Off Topic Restoration

[Ted]

I am going to redoing a Broomhandle for a fellow here locally! The guy tells me it is in bad shape except the bore is great. I told him the barrel MIGHT be religned. I am interested in know what the variation of this weapon is and what the proper finish, fireblued parts, strawed parts (if any) and am contacting Tom Heller and CMR (reproductions) for grip replacements as this gun is supposedly really bad off. Any help will be appreciated! Ted

[John Sabato]

Ted, if the barrel is relined, this is sometime done by silversoldering the liner in. Rust blue is the only way to go because if memory serves me correctly, salt blue will destroy the silversolder bond of the liner to the old barrel.


Can help you with the straw parts since I have never been able to afford to buy a C96 whenever I found one. And when I thought I could afford one, there was never one around that looked like it needed me bad enough.


-John


PS - check you bhinc mail.

[Kyrie]

Hi Ted!


Here are a couple of URLs to get you started:


http://www.northwest-denture.com/mauser1896/index.htm

http://www.recguns.com/IIIC2m1.html


In regard straw, C96â??s had none. The trigger, safety, extractor, and bolt stop were fire blued but I strongly recommended that you not try and duplicate the color on these parts if the pistol is ever to be used. The fire blue is a by-product of the heat treatment process, and a correct heat treatment is critical on these parts. In that same vein, the mechanical restoration of C96â??s is even more an art form that the like restoration of Lugers. If you should be considering becoming involved in this, you might want to pack a big lunch


Best regards,


Kyrie

[Ted]

Thank you sir!! Just what I needed! When I get the weapon in hand I will have pics to go along with info to identify it! Much apprecited! Ted

In addition to the parts mentioned by Kyrie, the rear sight slider & button were fire blued on pre 1930 brooms. After that all parts were salt blued.

[Kyrie]

Thanks Tom - I'd forgotten about those. The say memory is the second thing to go... [wry smile]


Best regards,


Kyrie

[Ted]

Where do I learn the correct heat treatment of the fire blued parts! I am very interested in learning! Ted

Ted,


The "fire blue", "heat blues", or "temper blues" are often confused with Nitre Blue. The proper way to go about the process, as it will provide durability. Simply heating the component to achieve color will not result in a really satisfactory job. Brownells catalog has everything you need. Their salts will give excellent "straw" also.

[Ted]

I have those salts and I have never liked the results! And I have tried LOTS of times! Ted

Ted,


I have used them for about 5-6 years with excellent results; right from the "git-go". The only other method is the simple heat application, and offers no durability. However, you can maximize the durability of the heating method by placing the part on something like an electric stove burner, at low heat, letting it "cook" slowly, while watching the color changes. when the part reaches a satisfactory color; just quench in a light oil.

[Johnny Peppers]

Some of the pistols in the conehammer range had strawed triggers. While this might not be correct for a later pistol, it would be an example of a finish used by Mauser at one time.

[RET]

Hello Ted,


I was reluctant to respond before with this information (or misinformation, as the case may be, as I still can't recall the source of it.)


Anyway, I believe that the whitish bits and pieces on the Broomhandles are treated with a cyanide compound to get the texture and finish. Be real careful if your try this at home...


Regards,


Bob

[Johnny Peppers]

Colt used cyanide in the heat treatment of it's pre WWII magazines. The magazines were originally heat treated prior to being blued, but the heat of the blueing removed the proper temper. The magazines had approximately the top 1" or so immersed in a 1450 degree cyanide solution and then quenched in oil to retemper them. This removed the blue and left the re-tempered part of the magazines bright.

[G.T.]

I have wondered how and why that was done, what about the heat treat of WW2 and post war mag's, I have seen some Mauser P.38 Mag's show the same traits.....till..later..G.T.

[Ted]

This is just a shooter I am redoing, I will rust blue the

weapon and restock. I dont plan on getting into Mausers Broomies that much. I wont be messing around with the poison stuff! I love my family to much and want to be around a few more years to work on Lugers. Ted

[Ted]

WOW, just finished Kyrie's Treatise on Broomies, more pitfalls and danger signs than I can believe. I think I will leave this one up to the experts. I don't want to get anybody hurt. See Kyries recent posting and URL on them.

They are replete with aging problems. I think I dont need a new set of teeth but after firing an older broomie, I MIGHT! I will stick to Lugers, they are more forgiving. Ted

[Johnny Peppers]

GT, the pre WWII magazines were oven blued, and the extreme heat required to blue the magazines removed the temper. This process was changed in WWII to either Du-Lite blue or Pentrate blue which use a much lower temperature process.

[G.T.]