Another One II and a Question

[AGE]

Police model experts,

I took my Frankenluger that Dwight tried to identify shooting again today (Monday). The gun worked perfectly (maybe) for another 50 rounds of Wallymart ammo. I had drifted the front sight over so zero is now almost perfect.

Now the question. Two or three times on follow up shots (not the first one in a string) the gun wouldn't fire until I released the trigger and squeezed it again. Is there something odd about these guns (with the sear safety) requiring conscious release of the trigger after firing before another shot can be fired? I can't recall ever having this occur when firing any other semi-automatic including Colts, Rugers, S&Ws, 2 other Lugers, P-38, AR-15, Mini-14, M-1 Carbine, M-1, etc. perhaps 100,000 rounds over the last 50 years.

The trigger on Frankenluger is pretty light. Maybe the return spring just isn't heavy enough to nudge the finger back during recoil. Anybody have any ideas???

[John Sabato]

Al,

While the trigger return spring on this particular gun may be lighter than the others you have tried, mechanically, it is an absolute necessity for the trigger to be released at least far enough for the disconnector to properly function so the sear will be engaged so you can fire the next shot. This is true of all semiautos...including all those you listed. If this were not the case, then the pistol would not be a semi-automatic, but a full automatic, firing until the trigger were released.

Perhaps your disconnector plunger on the sear bar needs a thorough cleaning and lubrication?

[AGE]

John,

Thanks, I never shot a full automatic but I realize they fire as long as you hold the trigger and the ammo lasts. I'll clean and lube the plunger on the sear bar as soon as I can make time. I've never experienced this problem on any other gun and that's why I questioned the gun and the sear safety. When shooting (any gun) multiple shots, it seems that I seldom have to consciously release the trigger between shots, except perhaps on a double action revolver.

Anyway, the gun works fine otherwise and this is probably my fault. (I'll still clean and lube the plunger.)

[Lugerdoc]

As previously stated, your problem could be a sticky trigger bar plunger (disconnector) or it could be a weak trigger spring or the trigger lever in the side plate may need some adjustment. Tom H.

[AGE]

Tom,

Thanks for your comment. I'll try the plunger cleaning and lube first. Do you have any specific sideplate trigger lever instructions? Do you mean the area where the lever contacts the trigger or where it contacts the plunger?

[AGE]

John and Tom,

The sear plunger is clean, lubed, and moves smoothly. Also, the trigger return spring isn't real light (even though trigger pull is excellent). Can you give me anything specific on the side plate trigger lever adjustment?

[John Sabato]

Unless you are a gunsmith with the ability to add metal by welding and then reshaping the lever, If you only have one trigger lever, your possible adjustments are limited to removal of metal that is not necessary... This may not be your problem... Unless I am mistaken, I think what Tom Heller is implying by adjustment is trial and error testing of several levers to find one that fits best.

OTOH, Check for burrs on the 3 flat lever surfaces that engage the disconnector and the trigger. There should be a smooth bevel on the leading edge of the top of the lever that allows the disconnector to slip under the lever when the trigger is not taken up.

Does the lever in the sideplate appear to have received some post-manufacture grinding (like an amateur attempt by a previous owner to modify the trigger pull?)

The three flat surfaces on the trigger lever each serve a specific purpose, as does the bevel on the leading edge that faces the disconnector during the firing cycle. all of these surfaces should be smooth, clean and lubricated.

[Ron Wood]

You have a Luger that shoots well, has a good trigger pull and functions as it was designed to do. Unless you happen upon one of those rare Lugers which has just the right tolerences for everthing to function perfectly (and I have never owned one), there is going to be some trigger overtravel that must be let off in order for the disconnector to work. How much overtravel varies greatly. Since this is a shooter, you might want to consider installing a trigger stop screw. I seem to recall Hugh posting some instructions once upon a time in this forum on how to go about this modification. I would be really reluctant to try to modify the trigger lever, it is just too finicky an adjustment.

A post script: I just found jpegs of three pages from a 1974 issue of Shooting Times with detailed instructions for trigger pull adjustment. Maybe that is what I remember. Each of the jpeg images is over 700Kb and I am not sure what copyright restrictions apply so I don't know if I should post them in the Member Gallery or not. Opinions?

[AGE]

Ron, John, and Tom,

I'll shoot the gun a lot more before I mess with the sideplate levers. Everything looks good inside the sideplate--smooth bevels on the lever, no burrs, etc.

I even remember the trigger modification to add the overtravel stop discussed on the forum (probably the old forum last spring). There is not a lot of trigger overtravel in this gun after it fires. I'll just shoot it more and see how it goes.