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Unread 04-02-2012, 08:14 PM   #1
LugerDevil
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Default Luger Space Gun

Hi, For those of you who are not know this term it comes from one of the early High Standard .22 LR target pistols because of the target barrels futuristic profile.In the Luger book The Luger Pistol by Fred A.Datig on page 152 in a photo of what I consider a 'space gun'. I have a Luger that I'd like to get an extension and other parts to build a .22LR top end for. What I'd like to ask is what would an upper for something like this go for and what part besides the barrel extension to pull this off and are the parts something that could be had very easy or could a centerfire toggle be modifed for this mod. Any help would be gladly welcome. Thanks
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Unread 04-02-2012, 09:12 PM   #2
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Welcome to the Forum. That is a very complicated job. It would take someone who is a very good machinist. I have one that a very talented gunsmith built from a 1900 American Eagle. I am not knowledgeable enough to explain all that is involved. But it was a lot of work. Perhaps you possess this talent Good luck. Somewhere on the forum are pictures of my 22. Will try and locate them.. Bill
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Unread 04-02-2012, 09:47 PM   #3
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Look under Commercial Lugers 2/28/2008 Entitled 1900 AE 22 Bill
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Unread 04-02-2012, 10:04 PM   #4
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Default bill, please notice the commercial section below says "no posts"

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Unread 04-02-2012, 11:41 PM   #5
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I was talking about the Commercial luger Discussion Forum in the main index, then to 2/28/08 listed as 1900 AE 22. Easier to use Ricks above. I just got there both ways. Bill
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Unread 04-03-2012, 10:52 AM   #6
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After reading the OP's original request, I think he actually looking for a .22 conversion kit. These kits are available, but they are all collectibles... so they won't be cheap. The last one I saw for sale was between $600 to $1000 for the complete kit. These conversion kits contain all that is necessary to fire .22LR in a standard 9mm Luger. The consist of a replacement rimfire toggle assembly, an insert barrel and a magazine. No permanent modification of the standard Luger is necessary.

If you prefer a more permanent solution, all you need to find is the toggle and magazine and any competent gunsmith that can barrel a Luger can built a .22 caliber barrel to work with these parts. Still a very expensive solution, and you don't end up with anything collectible. If all you want to do is shoot .22's from a gun with the same grip angle, I would recommend you spend your money on an original Ruger .22 semi-auto... they are loads of fun, and would be much less expensive than converting a Luger to that caliber.


here is a link to an album on this site that shows the .22 caliber components.

http://forum.lugerforum.com/album.php?albumid=375
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Unread 04-03-2012, 12:11 PM   #7
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I found a post-war Erma kit at an obscure online auction and scored it for $325, and I just ordered replacement springs for it from Sarco. It is installed in a 70's Mauser 9mm, the 6" 29/70 Swiss frame. I needed to create a new, shorter adapter sleeve which, once blued, fits right in with the rest of the pistol and kit. No original parts were modified in the process, so everything is as "collectible" as it ever was.

I'd go with John on this. If you want the modified original Luger, get ready to do a lot of work, or pay some substantial dough. The problem of center fire v. rim fire must be overcome, either with a rim fire modified breech block or, as was posted here a week or two ago, install a bbl. that offsets the round on the firing pin--that was a weird looking gun indeed, but still used the rest of the original upper and the main spring.

For a .22 " Luger", I'm playing around with the Erma guns from the 60's. They are cranky little jobs, but most satisfying to shoot when they are working right, maintaining a Luger's weight, balance, and grip angle--about as Luger-esque as you can get in a dedicated .22. And they are economical, even if the round they turn out to like is pricey, it's still a .22 , way less than 9mm and way, way less than .30 Luger retail. You can find these guns for $125~$300. Frames on many models are diecast, abhorred by some, and perhaps destined to wear out early and maybe break a front toggle, but I've found them a fun challenge to work with, lots of practice clearing jams, misfeeds, misfires, etc!

Hope this helps...
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