Cleaning an old Luger

jimmiej · 10-20-2004, 05:34 PM

I just acquired a First Issue that has been lying around in someones basement. What is a good way to overall clean it without damaging any finish or strawing? It has minor surface rust in a few spots and the front and rear grip metal is still blued but "dirty/dull" in appearance. Thanks for any help.Jim

Edward Tinker · 10-20-2004, 06:10 PM

I have done well with just a good scrubbing with gun oil and a cloth. You are wanting to take the rust off of it (many times that is the clouding you'll see).

take the grips off before you do this, and even then, be very careful in removing them, many times I have heard of them getting damaged because of over handeling.

Ensure you do not use anything that will scratch the blueing.

Ed

John D. · 10-20-2004, 06:56 PM

What Ed said about removing the grips....

Also - I use Flitz, which will NOT harm original blue (it does a job on cold blue and "permanent black magic marker, though)... Next - treat with a good oil and reassemble....

HTH,

John D.

jimmiej · 10-20-2004, 07:17 PM

John,
What is Flitz and where can I get it?

John D. · 10-20-2004, 07:31 PM

Hey Jimmie.!

Flitz (http://www.flitz.com/) is sold as a "metal polish" that is sold in a number of places in my area? I think I bought mine at a local gun shop (which is VERY LARGE!). However - I've seen it in chain stores before (I think it was KMart and an automotive store for polishing chrome??)?

If you have difficulty finding it locally - let me know, and next time I go to those places, I'll try to find some more and send it to you, OK??

In your local area - you may want to try either auto parts stores, or some of the larger firearms stores???

Best to you,

John D.

jimmiej · 10-20-2004, 07:38 PM

Thanks for the help. Another question. The hold open was added to this Luger but works intermitently. As this has a correct period magazine but not a matching one, might that be the problem?

Lugerdoc · 10-21-2004, 07:21 AM

Jim, To clean the rust and patina off a rust blued luger, I'd recommend some solvent, a stainless steel brush and elbow grease, before trying anything stronger. For the hold open, first try other mags to see if this improves the operation. If not, remove and check for burrs and clean out frame area. Th

jimmiej · 10-21-2004, 07:30 AM

Thanks to all for the replys. Jim

Navy · 10-21-2004, 10:34 AM

jimmiej,

An old time collector taught me when I first started in this game the following...

Remove grips and soak the piece in kerosene for several days. The kerosene softens the oxidized metal and loosens it. Then rub vigorously with coarse cloth (what we southerners call "croker sack"; repeat as necessary. It is a little more time consuming, but it is impossible to do damage.

Tom A,

PACKET · 10-21-2004, 10:57 PM

Flitz can be found at West marine or Boaters World. It is sold as a stainless polish and works very well. I have never used it on firearms, but it works great on the stainless rails on my boat.

ratdog · 10-22-2004, 08:50 AM

Why would you need to polish stainless, since it doesn't rust? If your rails are polished stainless steel, you can save your money on expensive polishes and use plain old Windex to clean. Later..................B

PACKET · 10-22-2004, 09:48 AM

Actually stainless does rust, just not as bad as carbon steel, and it does get nasty on a saltwater boat in short order. Flitz is called a polish, but I suspect its more of a cleaner and preservative.

ratdog · 10-22-2004, 11:29 AM

You are half right, a lower grade of stainless is less resistant to corrosion. Most bolts and hardware though are Type 304 and DO NOT rust. Must be the marine industry is supplying sub-par components to their customers, or you bought chrome plated fittings under the guise of stainless. But do a search for stainless rusting and you will find that true stainless does not rust. If you have pitting and rust spots, you have chrome!!!!

pipeman45 · 10-23-2004, 11:42 AM

<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by ratdog:
You are half right, a lower grade of stainless is less resistant to corrosion. Most bolts and hardware though are Type 304 and DO NOT rust. Must be the marine industry is supplying sub-par components to their customers, or you bought chrome plated fittings under the guise of stainless. But do a search for stainless rusting and you will find that true stainless does not rust. If you have pitting and rust spots, you have chrome!!!!<hr /></blockquote>Sorry to jump in here and dissagree. But having worked on a dairy farm in my youth,stainless will rust! We had to use food grade metal that was approved by inspectors and some would show rust. When I ask the inspector about it he said "It says stainless,not rustless".

ratdog · 10-23-2004, 04:44 PM

Stainless looks like it's rusting when it gets a scratch in it and particles of steel lay in it. True stainless WILL NOT RUST!!!!!! Look it up............B

Johnny C. Kitchens · 10-23-2004, 11:10 PM

Stainless is called stainless for a reason. It will stain less. It is not called stainproof. The closest to stainproof steel I've seen is Tennifer treated carbon steel. I have cleaned rust from stainless gun barrels that someone thought needed no protection. When Glock choose Tennifer treated carbon steel, they ran test against all sorts of steels treated, and stainless steels, one test involved a year under saltwater. No stainless made it. Even the tennifer treated carbon steel showed some rust, but the part still showed it had integrity. I have a stainless Luger, but I'm not about to let sit with no protection on the surface...

Tomathvl · 10-24-2004, 02:29 AM

http://www.ssina.com/publications/salt_corrosion.html
This may help the open minded.
Tom

Hugh · 10-24-2004, 10:30 PM

WD40 and fine steel wool (3-0 or 4-0) will remove surface rust without harming the blue. Personally, I prefer a product named RB17 that I purchased at a local gun show. Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner also works well.

Steve Richards · 10-25-2004, 12:22 AM

I am not a metalurgist but I would guess that under the right (wrong?) conditions that any iron compound will corrode. Burning gunpowder is going to create all sorts of compounds that are deposited on the gun. Add in oils and salts from your hands, moisture from the air and who knows what will be created.

That said, stainless steel is going to MUCH more forgiving than blued carbon steel!

Just an uneducated opinion.

PACKET · 10-25-2004, 08:27 AM

Excellent observations by everyone, and special thanks to Tomathvl for the great link. Just goes to illustrate that no matter what steel is used in the manufacturing of a firearm, care must be taken to preserve the finish.

10-20-2004, 05:34 PM	#1
jimmiej User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 91 Thanks: 18 Thanked 9 Times in 6 Posts	Cleaning an old Luger I just acquired a First Issue that has been lying around in someones basement. What is a good way to overall clean it without damaging any finish or strawing? It has minor surface rust in a few spots and the front and rear grip metal is still blued but "dirty/dull" in appearance. Thanks for any help.Jim

10-20-2004, 06:10 PM	#2
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,966 Thanks: 2,066 Thanked 4,595 Times in 2,116 Posts	I have done well with just a good scrubbing with gun oil and a cloth. You are wanting to take the rust off of it (many times that is the clouding you'll see). take the grips off before you do this, and even then, be very careful in removing them, many times I have heard of them getting damaged because of over handeling. Ensure you do not use anything that will scratch the blueing. Ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

10-21-2004, 07:21 AM	#7
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 737 Times in 484 Posts	Jim, To clean the rust and patina off a rust blued luger, I'd recommend some solvent, a stainless steel brush and elbow grease, before trying anything stronger. For the hold open, first try other mags to see if this improves the operation. If not, remove and check for burrs and clean out frame area. Th __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

10-23-2004, 11:42 AM	#14
pipeman45 User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kentucky Posts: 539 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by ratdog: <strong>You are half right, a lower grade of stainless is less resistant to corrosion. Most bolts and hardware though are Type 304 and DO NOT rust. Must be the marine industry is supplying sub-par components to their customers, or you bought chrome plated fittings under the guise of stainless. But do a search for stainless rusting and you will find that true stainless does not rust. If you have pitting and rust spots, you have chrome!!!!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Sorry to jump in here and dissagree. But having worked on a dairy farm in my youth,stainless will rust! We had to use food grade metal that was approved by inspectors and some would show rust. When I ask the inspector about it he said "It says stainless,not rustless". __________________ Dave

10-23-2004, 11:10 PM	#16
Johnny C. Kitchens User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Arlington, Texas Posts: 518 Thanks: 0 Thanked 20 Times in 8 Posts	Stainless is called stainless for a reason. It will stain less. It is not called stainproof. The closest to stainproof steel I've seen is Tennifer treated carbon steel. I have cleaned rust from stainless gun barrels that someone thought needed no protection. When Glock choose Tennifer treated carbon steel, they ran test against all sorts of steels treated, and stainless steels, one test involved a year under saltwater. No stainless made it. Even the tennifer treated carbon steel showed some rust, but the part still showed it had integrity. I have a stainless Luger, but I'm not about to let sit with no protection on the surface... __________________ Johnny C. Kitchens

10-20-2004, 06:56 PM	#3
John D. Administrator & Site Owner LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: A Little NE of Somewhere... Posts: 2,651 Thanks: 477 Thanked 515 Times in 128 Posts	What Ed said about removing the grips.... Also - I use Flitz, which will NOT harm original blue (it does a job on cold blue and "permanent black magic marker, though)... Next - treat with a good oil and reassemble.... HTH, John D.

10-20-2004, 07:17 PM	#4
jimmiej User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 91 Thanks: 18 Thanked 9 Times in 6 Posts	John, What is Flitz and where can I get it?

10-20-2004, 07:31 PM	#5
John D. Administrator & Site Owner LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: A Little NE of Somewhere... Posts: 2,651 Thanks: 477 Thanked 515 Times in 128 Posts	Hey Jimmie.! Flitz (http://www.flitz.com/) is sold as a "metal polish" that is sold in a number of places in my area? I think I bought mine at a local gun shop (which is VERY LARGE!). However - I've seen it in chain stores before (I think it was KMart and an automotive store for polishing chrome??)? If you have difficulty finding it locally - let me know, and next time I go to those places, I'll try to find some more and send it to you, OK?? In your local area - you may want to try either auto parts stores, or some of the larger firearms stores??? Best to you, John D.

10-20-2004, 07:38 PM	#6
jimmiej User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 91 Thanks: 18 Thanked 9 Times in 6 Posts	Thanks for the help. Another question. The hold open was added to this Luger but works intermitently. As this has a correct period magazine but not a matching one, might that be the problem?

10-21-2004, 07:30 AM	#8
jimmiej User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 91 Thanks: 18 Thanked 9 Times in 6 Posts	Thanks to all for the replys. Jim

10-21-2004, 10:34 AM	#9
Navy RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Dc 'burbs in Virginia Posts: 2,482 Thanks: 0 Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts	jimmiej, An old time collector taught me when I first started in this game the following... Remove grips and soak the piece in kerosene for several days. The kerosene softens the oxidized metal and loosens it. Then rub vigorously with coarse cloth (what we southerners call "croker sack"; repeat as necessary. It is a little more time consuming, but it is impossible to do damage. Tom A,

10-21-2004, 10:57 PM	#10
PACKET User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: FL. Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Flitz can be found at West marine or Boaters World. It is sold as a stainless polish and works very well. I have never used it on firearms, but it works great on the stainless rails on my boat.

10-22-2004, 08:50 AM	#11
ratdog User Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 147 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Why would you need to polish stainless, since it doesn't rust? If your rails are polished stainless steel, you can save your money on expensive polishes and use plain old Windex to clean. Later..................B

10-22-2004, 09:48 AM	#12
PACKET User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: FL. Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Actually stainless does rust, just not as bad as carbon steel, and it does get nasty on a saltwater boat in short order. Flitz is called a polish, but I suspect its more of a cleaner and preservative.

10-22-2004, 11:29 AM	#13
ratdog User Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 147 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	You are half right, a lower grade of stainless is less resistant to corrosion. Most bolts and hardware though are Type 304 and DO NOT rust. Must be the marine industry is supplying sub-par components to their customers, or you bought chrome plated fittings under the guise of stainless. But do a search for stainless rusting and you will find that true stainless does not rust. If you have pitting and rust spots, you have chrome!!!!

10-23-2004, 04:44 PM	#15
ratdog User Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 147 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Stainless looks like it's rusting when it gets a scratch in it and particles of steel lay in it. True stainless WILL NOT RUST!!!!!! Look it up............B

10-24-2004, 02:29 AM	#17
Tomathvl User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Milan, IN Posts: 363 Thanks: 3 Thanked 48 Times in 19 Posts	http://www.ssina.com/publications/salt_corrosion.html This may help the open minded. Tom

10-24-2004, 10:30 PM	#18
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 166 Times in 65 Posts	WD40 and fine steel wool (3-0 or 4-0) will remove surface rust without harming the blue. Personally, I prefer a product named RB17 that I purchased at a local gun show. Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner also works well. __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

10-25-2004, 12:22 AM	#19
Steve Richards User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 487 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I am not a metalurgist but I would guess that under the right (wrong?) conditions that any iron compound will corrode. Burning gunpowder is going to create all sorts of compounds that are deposited on the gun. Add in oils and salts from your hands, moisture from the air and who knows what will be created. That said, stainless steel is going to MUCH more forgiving than blued carbon steel! Just an uneducated opinion.

10-25-2004, 08:27 AM	#20
PACKET User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: FL. Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Excellent observations by everyone, and special thanks to Tomathvl for the great link. Just goes to illustrate that no matter what steel is used in the manufacturing of a firearm, care must be taken to preserve the finish.