Extractor Slot

The Wizard · 09-12-2002, 10:36 AM

How does one go about cutting the extractor slot in a Luger barrel. Been thinking of rebarreling a mismatched import Luger with a six inch barrel. Anyone with knowledge of how to do this please share it with me.
The Wizard

John Sabato · 09-12-2002, 05:09 PM

Wizard,

Since you are apparently an amateur, you should be made aware that rebarreling a Luger without the proper tools will likely result in a butchered Luger receiver... it is not recommended for the home gunsmith...

If you have the proper tools to take the old barrel out without marring the receiver or bending the receiver fork, and the knowledge on how to thread a replacement barrel made from a blank, then milling the extractor slot should not be a mystery to you. Just copy the barrel that you take out.

If you have not done this before on a Luger, I would have one of the craftsmen that are also members of the Lugerforum replace the barrel for you.

Hugh Clark (Hugh) and Tom Heller (lugerdoc) come to mind... but there are others who do this successfully on a regular basis and they are welcome to post a reply and tell us all that they are available for that kind of work, and what they charge. Some of them probably have ready to install 6 inch barrels to boot.

Here is what the barrel shank looks like when removed from the receiver:

The Wizard · 09-13-2002, 10:47 AM

Here is the straight stuff. Just started my second year at Trinidad State Junior College in Trinidad, Colorado in their gunsmithing program. Looking forward to a third year of advance study. The "Luger Project" is that third year. The instructor here have a lot of knowledge but have limited experience with Lugers. Once way back when I was told by an engineering professor never reinvent the wheel. Just thought someone out there had a wheel I could use.
The Wizard

John Sabato · 09-13-2002, 11:39 AM

For you first project in the Third Year, I would take on the task of building yourself a Luger receiver wrench... if you need a sketch of the design, let me know and I will whip one up for you.

Bending or distorting the 'fork' of a Luger receiver is a common occurance for someone not familiar with rebarreling this pistol. Most of these barrels haven't moved in over 50 years and the forces used must be directed at the appropriate point to avoid this damage. NEVER put a bar between the sides of the receiver (inside the 'fork') in hopes of adding torque during the removal or installation process. To do so will cause you more grief than you are prepared to deal with.

If you want to talk about his process, send me your phone number via private message and I'll call you when I get the chance...

G.T. · 09-13-2002, 11:48 PM

Hi Wizzard! I have looked at a lot of extractor cuts.....and....I think they are cut with a formed wheel, (or a formed mill cutter) while the barrel was held in a indexed fixture at an angle ! all the same, every time, one shot!! Just my thoughts! till...later...G.T. <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />

Lugerdoc · 09-17-2002, 08:39 AM

Wizzard, I suggest that you start with a ready to install luger barrel with the cut for the extractor already there. I have new exc quality (much better than the GPC barrels) blued 9x150mm barrels available @$75 and 9x100 @$60. I ditto John S.'s recommendation to make sure that you have the proper tools available, before attempting this job. If you are required by your school to start with raw barrel stock, just be sure that the extractor cut and the front sight base are perfectly alined. Tom H.

John Sabato · 09-17-2002, 10:04 AM

Also If your gunsmithing school demands that you demonstrate your fabrication prowness... I would tell you to take a piece of old barrel the appropriate size and create the threaded shank and then with much elbow grease and great precision, cut the extractor groove with your hands and the appropriate files...

One of my metalworking final exams while apprenticing with a master gunsmith over 30 years ago was that I was given a rough cut piece of steel and my objective was to make it a perfect one inch cube within .001 inch using only a bench vise, a micrometer, and any file that I chose to use... IT TOOK ME HOURS! and more than one attempt... how many more I won't say! [img]biggrin.gif[/img]

Wish I still had that cube [img]smile.gif[/img] but I lost it during my travels while on active duty...

Here is a drawing that you may find helpful... (sorry but it is as clear as I have... if anyone has a copy of this drawing that is in better focus please let me know)

09-12-2002, 10:36 AM	#1
The Wizard User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado Posts: 67 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Extractor Slot How does one go about cutting the extractor slot in a Luger barrel. Been thinking of rebarreling a mismatched import Luger with a six inch barrel. Anyone with knowledge of how to do this please share it with me. The Wizard __________________ The Wizard Air Dropable AND Ground Recoverable Necat omnes! Deus suos agnoscet. The application of the proper amount of high explosives can solve any problem. War is an act of force and to the application of that force there is no limit! So say the philosophers (Carl von Clausewitz b 1780 d 1831) of war.

09-12-2002, 05:09 PM	#2
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,155 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,308 Times in 1,098 Posts	Wizard, Since you are apparently an amateur, you should be made aware that rebarreling a Luger without the proper tools will likely result in a butchered Luger receiver... it is not recommended for the home gunsmith... If you have the proper tools to take the old barrel out without marring the receiver or bending the receiver fork, and the knowledge on how to thread a replacement barrel made from a blank, then milling the extractor slot should not be a mystery to you. Just copy the barrel that you take out. If you have not done this before on a Luger, I would have one of the craftsmen that are also members of the Lugerforum replace the barrel for you. Hugh Clark (Hugh) and Tom Heller (lugerdoc) come to mind... but there are others who do this successfully on a regular basis and they are welcome to post a reply and tell us all that they are available for that kind of work, and what they charge. Some of them probably have ready to install 6 inch barrels to boot. Here is what the barrel shank looks like when removed from the receiver: __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

09-13-2002, 10:47 AM	#3
The Wizard User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado Posts: 67 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Here is the straight stuff. Just started my second year at Trinidad State Junior College in Trinidad, Colorado in their gunsmithing program. Looking forward to a third year of advance study. The "Luger Project" is that third year. The instructor here have a lot of knowledge but have limited experience with Lugers. Once way back when I was told by an engineering professor never reinvent the wheel. Just thought someone out there had a wheel I could use. The Wizard __________________ The Wizard Air Dropable AND Ground Recoverable Necat omnes! Deus suos agnoscet. The application of the proper amount of high explosives can solve any problem. War is an act of force and to the application of that force there is no limit! So say the philosophers (Carl von Clausewitz b 1780 d 1831) of war.

09-13-2002, 11:39 AM	#4
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,155 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,308 Times in 1,098 Posts	For you first project in the Third Year, I would take on the task of building yourself a Luger receiver wrench... if you need a sketch of the design, let me know and I will whip one up for you. Bending or distorting the 'fork' of a Luger receiver is a common occurance for someone not familiar with rebarreling this pistol. Most of these barrels haven't moved in over 50 years and the forces used must be directed at the appropriate point to avoid this damage. NEVER put a bar between the sides of the receiver (inside the 'fork') in hopes of adding torque during the removal or installation process. To do so will cause you more grief than you are prepared to deal with. If you want to talk about his process, send me your phone number via private message and I'll call you when I get the chance... __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

09-17-2002, 08:39 AM	#6
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 737 Times in 484 Posts	Wizzard, I suggest that you start with a ready to install luger barrel with the cut for the extractor already there. I have new exc quality (much better than the GPC barrels) blued 9x150mm barrels available @$75 and 9x100 @$60. I ditto John S.'s recommendation to make sure that you have the proper tools available, before attempting this job. If you are required by your school to start with raw barrel stock, just be sure that the extractor cut and the front sight base are perfectly alined. Tom H. __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

09-13-2002, 11:48 PM	#5
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,526 Thanks: 1,323 Thanked 3,709 Times in 1,013 Posts	Hi Wizzard! I have looked at a lot of extractor cuts.....and....I think they are cut with a formed wheel, (or a formed mill cutter) while the barrel was held in a indexed fixture at an angle ! all the same, every time, one shot!! Just my thoughts! till...later...G.T. <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />

09-17-2002, 10:04 AM	#7
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,155 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,308 Times in 1,098 Posts	Also If your gunsmithing school demands that you demonstrate your fabrication prowness... I would tell you to take a piece of old barrel the appropriate size and create the threaded shank and then with much elbow grease and great precision, cut the extractor groove with your hands and the appropriate files... One of my metalworking final exams while apprenticing with a master gunsmith over 30 years ago was that I was given a rough cut piece of steel and my objective was to make it a perfect one inch cube within .001 inch using only a bench vise, a micrometer, and any file that I chose to use... IT TOOK ME HOURS! and more than one attempt... how many more I won't say! [img]biggrin.gif[/img] Wish I still had that cube [img]smile.gif[/img] but I lost it during my travels while on active duty... Here is a drawing that you may find helpful... (sorry but it is as clear as I have... if anyone has a copy of this drawing that is in better focus please let me know) __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*