![]() |
my profile |
register |
faq |
search upload photo | donate | calendar |
![]() |
#10 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Sweden
Posts: 282
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
It's quite simple.
The firing pin and the sear should be blueprinted. And as those parts often have been filed on I suggest that you weld them up with a weldingrod that hardens when it cools down. After they are welded up, they should be grinded or milled to the ORIGINAL specifications and nothing else. The hook surfaces should be poliched very smoth and in the direction of the travel. When this is done check up if the connector is untoched, is it filed on , change it to a new part. When this is done all work should be done on the trigger, by bending and filing slightly on the sheetmetal plate on the top of the trigger. Most likely will the triggerpull be improved by switching out the triggerspring, and adjustments also have to be made on the searspring. No work should be done on the mainspring, and it should be as strong as possible. If this description is followed accurately togheter with some polishing work on some bearing surfaces the trigger should be almost as good as a SIG P210 or a custom 1911 triggerpull. And don't forget the ABSOLLUTELY most important thing, don't mess around with the hook surfaces on the firing pin and the sear, they should just be blueprinted and NOTHING else. IF the hook surfaces and kept to anything else than specified there is a good chance that you sooner or later have an illigal machinegun. Regards HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|