Replacement straw Trigger?

Zamo · 12-03-2007, 10:17 PM

Where is the best source for a strawed trigger? This is for a nice 1917 shooter. Original or quality repo. Thanks.
Also, while we're at it, how about the other strawed parts if availible?

Lugerdoc · 12-05-2007, 10:37 AM

If you already have the parts, particularly if they are matching numbered to your PO8, it would be far cheaper and less fit problems, to have them restrawed. Ted Green (Thor at TLSS) is the resident expert. TH

Hugh · 12-05-2007, 05:36 PM

It is easy to straw your own parts in the kitchen oven. I believe the instructions are on this website. Do a search for "strawing".

Zamo · 12-05-2007, 06:25 PM

No, the trigger in question is very heavily pitted, and it's already a non-matching pistol, so that's why I was searching other sources.

Edward Tinker · 12-05-2007, 06:29 PM

ebay used to be where you could get parts. Try Tom Heller and/or put a WTB (wanted to buy) ad for a trigger in the trader section

most likely it will be blued, and then either straw it yourself or find someone who will straw it. A new strawed piece will make the other older parts on your luger look funny though...

Zamo · 12-06-2007, 01:02 AM

Here's what I'm talking about. "If" I were to restraw the trigger, I'd do the mag latch, take down lever and the ejector as well.

Its a pretty rough piece, though its condition has grown on me, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I am starting to think about spraying it with either a two tone, black on gray, or black on O.D. green Norrell's moly-resin refinish, with the straw colored parts retained.

It's a shooter, and there is some pitting on the frame that I don't think would look very good under a new blue job, so that's why I'm toying with the Moly-resin approach. Cheap. Cheap and durable. I've done a number of AR-15's, a Savage 110, and a shooter 1903A1 Springfield with that stuff, and am very happy with it.
Here's the pistol showing the miscolored, mismatched parts currently on it:

I may not do a lot more than just replace the trigger, as the more I handle it, the more I'm really coming to like the old patina.

Zamo · 12-06-2007, 01:05 AM

Sorry, here is the "missing" photo from the above post...I fat-fingered it.

Mauser720 · 12-06-2007, 01:26 AM

Zamo -

The parts you've mentioned are all usually available at Sarco Inc. too

http://www.sarcoinc.com/lgr.html

Mauser720 - Ron

Lugerdoc · 12-08-2007, 10:26 AM

Zemo, I have plenty of exc strawed DWM or Erfurt tiggler available. TH

Ron Wood · 12-08-2007, 01:34 PM

Zemo,
That is a decent functional condition Luger. However, the trigger is beyond recovery. I would snap up one of Lugerdoc's tigglers if I were you.

MFC · 12-09-2007, 03:18 AM

I've never tried strawed... but chartreuse tigglers are great for trophy bass.
Mike C.

Mauser720 · 12-09-2007, 07:56 AM

Zamo -

My first Luger was a $165.00 "shooter" that looked a lot like the one you have acquired. However, it functioned perfectly, and would empty a magazine flawlessly just as quickly as you could pull the trigger.

Since you probably are going to replace the trigger it might be interesting to see what could be done with the old pitted one. Have you heard of "Liquid Steel"?

If you cleaned the old pitted trigger, you might be able to put Liquid Steel in those pits. Then you could use whetstone to flatten the repaired sides of the trigger. (It appears that the pits are on the side. But if they are also on the part of the surface the index finger fulls, then you will need to use fine emory cloth on that surface too.)

Then you could paint the trigger with a flat black epoxy paint. You would only want to do this on the ouside part of the trigger that is visible, never the interior parts. I've had good luck with flat black epoxy paint on exposed metal surfaces.

I actually do not know if this would work or not; however, since you are probably going to get a replacement trigger anyway, this would be an interesting "project." Just a thought.

Mauser720 - Ron

Zamo · 12-10-2007, 12:43 AM

It's a wonderful idea!
And I will certainly try it. One of the great banes of all the hobbies I've ever been involved in, is my absolute disdain for sanding. This will probably spell the downfall of this little project as well. I just can't seem to keep from rushing it.
But we'll try. I also think that I'll try the MolyResin instead of paint. I've had very good luck with that on a number of other firearms (and it's expensive enough that I force myself to do the correct prep before hand - clean, clean, clean and then clean!). It cures in a 300degree oven for an hour, so I'll need to check the flashpoint on liquid steel, but I think it's much higher than that when cured itself.
Thanks for the idea. I guarantee I will be posting the progress on either this Luger, or the next one, and most assuradly on the trigger experiment.

Zamo · 12-10-2007, 12:43 AM

Oh, and one more thing...I sure WISH I had gotten this shooter for only $165!!!

policeluger · 12-10-2007, 01:04 AM

If the triggger is SN'# to the gun, it could be tig welded up, finished and strawed to near new apperance, not cheap to do but could be saved if need be......

Zamo · 12-10-2007, 01:54 AM

It's not...It's a full on mix-master shooter regardless.

12-03-2007, 10:17 PM	#1
Zamo User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Washington State Posts: 142 Thanks: 4 Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts	Replacement straw Trigger? Where is the best source for a strawed trigger? This is for a nice 1917 shooter. Original or quality repo. Thanks. Also, while we're at it, how about the other strawed parts if availible?

12-05-2007, 10:37 AM	#2
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 737 Times in 484 Posts	If you already have the parts, particularly if they are matching numbered to your PO8, it would be far cheaper and less fit problems, to have them restrawed. Ted Green (Thor at TLSS) is the resident expert. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

12-05-2007, 05:36 PM	#3
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 166 Times in 65 Posts	It is easy to straw your own parts in the kitchen oven. I believe the instructions are on this website. Do a search for "strawing". __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

12-05-2007, 06:29 PM	#5
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,967 Thanks: 2,066 Thanked 4,596 Times in 2,117 Posts	ebay used to be where you could get parts. Try Tom Heller and/or put a WTB (wanted to buy) ad for a trigger in the trader section most likely it will be blued, and then either straw it yourself or find someone who will straw it. A new strawed piece will make the other older parts on your luger look funny though... __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

12-06-2007, 01:26 AM	#8
Mauser720 User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 535 Thanks: 18 Thanked 49 Times in 33 Posts	Zamo - The parts you've mentioned are all usually available at Sarco Inc. too http://www.sarcoinc.com/lgr.html Mauser720 - Ron __________________ Mauser720 - Ron "Those who do not know history are doomed to repeat it."

12-05-2007, 06:25 PM	#4
Zamo User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Washington State Posts: 142 Thanks: 4 Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts	No, the trigger in question is very heavily pitted, and it's already a non-matching pistol, so that's why I was searching other sources.

12-06-2007, 01:02 AM	#6
Zamo User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Washington State Posts: 142 Thanks: 4 Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts	Here's what I'm talking about. "If" I were to restraw the trigger, I'd do the mag latch, take down lever and the ejector as well. Its a pretty rough piece, though its condition has grown on me, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I am starting to think about spraying it with either a two tone, black on gray, or black on O.D. green Norrell's moly-resin refinish, with the straw colored parts retained. It's a shooter, and there is some pitting on the frame that I don't think would look very good under a new blue job, so that's why I'm toying with the Moly-resin approach. Cheap. Cheap and durable. I've done a number of AR-15's, a Savage 110, and a shooter 1903A1 Springfield with that stuff, and am very happy with it. Here's the pistol showing the miscolored, mismatched parts currently on it: I may not do a lot more than just replace the trigger, as the more I handle it, the more I'm really coming to like the old patina.

12-06-2007, 01:05 AM	#7
Zamo User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Washington State Posts: 142 Thanks: 4 Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts	Sorry, here is the "missing" photo from the above post...I fat-fingered it.

12-08-2007, 10:26 AM	#9
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 737 Times in 484 Posts	Zemo, I have plenty of exc strawed DWM or Erfurt tiggler available. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

12-08-2007, 01:34 PM	#10
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,040 Thanks: 1,106 Thanked 5,257 Times in 1,724 Posts	Zemo, That is a decent functional condition Luger. However, the trigger is beyond recovery. I would snap up one of Lugerdoc's tigglers if I were you. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

12-09-2007, 03:18 AM	#11
MFC User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Louisiana Posts: 1,237 Thanks: 183 Thanked 281 Times in 162 Posts	I've never tried strawed... but chartreuse tigglers are great for trophy bass. Mike C. __________________ Mike C.

12-09-2007, 07:56 AM	#12
Mauser720 User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 535 Thanks: 18 Thanked 49 Times in 33 Posts	Zamo - My first Luger was a $165.00 "shooter" that looked a lot like the one you have acquired. However, it functioned perfectly, and would empty a magazine flawlessly just as quickly as you could pull the trigger. Since you probably are going to replace the trigger it might be interesting to see what could be done with the old pitted one. Have you heard of "Liquid Steel"? If you cleaned the old pitted trigger, you might be able to put Liquid Steel in those pits. Then you could use whetstone to flatten the repaired sides of the trigger. (It appears that the pits are on the side. But if they are also on the part of the surface the index finger fulls, then you will need to use fine emory cloth on that surface too.) Then you could paint the trigger with a flat black epoxy paint. You would only want to do this on the ouside part of the trigger that is visible, never the interior parts. I've had good luck with flat black epoxy paint on exposed metal surfaces. I actually do not know if this would work or not; however, since you are probably going to get a replacement trigger anyway, this would be an interesting "project." Just a thought. Mauser720 - Ron __________________ Mauser720 - Ron "Those who do not know history are doomed to repeat it."

12-10-2007, 12:43 AM	#13
Zamo User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Washington State Posts: 142 Thanks: 4 Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts	It's a wonderful idea! And I will certainly try it. One of the great banes of all the hobbies I've ever been involved in, is my absolute disdain for sanding. This will probably spell the downfall of this little project as well. I just can't seem to keep from rushing it. But we'll try. I also think that I'll try the MolyResin instead of paint. I've had very good luck with that on a number of other firearms (and it's expensive enough that I force myself to do the correct prep before hand - clean, clean, clean and then clean!). It cures in a 300degree oven for an hour, so I'll need to check the flashpoint on liquid steel, but I think it's much higher than that when cured itself. Thanks for the idea. I guarantee I will be posting the progress on either this Luger, or the next one, and most assuradly on the trigger experiment.

12-10-2007, 01:04 AM	#15
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	If the triggger is SN'# to the gun, it could be tig welded up, finished and strawed to near new apperance, not cheap to do but could be saved if need be......

12-10-2007, 01:54 AM	#16
Zamo User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Washington State Posts: 142 Thanks: 4 Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts	It's not...It's a full on mix-master shooter regardless.