1916 DWM at the Range

martowski · 06-10-2018, 04:15 PM

The first time out with a new milsurp acquisition is always a bit of fun. Today, I was able to run some ammo through a 1916 DWM that I picked up last month. I am happy to report that it fed and cycled perfectly. The only small hitch is that, every once in awhile, a full trigger squeeze doesn't release the striker. I will squeeze, nothing happens, but when I release and squeeze again it works. Only happened a couple times in about 50 rounds today.

The small sights and mushy trigger a a bit limiting to accurate shootinh, but the pistol itself is very accurate. Here's one 8 shot group offend from 50 ft.

Anyway, had a blast shooting this and plan to continue much in the future . If anyone has any ideas on what might be causing the intermittent trigger issue I'd be interested for your insight.

HerrKaiser · 06-10-2018, 04:31 PM

Is that a DWM military or commercial? I don’t see any of the numbering on the side typical of military guns. That said, today I took out my mismatched 1937 Mauser on the range and had a blast as well. Enjoy!

martowski · 06-10-2018, 09:31 PM

It's a 1916 military, with the 1920 acceptance stamp.

4 Scale · 06-10-2018, 11:17 PM

On your trigger issue I'd start by checking the operation of the sear plunger, verifying that its movement is free and correct. If it's sticking or otherwise not operating properly a search of the two Luger forums will reveal several ways to fix it.

If that is not the culprit please report back, and more detailed troubleshooting should reveal the problem. Trigger/sear issues are not uncommon but are often easy to fix.

kurusu · 06-11-2018, 03:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4 Scale

On your trigger issue I'd start by checking the operation of the sear plunger, verifying that its movement is free and correct. If it's sticking or otherwise not operating properly a search of the two Luger forums will reveal several ways to fix it.

If that is not the culprit please report back, and more detailed troubleshooting should reveal the problem. Trigger/sear issues are not uncommon but are often easy to fix.

Could also be a weak trigger return spring.

rhuff · 06-11-2018, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kurusu

Could also be a weak trigger return spring.

OR, a shortened trigger return spring as a result of "bubba" doing a "trigger job" to lighten the trigger pull.

DonVoigt · 06-11-2018, 08:05 PM

If you haven't already, start with a field strip- good cleaning and re-lube.
Pay special attention to the small plunger in the sear bar to be sure it moves easily; be sure to lube the trigger lever, and trigger pivot points.

kurusu · 06-12-2018, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

If you haven't already, start with a field strip- good cleaning and re-lube.
Pay special attention to the small plunger in the sear bar to be sure it moves easily; be sure to lube the trigger lever, and trigger pivot points.

And. Don't lube the plunger. Sometimes it doesn't move freely because someone put lube on it in the past.

DonVoigt · 06-12-2018, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kurusu

And. Don't lube the plunger. Sometimes it doesn't move freely because someone put lube on it in the past.

I don't agree.

Lube with grease is a no-no; very thin oil is the ticket; like any moving metal it does need a little lube.

milesc2 · 06-13-2018, 10:11 AM

I would be willing to bet all your trigger issues would be resolved if you replace the trigger bar plunger spring and the trigger return spring. I would also deep clean the trigger bar, plunger and the recess it all rides in.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/432830L
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/403320K

If it were me, I would also replace the trigger bar spring while you have it apart.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/464350

Do the sideplate numbers match the rest of the gun?

4 Scale · 06-13-2018, 01:43 PM

When attempting to fix function on a Luger, my experience is that problems may be introduced if parts (especially springs) are replaced too soon in the troubleshooting process. Parts fit is variable even with original or high quality replacement parts.

I suggest a diligent attempt to study the issue and isolate the problem before replacing any part, including springs. One of my main pleasures in collecting Lugers is fixing them. Lucky for me, given that most of my collection is relatively inexpensive 'shooters'. They were less expensive for a reason - the majority of them didn't work very well. I've learned the hard way to inspect and test as much as possible before buying parts.

I appreciate this thread, it has reminded me I need to start a separate thread regarding another shooter issue I recently fixed - curing a Luger with a nasty habit of going full auto.

milesc2 · 06-13-2018, 02:38 PM

Good point 4 Scale, If you are not sure exactally what is going on it's possible to cause more issues, especially when it comes to mainsprings! However IMHO swapping these two particular springs probability shouldn’t cause any issue in this case and if it did he could just switch them back.

Martowski,

Are you sure you released the trigger enough for it to reset between shots?
Can you feel the trigger reset when releasing the trigger after a shot?
In my experience with original trigger bar plunger springs it can sometimes be hard to feel the reset and the reset may not reliably occur.

After replacing the trigger bar plunger spring I can feel a really solid click as the pistol resets. (With the Numrich part)
I have now done this on all of my shooters and it's a night and day difference on every one of them.

You can also remove the trigger bar assembly and see how much resistance the plunger has. If it does not have much spring tension it may be time for a new plunger spring or it could be dirty.

Just my .02 but take it for what its worth.

Mike Kay · 06-13-2018, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4 Scale

When attempting to fix function on a Luger, my experience is that problems may be introduced if parts (especially springs) are replaced too soon in the troubleshooting process. Parts fit is variable even with original or high quality replacement parts.

I suggest a diligent attempt to study the issue and isolate the problem before replacing any part, including springs. One of my main pleasures in collecting Lugers is fixing them. Lucky for me, given that most of my collection is relatively inexpensive 'shooters'. They were less expensive for a reason - the majority of them didn't work very well. I've learned the hard way to inspect and test as much as possible before buying parts.

I appreciate this thread, it has reminded me I need to start a separate thread regarding another shooter issue I recently fixed - curing a Luger with a nasty habit of going full auto.

Great advice, thank you. I've recently experienced precisely this issue with my 1916 DWM which was stove piping.

I rushed headlong into replacing all the springs and the problem got worse. Retraced all the steps, re-installed the old springs, and started from scratch with the recoil spring.
I'll see how that goes at the range and proceed from there step by step....

Best,
Mike

06-10-2018, 04:15 PM	#1
martowski User Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts	1916 DWM at the Range The first time out with a new milsurp acquisition is always a bit of fun. Today, I was able to run some ammo through a 1916 DWM that I picked up last month. I am happy to report that it fed and cycled perfectly. The only small hitch is that, every once in awhile, a full trigger squeeze doesn't release the striker. I will squeeze, nothing happens, but when I release and squeeze again it works. Only happened a couple times in about 50 rounds today. The small sights and mushy trigger a a bit limiting to accurate shootinh, but the pistol itself is very accurate. Here's one 8 shot group offend from 50 ft. Anyway, had a blast shooting this and plan to continue much in the future . If anyone has any ideas on what might be causing the intermittent trigger issue I'd be interested for your insight.

06-10-2018, 04:31 PM	#2
HerrKaiser User Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: South Carolina Posts: 803 Thanks: 752 Thanked 795 Times in 377 Posts	Is that a DWM military or commercial? I don’t see any of the numbering on the side typical of military guns. That said, today I took out my mismatched 1937 Mauser on the range and had a blast as well. Enjoy! __________________ -QM Looking for Mauser S/42 toggle train #22

06-11-2018, 08:05 PM	#7
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,677 Thanks: 1,440 Thanked 4,348 Times in 2,038 Posts	If you haven't already, start with a field strip- good cleaning and re-lube. Pay special attention to the small plunger in the sear bar to be sure it moves easily; be sure to lube the trigger lever, and trigger pivot points. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

06-13-2018, 02:38 PM	#12
milesc2 User Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Kansas City Posts: 214 Thanks: 324 Thanked 249 Times in 66 Posts	Good point 4 Scale, If you are not sure exactally what is going on it's possible to cause more issues, especially when it comes to mainsprings! However IMHO swapping these two particular springs probability shouldn’t cause any issue in this case and if it did he could just switch them back. Martowski, Are you sure you released the trigger enough for it to reset between shots? Can you feel the trigger reset when releasing the trigger after a shot? In my experience with original trigger bar plunger springs it can sometimes be hard to feel the reset and the reset may not reliably occur. After replacing the trigger bar plunger spring I can feel a really solid click as the pistol resets. (With the Numrich part) I have now done this on all of my shooters and it's a night and day difference on every one of them. You can also remove the trigger bar assembly and see how much resistance the plunger has. If it does not have much spring tension it may be time for a new plunger spring or it could be dirty. Just my .02 but take it for what its worth. Last edited by milesc2; 06-13-2018 at 06:48 PM.

06-10-2018, 09:31 PM	#3
martowski User Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts	It's a 1916 military, with the 1920 acceptance stamp.

06-10-2018, 11:17 PM	#4
4 Scale User Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 544 Thanks: 194 Thanked 489 Times in 251 Posts	On your trigger issue I'd start by checking the operation of the sear plunger, verifying that its movement is free and correct. If it's sticking or otherwise not operating properly a search of the two Luger forums will reveal several ways to fix it. If that is not the culprit please report back, and more detailed troubleshooting should reveal the problem. Trigger/sear issues are not uncommon but are often easy to fix.

06-13-2018, 10:11 AM	#10
milesc2 User Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Kansas City Posts: 214 Thanks: 324 Thanked 249 Times in 66 Posts	I would be willing to bet all your trigger issues would be resolved if you replace the trigger bar plunger spring and the trigger return spring. I would also deep clean the trigger bar, plunger and the recess it all rides in. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/432830L https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/403320K If it were me, I would also replace the trigger bar spring while you have it apart. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/464350 Do the sideplate numbers match the rest of the gun?

06-13-2018, 01:43 PM	#11
4 Scale User Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 544 Thanks: 194 Thanked 489 Times in 251 Posts	When attempting to fix function on a Luger, my experience is that problems may be introduced if parts (especially springs) are replaced too soon in the troubleshooting process. Parts fit is variable even with original or high quality replacement parts. I suggest a diligent attempt to study the issue and isolate the problem before replacing any part, including springs. One of my main pleasures in collecting Lugers is fixing them. Lucky for me, given that most of my collection is relatively inexpensive 'shooters'. They were less expensive for a reason - the majority of them didn't work very well. I've learned the hard way to inspect and test as much as possible before buying parts. I appreciate this thread, it has reminded me I need to start a separate thread regarding another shooter issue I recently fixed - curing a Luger with a nasty habit of going full auto.