replacement grips

SIGP2101 · 11-16-2006, 03:08 PM

Hi all,

I got replacement grips for my shooter that has original grips in good condition. New ones are much coarser checkering and thicker and heavier oak wood. As all repro grips they do not fit well. Does anyone have advice on how to go around fitting her myself? I have experience in working with wood, but in this case I would like to know what tools to use to turn my first try into success. Any other useful advice.

Thanks

Hugh · 11-16-2006, 11:03 PM

If you are just trying to fit them, it is trial and error. Try a panel and see where it needs wood removed, and then take a little off and try again, repeat until it fits. I use 4" & 6" coarse files from Brownells and Midway. Start at the top and examine the frame and grip panel closely to get a thorough understanding of how the grip fits into and onto the frame. You can compare the new grips to the originals to see where the new ones need to be altered.

Lugerdoc · 11-17-2006, 10:23 AM

Sig, Generally they only need fitting at the bottom, but there are exceptions that even when shortened, the insides must be fitted to the frame. TH

Major Tom · 05-08-2017, 06:12 AM

I used Dremel sanding drums to remove most of the wood. On my grips, where the safety mechanism is need the most relief so that the lever would function OK. It took me hours to do the job. I also had to relieve the porting at the top of the grips that slide under and into the frame. Be careful there! Also had to enlarge the area where the grip screws seat. I used Dremel router bits.

Puretexan · 05-28-2017, 08:53 AM

I won a bid on ebay, and got a pair of the diamond ones for $20 shipped. They drove me crazy trying the get the safety to not come on when I put that side on. I have a
small mill and those bits will take off very small amounts of wood.I kept focusing
on the safety and never noticed the ridge at the top needed a slot so it wouldn't
push the safety on. Well once I had them fit , they looked totally gaudy. I did buy
another set of the regular checkered ones for $23 from the same place. I first cut that edge off so it didn't push the safety on. Also the blocks they glue on to keep
them from sliding around on the gun are too thick and rub on the magazine. A
cheap harbor freight bench belt sander will take them down it a flash. Lastly when
they fit you notice they are way thicker on the edge than a stock grip. You can thin
them down with the same sander, using the round part on the belt sander. It takes
a while to do a set, but in the end you feel like a German gunsmith, working somewhere in a factory ,hand fitting grips for a living. Good luck

stg44fan · 05-28-2017, 01:57 PM

I picked up new grips recently also. From Interarms in Texas. I just took off a little bit of material and test fit every now and then. I used an assortment of files and some 150 grit sand paper sparingly. The inside of the grips is where it got tricky. Especially by the mag release spring. Had to open up that channel quite a bit. I think they turned out pretty good for my first luger grip install.

11-16-2006, 03:08 PM	#1
SIGP2101 User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Canada Posts: 256 Thanks: 74 Thanked 67 Times in 32 Posts	replacement grips Hi all, I got replacement grips for my shooter that has original grips in good condition. New ones are much coarser checkering and thicker and heavier oak wood. As all repro grips they do not fit well. Does anyone have advice on how to go around fitting her myself? I have experience in working with wood, but in this case I would like to know what tools to use to turn my first try into success. Any other useful advice. Thanks Last edited by SIGP2101; 05-31-2017 at 12:20 PM.

11-16-2006, 11:03 PM	#2
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	If you are just trying to fit them, it is trial and error. Try a panel and see where it needs wood removed, and then take a little off and try again, repeat until it fits. I use 4" & 6" coarse files from Brownells and Midway. Start at the top and examine the frame and grip panel closely to get a thorough understanding of how the grip fits into and onto the frame. You can compare the new grips to the originals to see where the new ones need to be altered. __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

11-17-2006, 10:23 AM	#3
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	Sig, Generally they only need fitting at the bottom, but there are exceptions that even when shortened, the insides must be fitted to the frame. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

05-08-2017, 06:12 AM	#4
Major Tom User Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: S.E. Iowa Posts: 483 Thanks: 532 Thanked 227 Times in 124 Posts	I used Dremel sanding drums to remove most of the wood. On my grips, where the safety mechanism is need the most relief so that the lever would function OK. It took me hours to do the job. I also had to relieve the porting at the top of the grips that slide under and into the frame. Be careful there! Also had to enlarge the area where the grip screws seat. I used Dremel router bits. __________________ I Build Custom Pistol Boxes

05-28-2017, 08:53 AM	#5
Puretexan User Join Date: May 2017 Location: Pearland Texas Posts: 176 Thanks: 11 Thanked 70 Times in 36 Posts	I won a bid on ebay, and got a pair of the diamond ones for $20 shipped. They drove me crazy trying the get the safety to not come on when I put that side on. I have a small mill and those bits will take off very small amounts of wood.I kept focusing on the safety and never noticed the ridge at the top needed a slot so it wouldn't push the safety on. Well once I had them fit , they looked totally gaudy. I did buy another set of the regular checkered ones for $23 from the same place. I first cut that edge off so it didn't push the safety on. Also the blocks they glue on to keep them from sliding around on the gun are too thick and rub on the magazine. A cheap harbor freight bench belt sander will take them down it a flash. Lastly when they fit you notice they are way thicker on the edge than a stock grip. You can thin them down with the same sander, using the round part on the belt sander. It takes a while to do a set, but in the end you feel like a German gunsmith, working somewhere in a factory ,hand fitting grips for a living. Good luck Last edited by Puretexan; 05-28-2017 at 03:10 PM.

05-28-2017, 01:57 PM	#6
stg44fan User Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Portland OR Posts: 81 Thanks: 42 Thanked 49 Times in 27 Posts	I picked up new grips recently also. From Interarms in Texas. I just took off a little bit of material and test fit every now and then. I used an assortment of files and some 150 grit sand paper sparingly. The inside of the grips is where it got tricky. Especially by the mag release spring. Had to open up that channel quite a bit. I think they turned out pretty good for my first luger grip install.