Question re the 1936 Mauser On Owner's Board

Bruce S. · 05-26-2001, 04:59 PM

I also have a "vet bring-back" 1936 Mauser, M series, E-63, serial # XX9, with all matching parts that I've registered to carry, despite the fact that it can't be fired as it is. (The barrel had some lead solder drizzled onto the end of the muzzle thirty years ago to discourage anyone from even thinking about using it, and I was told that the firing pin had been removed as well. From what I've read on this site over the last year, Lugers stored in their holsters are supposed to lose their appearance and value, but I think that mine has held up well even after nearly sixty years in the holster. From the last posting, I get the impression that the 1936 should not have a matching magazine...I've got two mags, both with E-63 markings, one of which has the matching serial number (minus the "M"). My questions are, I live near a gun parts supplier that has barrels and firing pins available, but should I risk firing it even if I replace the barrel and the original grips with reproductions? I was told by a local gunsmith that the solder on the tip of the barrel should not be big concern, since it won't be any more difficult to clean out than a misfired round. You men have taken the Luger to a higher level than anyone in my area...I've always vowed that SOMEDAY I'd fire this beauty, even if just a few times. Any thoughts?

G.T. · 05-26-2001, 05:25 PM

Hello Bruce! I think your 1936 would probably shape up quite well....One would have to make certain no other dewat conditions exsist and that all parts are present and in good firing condition.....There are several members who could assist you with this project, where are you located? Good luck on you new quest!!...Till...later...G.T.

SteveM · 05-26-2001, 10:08 PM

Bruce,

I should have rewritten the description; the mag is the proper mag for the pistol but it is mis-matched. These military pistols were issued with 2 magazines that were numbered to the gun. The spare mag will be denoted with

a "+" whereas magazine number 1 will not have this mark.

If it is a police pistol, the magazines were marked either number 1,2 or sometimes 3.

Hope this helps.

Steve

John Sabato · 05-27-2001, 09:29 AM

And very likely without replacing the barrel.

Use EXTREME CAUTION and practice safety if attempting this salvage of your barrel. (KIDDIES DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME UNLESS YOU ARE FAMILIAR WITH METALWORKING AND THE USE OF DRILLS AND PROPANE TORCHES)

Wear Protective goggles and appropriate precautions in the use of the propane torch - use gloves and old potholders when handling hot metal objects. If it is as you say, that SOLDER was used to plug the muzzle end of the barrel, you can salvage the original barrel yourself.

You can prove this by scraping off a piece the solder with a sharp instrument or create some chips of it by carefully drilling it with a drill bit that is much smaller than the bore. You can even do this drilling by hand instead of by machine... anything to get a piece of that plug loose for testing. Take that piece of solder that you get no matter how small and place it in an old (non-plated) spoon and heat the spoon from underneath with a propane torch. If the piece melts, it IS solder or some form of solder alloy and you can clear the obstruction from the barrel yourself.

The level of heat necessary to melt solder will not damage the strength of you barrel. Too much heat may discolor the finish of the bluing so use only what heat is necessary to accomplish your task. If your test is successful you can proceed to unplug your barrel.

First, field strip pistol and remove the toggle from the receiver... removal of the ejector is not necessary at this point. Then, the using a drill press and a padded vise to hold the receiver at the end of the barrel (you must be sure not to put pressure on the "forks" of the receiver with the breehblock removed), center drill through the obstruction with a drill much smaller than the bore size, perhaps a one-sixteenth inch drill. You should be able to see light through the barrel. slowly increast the size of the drill bit to perhaps a one-quarter inch and continue to enlarge the hole (WITHOUT TOUCHING THE BARREL!).

Once you have enlarged the hole to one-quarter inch, you can then apply heat to melt the rest of the solder plug. The purpose of drilling the center hole is to require less heat to melt the remaining solder.

I would suspend the barreled receiver muzzle down from a coat hanger, and prepare a cleaning rod with a patch that would be a snug but not a tight fit in the barrel if pushed all the way through. Perhaps you have another weapon such as another 9mm or a .38 revolver to test this.

When you are ready, apply the heat of the propane torch directly up the bore of the barrel until the solder runs out. When the solder stops running out grab the cleaning rod and force it through the barrel from the breech end to push out the balance of the solder sticking to the bore.

A long session with a metal bristle brush and bore cleaner that will remove lead fowling is now in order. I would even use #0000 steel wool gently as the last step.

Your barrel should now be in firing condition if there are no visible obstructions left when you are finished cleaning.

As to your firing pin, you can tell if it is present because in it's relaxed state when the toggle is removed from the receiver, it should be protruding from the face of the bolt. If the firing pin is not, then it may have been filed off to prevent firing. You can easily buy another firing pin from Tom Heller or one of the other dealers mentioned in the Links & Resources. Use the disassebly instructions on this sight to determine if you have all the firing pin components.

With all that said, if your attempt to drill out the obstruction detemines that it is NOT SOLDER, but is instead WELDED, you are SCREWED and only have to choices to restore the gun to firing condition. You can send the gun to MENTOR ARMS in Mentor Ohio and have them rebore and reline the barrel OR you can have the barrel replaced by Hugh Clark. The first method will leave the matching serial numbered barrel, the second will just make it shootable with a new barrel - your choice.

Lastly, if you are not comfortable enough with you skills to perform these mechanical feats, then take it to a competent gunsmith... Your Luger will shoot again!

Feel free to contact me directly if you need further advice or assistance.

-John

Bruce S. · 05-27-2001, 06:49 PM

Steve,

One of my mags has the matching serial, and under it is a "t" with a sort of "curlicue" under it, and under that is a "+" sign, and under that is the E-63 emblem. (There is a "stray "7" to the lower right, above the "t", etc.)

The other mag bears a four digit number, none of which is close to my serial number, under which are the "+" and E-63.

I'd always thought that the mag bearing the same serial number, which was stored in the holster's spare mag compaartment, was an original.

Thanks for your input!

Bruce

05-26-2001, 04:59 PM	#1
Bruce S. New User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Question re the 1936 Mauser On Owner's Board I also have a "vet bring-back" 1936 Mauser, M series, E-63, serial # XX9, with all matching parts that I've registered to carry, despite the fact that it can't be fired as it is. (The barrel had some lead solder drizzled onto the end of the muzzle thirty years ago to discourage anyone from even thinking about using it, and I was told that the firing pin had been removed as well. From what I've read on this site over the last year, Lugers stored in their holsters are supposed to lose their appearance and value, but I think that mine has held up well even after nearly sixty years in the holster. From the last posting, I get the impression that the 1936 should not have a matching magazine...I've got two mags, both with E-63 markings, one of which has the matching serial number (minus the "M"). My questions are, I live near a gun parts supplier that has barrels and firing pins available, but should I risk firing it even if I replace the barrel and the original grips with reproductions? I was told by a local gunsmith that the solder on the tip of the barrel should not be big concern, since it won't be any more difficult to clean out than a misfired round. You men have taken the Luger to a higher level than anyone in my area...I've always vowed that SOMEDAY I'd fire this beauty, even if just a few times. Any thoughts?

05-26-2001, 05:25 PM	#2
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,541 Thanks: 1,342 Thanked 3,742 Times in 1,020 Posts	I should think.....Easily restorable to firing condition! Hello Bruce! I think your 1936 would probably shape up quite well....One would have to make certain no other dewat conditions exsist and that all parts are present and in good firing condition.....There are several members who could assist you with this project, where are you located? Good luck on you new quest!!...Till...later...G.T.

05-26-2001, 10:08 PM	#3
SteveM User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 1,016 Thanks: 94 Thanked 275 Times in 137 Posts	Re: Question re the 1936 Mauser On Owner's Board Bruce, I should have rewritten the description; the mag is the proper mag for the pistol but it is mis-matched. These military pistols were issued with 2 magazines that were numbered to the gun. The spare mag will be denoted with a "+" whereas magazine number 1 will not have this mark. If it is a police pistol, the magazines were marked either number 1,2 or sometimes 3. Hope this helps. Steve

05-27-2001, 09:29 AM	#4
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,156 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,309 Times in 1,098 Posts	Bruce, your Luger CAN be restored to firing condition! (LONG) And very likely without replacing the barrel. Use EXTREME CAUTION and practice safety if attempting this salvage of your barrel. (KIDDIES DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME UNLESS YOU ARE FAMILIAR WITH METALWORKING AND THE USE OF DRILLS AND PROPANE TORCHES) Wear Protective goggles and appropriate precautions in the use of the propane torch - use gloves and old potholders when handling hot metal objects. If it is as you say, that SOLDER was used to plug the muzzle end of the barrel, you can salvage the original barrel yourself. You can prove this by scraping off a piece the solder with a sharp instrument or create some chips of it by carefully drilling it with a drill bit that is much smaller than the bore. You can even do this drilling by hand instead of by machine... anything to get a piece of that plug loose for testing. Take that piece of solder that you get no matter how small and place it in an old (non-plated) spoon and heat the spoon from underneath with a propane torch. If the piece melts, it IS solder or some form of solder alloy and you can clear the obstruction from the barrel yourself. The level of heat necessary to melt solder will not damage the strength of you barrel. Too much heat may discolor the finish of the bluing so use only what heat is necessary to accomplish your task. If your test is successful you can proceed to unplug your barrel. First, field strip pistol and remove the toggle from the receiver... removal of the ejector is not necessary at this point. Then, the using a drill press and a padded vise to hold the receiver at the end of the barrel (you must be sure not to put pressure on the "forks" of the receiver with the breehblock removed), center drill through the obstruction with a drill much smaller than the bore size, perhaps a one-sixteenth inch drill. You should be able to see light through the barrel. slowly increast the size of the drill bit to perhaps a one-quarter inch and continue to enlarge the hole (WITHOUT TOUCHING THE BARREL!). Once you have enlarged the hole to one-quarter inch, you can then apply heat to melt the rest of the solder plug. The purpose of drilling the center hole is to require less heat to melt the remaining solder. I would suspend the barreled receiver muzzle down from a coat hanger, and prepare a cleaning rod with a patch that would be a snug but not a tight fit in the barrel if pushed all the way through. Perhaps you have another weapon such as another 9mm or a .38 revolver to test this. When you are ready, apply the heat of the propane torch directly up the bore of the barrel until the solder runs out. When the solder stops running out grab the cleaning rod and force it through the barrel from the breech end to push out the balance of the solder sticking to the bore. A long session with a metal bristle brush and bore cleaner that will remove lead fowling is now in order. I would even use #0000 steel wool gently as the last step. Your barrel should now be in firing condition if there are no visible obstructions left when you are finished cleaning. As to your firing pin, you can tell if it is present because in it's relaxed state when the toggle is removed from the receiver, it should be protruding from the face of the bolt. If the firing pin is not, then it may have been filed off to prevent firing. You can easily buy another firing pin from Tom Heller or one of the other dealers mentioned in the Links & Resources. Use the disassebly instructions on this sight to determine if you have all the firing pin components. With all that said, if your attempt to drill out the obstruction detemines that it is NOT SOLDER, but is instead WELDED, you are SCREWED and only have to choices to restore the gun to firing condition. You can send the gun to MENTOR ARMS in Mentor Ohio and have them rebore and reline the barrel OR you can have the barrel replaced by Hugh Clark. The first method will leave the matching serial numbered barrel, the second will just make it shootable with a new barrel - your choice. Lastly, if you are not comfortable enough with you skills to perform these mechanical feats, then take it to a competent gunsmith... Your Luger will shoot again! Feel free to contact me directly if you need further advice or assistance. -John

05-27-2001, 06:49 PM	#5
Bruce S. New User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Question re the 1936 Mauser On Owner's Board Steve, One of my mags has the matching serial, and under it is a "t" with a sort of "curlicue" under it, and under that is a "+" sign, and under that is the E-63 emblem. (There is a "stray "7" to the lower right, above the "t", etc.) The other mag bears a four digit number, none of which is close to my serial number, under which are the "+" and E-63. I'd always thought that the mag bearing the same serial number, which was stored in the holster's spare mag compaartment, was an original. Thanks for your input! Bruce