New lug for my 1916 Artillery
 

Today in the mail my Luger frame was returned from the machinist with the once ground-off lug replaced. Broke out the stock and was very pleased with the result. This going to be a smashing addition to my collection. Because of the ground-off lug, I got this piece on gb for less that 1.2k, and it was really in excellent condition other than the lug.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=424184059
Believe me, the upper alone is worth close to 2k as it was 98% with an almost new bore. Now, I have get the lower re-blued. But I have a concern. I have considered heating the lug with a propane torch and quenching with oil. Not too hot, just maybe around 600 deg. Any opinions about this would be much appreciated.

attempt to upload photos
 

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And your purpose for the heating and quenching of the stock lug? Hardening? I don't think this is necessary. The stock lug doesn't get much abuse, and I imagine that it will last a very long time unless you are sure that the new lug is very soft steel... If that is the case, then hardening might be in order... and the temperature you mentioned should not cause any damage... but I would only do this as a last resort if you notice that wear on the lug is occuring.

What did it cost you for the machine work?

Also, keep in mind that if the gun had an original finish, you are going to want to rust, not salt blue the frame. Make sure the refinishing shop is familiar with the process.

John and Doug bring up very good points..Fire bluing this will not be correct and unless you are very careful you could risk some warping. Twisting of the frame that may affect mag insertion. I would send it out to have this portion spot rust blued. Do it right an save yourself trouble...Charles Danner has done some of this for me..he is fast & reasonable.

Spoke with Charles Danner today regarding this frame. He also agrees that heat treating should not be done. The heating process itself will change the color of the lug area and the rust blue would likely be spotty. One concern I had was the attachment iron was able to form the lug as the iron was clearly harder steel. That is to say the initially, the iron was very tight and would not fit the lug. I tapped it on with a rubber mallet and the connection loosened up. I expected to have to use a Dremel tool to remove some material. I was surprised at how soft the lug seemed. However, CD said the he has had to file that area over the years, and it is typically soft, so now I am not going to worry about it.
The machine work on the lug cost me $525.00. There clearly needs to be more competition in this area, but this was my only option to get it done in a 3 month time frame. I am satisfied with the work done by Pistol Bill on GB. If I wanted the serial numbers to all match, this seems to be the only option. CD expected the rust bluing on the frame should cost about $75.00.
Oh, thanks everyone for your insights!

the work done by Pistol Bill on GB looks to be top notch. Work like this is not really spent money..it enhances the value of your pistol, preserves history,will make your pistol an easier sell when the time comes and you will be happier with it while you have it. Good job!

Generally the stock iron is modified to fit the lug, not the other way around. The guns were finished products to which a stock was fitted. The slot in the stock iron sometimes needs to be relieved (deepened) a little bit to allow it to be fully connected to the lug. A Dremel tool can be used but a better tool is a riffler file.

Ron, I have an attaching stock iron here that will go on about 3/4 of the way...The bottom of the attaching iron is about .010" narrower than the upper portion...

Which part of the iron do you file? :)

Rich,
I have only had to file the bottom of the slot ("deepened it as I said in my post above). It would seem that the slot was deliberately not milled deeper than an "interference" fit so that it could be individually fitted to the gun if necessary. I have not encountered any attaching irons on which the slot was too narrow side to side, and the sides of the slot are generally parallel in my experience.
Ron

I have not encountered any attaching irons on which the slot was too narrow side to side

I just recently fitted an ODIN that was too narrow side to side at the bottom.

Hmmm, I have an Odin stock that I haven't tried on a LP08 yet. I'll have to check it out..

Ron, I have had them fit well with no fitting too.