, I can see the texture left by the bead blasting, particularly on the bbl. Slick work, there, by the way. You've changed a pistol that just got home from a long, hard day to one that's has a s__t, shower and shave and is now sporting a dinner tux.

DP

04-30-2012, 11:08 PM	#12
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,368 Thanks: 7,432 Thanked 2,611 Times in 1,378 Posts	Robert, I'm pretty sure we can rule out ferric nitrocarburizing because it only works with ferrous metals, let alone that it's application temps would make me worry about fusing the work in the process. The IonBond process sounds like the ticket, potentially. I'm thinking definitely not baked, everybody. Here's why: Last night I immersed a broken Erma La.22 toggle in MEK based stripper overnight. I baked another at 450 deg. Neither action had any affect on finish or structure of the test pcs. I used a brass brush to check for any motion of this finish and it was still hard and tight. One pass of a steel edged scraper yields bare metal. Jerry, I see what you're saying about the painted/coated look of the Ermas. I noticed that on the underside of the toggle scraps, it looked like such a coating might be there, but the topside of the part is smooth and glossy, likely buffed before finishing, and it has the same look as a blued finish on a steel gun. I think the "painted" look on the underside is a result of the surface texture of that part of the piece, preserved straight from the mold. I'd also consider electroplating, like black chrome. My former Ithaca/SKB shotgun's barrel was finished that way, with white chrome inside. And there was an Ithaca/Erma connection in the '70's. I'm hoping this thread lasts long enough to obtain a definitive answer. Apologies for highjacking the thread. The original topic sparked my initial question. Ted, when I view photo #2 full size, I can see the texture left by the bead blasting, particularly on the bbl. Slick work, there, by the way. You've changed a pistol that just got home from a long, hard day to one that's has a s__t, shower and shave and is now sporting a dinner tux. DP