New lug for my 1916 Artillery

GreyHammer · 09-22-2014, 11:18 PM

Today in the mail my Luger frame was returned from the machinist with the once ground-off lug replaced. Broke out the stock and was very pleased with the result. This going to be a smashing addition to my collection. Because of the ground-off lug, I got this piece on gb for less that 1.2k, and it was really in excellent condition other than the lug.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=424184059
Believe me, the upper alone is worth close to 2k as it was 98% with an almost new bore. Now, I have get the lower re-blued. But I have a concern. I have considered heating the lug with a propane torch and quenching with oil. Not too hot, just maybe around 600 deg. Any opinions about this would be much appreciated.

GreyHammer · 09-22-2014, 11:24 PM

..

John Sabato · 09-23-2014, 10:23 AM

And your purpose for the heating and quenching of the stock lug? Hardening? I don't think this is necessary. The stock lug doesn't get much abuse, and I imagine that it will last a very long time unless you are sure that the new lug is very soft steel... If that is the case, then hardening might be in order... and the temperature you mentioned should not cause any damage... but I would only do this as a last resort if you notice that wear on the lug is occuring.

What did it cost you for the machine work?

alanint · 09-23-2014, 12:01 PM

Also, keep in mind that if the gun had an original finish, you are going to want to rust, not salt blue the frame. Make sure the refinishing shop is familiar with the process.

lugerholsterrepair · 09-23-2014, 03:00 PM

John and Doug bring up very good points..Fire bluing this will not be correct and unless you are very careful you could risk some warping. Twisting of the frame that may affect mag insertion. I would send it out to have this portion spot rust blued. Do it right an save yourself trouble...Charles Danner has done some of this for me..he is fast & reasonable.

GreyHammer · 09-23-2014, 07:36 PM

Spoke with Charles Danner today regarding this frame. He also agrees that heat treating should not be done. The heating process itself will change the color of the lug area and the rust blue would likely be spotty. One concern I had was the attachment iron was able to form the lug as the iron was clearly harder steel. That is to say the initially, the iron was very tight and would not fit the lug. I tapped it on with a rubber mallet and the connection loosened up. I expected to have to use a Dremel tool to remove some material. I was surprised at how soft the lug seemed. However, CD said the he has had to file that area over the years, and it is typically soft, so now I am not going to worry about it.
The machine work on the lug cost me $525.00. There clearly needs to be more competition in this area, but this was my only option to get it done in a 3 month time frame. I am satisfied with the work done by Pistol Bill on GB. If I wanted the serial numbers to all match, this seems to be the only option. CD expected the rust bluing on the frame should cost about $75.00.
Oh, thanks everyone for your insights!

lugerholsterrepair · 09-23-2014, 07:45 PM

the work done by Pistol Bill on GB looks to be top notch. Work like this is not really spent money..it enhances the value of your pistol, preserves history,will make your pistol an easier sell when the time comes and you will be happier with it while you have it. Good job!

Ron Wood · 09-23-2014, 09:03 PM

Generally the stock iron is modified to fit the lug, not the other way around. The guns were finished products to which a stock was fitted. The slot in the stock iron sometimes needs to be relieved (deepened) a little bit to allow it to be fully connected to the lug. A Dremel tool can be used but a better tool is a riffler file.

sheepherder · 01-06-2015, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Wood

Generally the stock iron is modified to fit the lug, not the other way around. The guns were finished products to which a stock was fitted. The slot in the stock iron sometimes needs to be relieved (deepened) a little bit to allow it to be fully connected to the lug. A Dremel tool can be used but a better tool is a riffler file.

Ron, I have an attaching stock iron here that will go on about 3/4 of the way...The bottom of the attaching iron is about .010" narrower than the upper portion...

Which part of the iron do you file?

Ron Wood · 01-06-2015, 12:55 PM

Rich,
I have only had to file the bottom of the slot ("deepened it as I said in my post above). It would seem that the slot was deliberately not milled deeper than an "interference" fit so that it could be individually fitted to the gun if necessary. I have not encountered any attaching irons on which the slot was too narrow side to side, and the sides of the slot are generally parallel in my experience.
Ron

lugerholsterrepair · 01-06-2015, 01:17 PM

I have not encountered any attaching irons on which the slot was too narrow side to side

I just recently fitted an ODIN that was too narrow side to side at the bottom.

Ron Wood · 01-06-2015, 01:41 PM

Hmmm, I have an Odin stock that I haven't tried on a LP08 yet. I'll have to check it out..

lugerholsterrepair · 01-06-2015, 03:42 PM

Ron, I have had them fit well with no fitting too.

09-22-2014, 11:18 PM	#1
GreyHammer User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 34 Thanks: 66 Thanked 25 Times in 14 Posts	New lug for my 1916 Artillery Today in the mail my Luger frame was returned from the machinist with the once ground-off lug replaced. Broke out the stock and was very pleased with the result. This going to be a smashing addition to my collection. Because of the ground-off lug, I got this piece on gb for less that 1.2k, and it was really in excellent condition other than the lug. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=424184059 Believe me, the upper alone is worth close to 2k as it was 98% with an almost new bore. Now, I have get the lower re-blued. But I have a concern. I have considered heating the lug with a propane torch and quenching with oil. Not too hot, just maybe around 600 deg. Any opinions about this would be much appreciated.

09-22-2014, 11:24 PM	#2
GreyHammer User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 34 Thanks: 66 Thanked 25 Times in 14 Posts	attempt to upload photos .. Attached Images

09-23-2014, 10:23 AM	#3
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,155 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,308 Times in 1,098 Posts	And your purpose for the heating and quenching of the stock lug? Hardening? I don't think this is necessary. The stock lug doesn't get much abuse, and I imagine that it will last a very long time unless you are sure that the new lug is very soft steel... If that is the case, then hardening might be in order... and the temperature you mentioned should not cause any damage... but I would only do this as a last resort if you notice that wear on the lug is occuring. What did it cost you for the machine work? __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

09-23-2014, 03:00 PM	#5
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,775 Thanks: 4,995 Thanked 3,132 Times in 1,439 Posts	John and Doug bring up very good points..Fire bluing this will not be correct and unless you are very careful you could risk some warping. Twisting of the frame that may affect mag insertion. I would send it out to have this portion spot rust blued. Do it right an save yourself trouble...Charles Danner has done some of this for me..he is fast & reasonable. __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

09-23-2014, 07:45 PM	#7
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,775 Thanks: 4,995 Thanked 3,132 Times in 1,439 Posts	the work done by Pistol Bill on GB looks to be top notch. Work like this is not really spent money..it enhances the value of your pistol, preserves history,will make your pistol an easier sell when the time comes and you will be happier with it while you have it. Good job! __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

09-23-2014, 12:01 PM	#4
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,917 Times in 1,193 Posts	Also, keep in mind that if the gun had an original finish, you are going to want to rust, not salt blue the frame. Make sure the refinishing shop is familiar with the process.

09-23-2014, 07:36 PM	#6
GreyHammer User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 34 Thanks: 66 Thanked 25 Times in 14 Posts	Spoke with Charles Danner today regarding this frame. He also agrees that heat treating should not be done. The heating process itself will change the color of the lug area and the rust blue would likely be spotty. One concern I had was the attachment iron was able to form the lug as the iron was clearly harder steel. That is to say the initially, the iron was very tight and would not fit the lug. I tapped it on with a rubber mallet and the connection loosened up. I expected to have to use a Dremel tool to remove some material. I was surprised at how soft the lug seemed. However, CD said the he has had to file that area over the years, and it is typically soft, so now I am not going to worry about it. The machine work on the lug cost me $525.00. There clearly needs to be more competition in this area, but this was my only option to get it done in a 3 month time frame. I am satisfied with the work done by Pistol Bill on GB. If I wanted the serial numbers to all match, this seems to be the only option. CD expected the rust bluing on the frame should cost about $75.00. Oh, thanks everyone for your insights!

09-23-2014, 09:03 PM	#8
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,034 Thanks: 1,106 Thanked 5,239 Times in 1,718 Posts	Generally the stock iron is modified to fit the lug, not the other way around. The guns were finished products to which a stock was fitted. The slot in the stock iron sometimes needs to be relieved (deepened) a little bit to allow it to be fully connected to the lug. A Dremel tool can be used but a better tool is a riffler file. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

01-06-2015, 12:55 PM	#10
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,034 Thanks: 1,106 Thanked 5,239 Times in 1,718 Posts	Rich, I have only had to file the bottom of the slot ("deepened it as I said in my post above). It would seem that the slot was deliberately not milled deeper than an "interference" fit so that it could be individually fitted to the gun if necessary. I have not encountered any attaching irons on which the slot was too narrow side to side, and the sides of the slot are generally parallel in my experience. Ron __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

01-06-2015, 01:17 PM	#11
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,775 Thanks: 4,995 Thanked 3,132 Times in 1,439 Posts	I have not encountered any attaching irons on which the slot was too narrow side to side I just recently fitted an ODIN that was too narrow side to side at the bottom. __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

01-06-2015, 01:41 PM	#12
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,034 Thanks: 1,106 Thanked 5,239 Times in 1,718 Posts	Hmmm, I have an Odin stock that I haven't tried on a LP08 yet. I'll have to check it out.. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

01-06-2015, 03:42 PM	#13
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,775 Thanks: 4,995 Thanked 3,132 Times in 1,439 Posts	Ron, I have had them fit well with no fitting too. __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."