Luger loading tools

Robert W. Simms · 09-25-2003, 06:54 PM

Greetings to all:
Now that I have two shooting grade Lugers, I have learned that the loading tool is very handy indeed for avoiding thumb abrasions. I bought an inexpensive reproduction loading tool just to aid in reloading the magazines, but am now interested in obtaining an original one. My two Lugers are both Mauser manufactured, one in 1938 and the other in 1940 (S/42 and 42 toggles). The 1938 has eagle-over-63 Waffenamt stamps and the 1940 has eagle-over-655 stamps. I would like to find a wartime loading tool with one of these stamps and in fact am currently bidding on one stamped WaA63 from an Ebay seller in Sweden. I believe his to be genuine but, in fact, I have no way of knowing for sure. The only difference I can observe between the replicas and the originals is that the clearance grooves were cleanly milled on the original and appear to be less defined in the cast replicas. However, I suppose there is nothing to keep a counterfeiter from milling his own out and pawning them off as the real McCoy. How can you tell whether a given specimen is original or a replica?

09-25-2003, 06:54 PM	#1
Robert W. Simms User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mount Juliet, TN Posts: 16 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Luger loading tools Greetings to all: Now that I have two shooting grade Lugers, I have learned that the loading tool is very handy indeed for avoiding thumb abrasions. I bought an inexpensive reproduction loading tool just to aid in reloading the magazines, but am now interested in obtaining an original one. My two Lugers are both Mauser manufactured, one in 1938 and the other in 1940 (S/42 and 42 toggles). The 1938 has eagle-over-63 Waffenamt stamps and the 1940 has eagle-over-655 stamps. I would like to find a wartime loading tool with one of these stamps and in fact am currently bidding on one stamped WaA63 from an Ebay seller in Sweden. I believe his to be genuine but, in fact, I have no way of knowing for sure. The only difference I can observe between the replicas and the originals is that the clearance grooves were cleanly milled on the original and appear to be less defined in the cast replicas. However, I suppose there is nothing to keep a counterfeiter from milling his own out and pawning them off as the real McCoy. How can you tell whether a given specimen is original or a replica?