Cast bullet ammo

Doubs · 09-27-2002, 02:33 PM

Cleaning lead from a bore takes nothing more than a rod with a jag wrapped to fit the bore tightly with rather coarse steel wool. Antique "Schuten" rifles with barrels of much softer steel than newer guns are often cleaned that way without harm. Steel wool is very soft. To clean the forcing cone, run the rod in from the muzzle and wrap the steel wool around the jag. Pull it back against the forcing cone and then twist it.

Possibly the best cast bullet design for the Luger is Lyman's 356402 mold. It's a truncated cone design and feeds beautifully. It's also VERY accurate in a good gun.

Cast bullets should be sized .001 - .002" over groove diameter of the gun they're to be shot from. A bore to be used for cast bullets should be squeeky clean of all bullet jacket material. Even so, some bores will lead in spite of being as clean as possible. Although the bore may appear to be smooth, it can have roughness that's not obvious to the naked eye. A thorough cleaning with J-B Bore Paste or Bore Bright can help a lot.

The bullet itself can actually be too hard and, if not properly sized above groove diameter, it will not obturate (enlarge from the gas pressures to fill the bore) and that will cause terrible leading.

Trying to push a non-gascheck bullet to maximum velocity can sometimes create leading because the burning powder will melt the bullet base.

A gascheck design bullet will help prevent leading by scraping the bore.

A good lube such as the NRA 50/50 alox/beeswax formula is essential.

I've shot thousands of rounds of cast bullets through a score of pistols and rifles including many Lugers. A Star 30M I owned would become fouled if you whispered the word "lead" around it. A 1916 DWM Luger with a pitted bore consummed cast bullets as if they were candy and didn't lead up. It all "depends" and what "depends" means isn't exactly clear. Follow the tips above and see what your gun does. If you're lucky........

09-27-2002, 02:33 PM	#6
Doubs User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Byron, Georgia Posts: 1,736 Thanks: 819 Thanked 1,769 Times in 586 Posts	Cleaning lead from a bore takes nothing more than a rod with a jag wrapped to fit the bore tightly with rather coarse steel wool. Antique "Schuten" rifles with barrels of much softer steel than newer guns are often cleaned that way without harm. Steel wool is very soft. To clean the forcing cone, run the rod in from the muzzle and wrap the steel wool around the jag. Pull it back against the forcing cone and then twist it. Possibly the best cast bullet design for the Luger is Lyman's 356402 mold. It's a truncated cone design and feeds beautifully. It's also VERY accurate in a good gun. Cast bullets should be sized .001 - .002" over groove diameter of the gun they're to be shot from. A bore to be used for cast bullets should be squeeky clean of all bullet jacket material. Even so, some bores will lead in spite of being as clean as possible. Although the bore may appear to be smooth, it can have roughness that's not obvious to the naked eye. A thorough cleaning with J-B Bore Paste or Bore Bright can help a lot. The bullet itself can actually be too hard and, if not properly sized above groove diameter, it will not obturate (enlarge from the gas pressures to fill the bore) and that will cause terrible leading. Trying to push a non-gascheck bullet to maximum velocity can sometimes create leading because the burning powder will melt the bullet base. A gascheck design bullet will help prevent leading by scraping the bore. A good lube such as the NRA 50/50 alox/beeswax formula is essential. I've shot thousands of rounds of cast bullets through a score of pistols and rifles including many Lugers. A Star 30M I owned would become fouled if you whispered the word "lead" around it. A 1916 DWM Luger with a pitted bore consummed cast bullets as if they were candy and didn't lead up. It all "depends" and what "depends" means isn't exactly clear. Follow the tips above and see what your gun does. If you're lucky........