my profile |
register |
faq |
search upload photo | donate | calendar |
09-12-2005, 11:33 AM | #1 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 29
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
'Whiting' of proofs and markings
So having cleaned up my 1916 DWM piece, what is used to highlight the proofs and DWM logo? Or is this something generally done only during a 'complete make over' and I should not screw up a matched piece by attempting on my own?
Thanks, tony |
09-12-2005, 11:44 AM | #2 |
RIP
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Dc 'burbs in Virginia
Posts: 2,482
Thanks: 0
Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts
|
Hi Tony,
The whitening is done by using a product called Laquerstik or a white grease pencil/china marker. There are no particular protocols concerning doing it; some folks like the look and it enhances B&W photography. I always remove the stuff with some Hoppes #9 when I put a piece up FS so that the prospective buyer can examine the gun easier. Tom A. |
09-12-2005, 12:07 PM | #3 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: The USA
Posts: 5,919
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
|
Hi Tony,
Here is the Laquer Stick product that Brownells' sells : http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...ACQUER-STIK%7e The "gesichert" on your 1916 P-08 would have factory enamel applied into the letters. This usually ages to a yellowish color and begins to flake off. You should typically not try to remove this enamel as it is one indication of a gun's original finish condition. |
09-12-2005, 01:56 PM | #4 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 29
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Well that seems easy, especially if some solvent will take it off later.
No signs of any factory enamel on any of the letters currently, so don't have to worry about. thanks for the tips. tony |
09-12-2005, 08:06 PM | #5 |
RIP
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Dc 'burbs in Virginia
Posts: 2,482
Thanks: 0
Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts
|
When applying it, first clean (as in degrease) the area with acetone and then warm it with a hair dryer. It will take the laquer stick easier that way. Then, pop it into the fridge to solidify and make the overrun brittle. After 30 mins or so, a quick swipe with a cleaning patch 8slightly* moisened in Hoppe's will remove the excess from surrounding metal.
Tom A |
09-12-2005, 08:19 PM | #6 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 228
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Word: DON'T try to remove any excess with a razor blade. You needn't ask how I know.
Jack
__________________
Jack Hiles Mesa AZ |
09-14-2005, 08:58 AM | #7 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 29
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Chinamarker try
Was able to get ahold of a white china marker from the local bookstore so tried that out first.
Pleased with the results, except it didn't really work well for the "gesichert" of the safety. Guessing the marks are not as 'sharp' there so not as much of the marker material fills in there. Some pics of the results: http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/tony1.jpg http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/tony2.jpg http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/tony3.jpg http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/tony4.jpg http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/tony5.jpg http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/tony6.jpg |
09-14-2005, 01:17 PM | #8 |
User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Malta
Posts: 570
Thanks: 74
Thanked 12 Times in 12 Posts
|
When I need to photograph one of my Lugers I just fill the proofs mark with chalk,which after I finish it could be brushed off and cleaned with some gun oil.
Alfred
__________________
I prefer a Luger |
|
|