Replacement straw Trigger?
 

Where is the best source for a strawed trigger? This is for a nice 1917 shooter. Original or quality repo. Thanks.
Also, while we're at it, how about the other strawed parts if availible?

If you already have the parts, particularly if they are matching numbered to your PO8, it would be far cheaper and less fit problems, to have them restrawed. Ted Green (Thor at TLSS) is the resident expert. TH

It is easy to straw your own parts in the kitchen oven. I believe the instructions are on this website. Do a search for "strawing".

No, the trigger in question is very heavily pitted, and it's already a non-matching pistol, so that's why I was searching other sources.

ebay used to be where you could get parts. Try Tom Heller and/or put a WTB (wanted to buy) ad for a trigger in the trader section

most likely it will be blued, and then either straw it yourself or find someone who will straw it. A new strawed piece will make the other older parts on your luger look funny though...

Here's what I'm talking about. "If" I were to restraw the trigger, I'd do the mag latch, take down lever and the ejector as well.
http://home.comcast.net/~dbweb1903/g...1917dwm/d7.JPG

Its a pretty rough piece, though its condition has grown on me, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I am starting to think about spraying it with either a two tone, black on gray, or black on O.D. green Norrell's moly-resin refinish, with the straw colored parts retained.
http://http://home.comcast.net/~dbwe...1917dwm/d6.jpg
It's a shooter, and there is some pitting on the frame that I don't think would look very good under a new blue job, so that's why I'm toying with the Moly-resin approach. Cheap. Cheap and durable. I've done a number of AR-15's, a Savage 110, and a shooter 1903A1 Springfield with that stuff, and am very happy with it.
Here's the pistol showing the miscolored, mismatched parts currently on it:
http://home.comcast.net/~dbweb1903/g...1917dwm/d8.jpg
I may not do a lot more than just replace the trigger, as the more I handle it, the more I'm really coming to like the old patina.

Sorry, here is the "missing" photo from the above post...I fat-fingered it.
http://home.comcast.net/~dbweb1903/g...1917dwm/d6.jpg

Zamo -

The parts you've mentioned are all usually available at Sarco Inc. too

http://www.sarcoinc.com/lgr.html

Mauser720 - Ron

Zemo, I have plenty of exc strawed DWM or Erfurt tiggler available. TH

Zemo,
That is a decent functional condition Luger. However, the trigger is beyond recovery. I would snap up one of Lugerdoc's tigglers if I were you.:)

:D
I've never tried strawed... but chartreuse tigglers are great for trophy bass.
Mike C.

Zamo -

My first Luger was a $165.00 "shooter" that looked a lot like the one you have acquired. However, it functioned perfectly, and would empty a magazine flawlessly just as quickly as you could pull the trigger.

Since you probably are going to replace the trigger it might be interesting to see what could be done with the old pitted one. Have you heard of "Liquid Steel"?

If you cleaned the old pitted trigger, you might be able to put Liquid Steel in those pits. Then you could use whetstone to flatten the repaired sides of the trigger. (It appears that the pits are on the side. But if they are also on the part of the surface the index finger fulls, then you will need to use fine emory cloth on that surface too.)

Then you could paint the trigger with a flat black epoxy paint. You would only want to do this on the ouside part of the trigger that is visible, never the interior parts. I've had good luck with flat black epoxy paint on exposed metal surfaces.

I actually do not know if this would work or not; however, since you are probably going to get a replacement trigger anyway, this would be an interesting "project." Just a thought.

Mauser720 - Ron

It's a wonderful idea!
And I will certainly try it. One of the great banes of all the hobbies I've ever been involved in, is my absolute disdain for sanding. This will probably spell the downfall of this little project as well. I just can't seem to keep from rushing it.
But we'll try. I also think that I'll try the MolyResin instead of paint. I've had very good luck with that on a number of other firearms (and it's expensive enough that I force myself to do the correct prep before hand - clean, clean, clean and then clean!). It cures in a 300degree oven for an hour, so I'll need to check the flashpoint on liquid steel, but I think it's much higher than that when cured itself.
Thanks for the idea. I guarantee I will be posting the progress on either this Luger, or the next one, and most assuradly on the trigger experiment. :cheers:

Oh, and one more thing...I sure WISH I had gotten this shooter for only $165!!! :D

If the triggger is SN'# to the gun, it could be tig welded up, finished and strawed to near new apperance, not cheap to do but could be saved if need be......

It's not...It's a full on mix-master shooter regardless.