Broomhandle problems

[Fazer]

I'm hoping to get an answer to a problem I have. I recently had some C-96's that belonged to my father sent to me in Australia from the US. I had an import permit from the Dept Of Defence here, so I thought all would be right.

Anyway Australian Customs has seized the pistols deeming them unsafe for import. Their reason is that they don't pass the "drop hammer test". By that they mean, if you let the hammer slip from your thumb, before it is fully cocked, it could hit the firing pin with enough force to set off a round.

I realise that if the safety is on, the hammer is blocked, and the floating firing pin makes it harder. But their first remedy was to weld up the guns. I won't let that happen. I tried the removing the firing pin option, explaining they weren't for use, even had the represenitives from the State's Firearms and Licensing Dept. fighting my fight, but no good.

So what I have to do is come up with a solution to the problem. Would this work. If I took a spare hammer and machined in a slot in the arch to catch the sear, like a half cocked. That way if you did slip on the hammer, it would stop on the half cocked position.

It's not illegal to own them, I all ready have a couple, only to import them. I grew up witht them and really don't want to loose them. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks............Chip

[alvin]

Originally Posted by Fazer

So what I have to do is come up with a solution to the problem. Would this work. If I took a spare hammer and machined in a slot in the arch to catch the sear, like a half cocked. That way if you did slip on the hammer, it would stop on the half cocked position.

Cutting a notch from an existing hammer won't work, because sear won't catch it. A little bit steel has to be added to the hammer to make the profile bigger at appropiate position and then mill a new notch on it. Or making a new customized hammer from scratch.

But that's technical. Since the problem that you are facing is political -- did they say that they would accept this "solution"?

[alvin]

I have a simpler way. Find another hammer, drill a half-through hole on the hammer at the position that facing the firing pin, so it's deactivated. Keep the original hammer. Of course, if they don't like it, it's void.

[Fazer]

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, their only idea of deactivating is to weld them up.

I think I've located a couple hammers. Alvin you mentioned that A little bit steel has to be added to the hammer to make the profile bigger at appropriate position and then mill a new notch on it.

Any idea how much of a plate needs to be added, and would the hammer go past this back to the fired position when you dropped the hammer.

If I can't get something sorted mechanically, my only option left is to see my Federal Member of Parliament and ask them to try to get me special dispensation from the Customs Minister. As you know, once you mention firearms, most politicians shut up shop.

If I can get two to pass, I can get them home, take out the hammers and put them into the remaining two.

Thanks again......Chip

[alvin]

A square bar shaped "ridge" can be welded to the hammer disc to achive half-cocking effect. The position of this bar can be decided this way: strip one of your good gun, replace the hammer with the "project hammer", put main spring, coupling, and sear back, hold the lock frame, raise the sear manually to release the hammer, then push the safety level up, and lower the sear to its normal lower position. Now you will notice the position of the hammer disc directly under the back edge of the sear, mark that position on the hammer disc. You will also notice that position on hammer disc is about 2m/m lower than the sear edge.

Cut the sqare bar length to the width of the hammer, the height of the square bar is 2m/m, the width is not very important, but for welding stability, it cannot be too narrow, say at least 1m/m (?). Weld it to the marked position on the hammer disc. I am sure this new 2m/m "ridge" on the hammer disc is too high. You have to file it down manually little by little to achieve half-cocking effect. But three things must be observed

(1) The top of this new "ridge" should not go out of the lock frame. Otherwise, it interferes with receiver movement;
(2) When you push the trigger to release the cocked hammer, this ridge will not block the hammer; and
(3) Of course, it must achieve conventional half-cocking effect.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

[Fazer]

Alvin thanks for the information. I've still got a few weeks away from home, but I'll put obtaining the hammers in motion. Just want to be sure I understand what your saying. I would mount the piece of bar to the right of the "b" in the picture. My main concern was if it would clear the sear. Tahnks again.....Chip

[alvin]

"b" is too close to the normal hammer locking edge. If the new locking edge is added at b, the purpose of half-cocking is lost.

I would think it's much better to add it to the hammer disc under the sear when safety level is on (and hammer down). The hammer head will be locked 3-4m/m away from the firing pin when it's half cocked. Marked by red line in the pix.

Locking/clearence of the newly added locking edge must be manually adjusted by filing.

[Lugerdoc]

I doubt that your DoD folks will "buy" this solution, as it's too easily reversible by just changing hammers. Why not sell them to us here in the USA and then you keep keep what money your gready politians don't tax. Tom PS: I do have spare hammers available @$30 each + S&H

[Fazer]

Thanks for that gentlemen. I think I found a couple hammers in Australia. I've still got a few weeks here in Thailand before I go home. I should have the hammers by then. I was thinking that I would epoxy the bar to the hammer at first. This should be strong enough to test it out and if it's in the wrong position or wrong shape I can knock it off and start again. After I get it set and working, I'll get it welded on.
It's a funny situation with the law. I can have the regular set up in normal situations. I just need these modifications to get them released from Customs. All they care about is if it meets certain criteria, then they wash their hands of them. After that happens I can put the original hammers back in.......Chip