1937 S/42 Mauser in Nickel - Should I Buy It?

[LugerNewby]

Hi Gang -

Another one for you that I can use some help with. Bumped onto this one in an small LGS, it was a consignment gun. From what I can see:

* I assume it was replated at some point in Nickel
* Numbers are matching on all visible small parts (w/o the mag)
* Barrel must have been in pretty rough shape before the re-plate
* Mechanically seemed fine as I pulled on the toggle and released a couple of times, tried the safety, dry-fired twice (with a snap cap, of course), mag released fine

Selling for $1,000 but they said the owner has given them permission to sell it as low as $800, so I assume I can get it for that.

I did not take a pic of the bore...I know I should have, this is critical for any shooter...I dunno!

A couple of questions for the group:
* Is there anything unusual you may be seeing?
* Is it worth at this price (as a shooter)?
* I assume those are aftermarket grips, is that true?

Thanks,
Slav

[rolandtg]

Those look like Russian replacement grips.
At least it wasn't buffed to death prior to plating.
Imho, for $800 it would probably make for a nice, shiny shooter.

[rhuff]

IF it functions correctly, then $800 would be my top bid. It could be improved, but why?? Just shoot and enjoy.

[Bill_in_VA]

If they’ll take $800, I say jump on it. Any functioning Luger under $1000 is a “buy” these days.

[Doubs]

If the bore is good, I'd pay $800 for it in a heartbeat. Mismatched shooters are going for more.

[LugerNewby]

Originally Posted by Doubs

If the bore is good, I'd pay $800 for it in a heartbeat. Mismatched shooters are going for more.

Yes, I should have taken a pic of the bore. I had bought a gun and had looked at a couple of more when I noticed the Luger...there was a lot going on. I thought I looked at it, and it looked good but I looked at three more firearms there, so things got a little unclear in my head on the bore specifically...

I should expect a minimal amount of pitting, and 80-90% good rifling to qualify it as a 'good bore'.

Here is a pic of a 1917 DMW Luger I bought earlier. In my view, the bore should be no worse than this, right?

[Bill_in_VA]

Even a crusty bore will shoot well.

[Doubs]

Originally Posted by Bill_in_VA

Even a crusty bore will shoot well.

Absolutely. Unless the bore is completely ruined, Lugers can have excellent accuracy. A nice bore is, of course, better.

[gunbugs]

I would recommend the phrase "A crusty bore MAY shoot well, some do, and some don't".

[Fireline006]

Bore looks nice! You should buy it!

[LugerNewby]

Ok folks -

I bought it yesterday. Called in exactly 30 days after it was left for consignment, offered the $800 that I knew was going to do it and they put it away for me on Friday, and I went and picked it up on Saturday.

I inspected some more - bore was decent, very solid overall, no rattling, cycled 2-3 times with snap caps - everything operated well, trigger was smooth, the toggle was smooth, all in all everything operated as I expected.

I still have not decided what I will do long term - just shoot it, or make a nice display for it, but will definitely run a box or two through it this upcoming week to start with. I assume regular 115 grain target ammo would be fine?

Finally, is there something I can do about the small rust pitting spots on the left side of the barrel and the trigger plate and left side of the frame where the nickel has 'yellowed' some? If I triy Mother's nickel polish I assume I won't make it worse (but probably not going to make it much better?

Adding some more pics. Sorry, they are not great but it was getting dark nickel plated guns are so hard to take pictures of...

Thank you again for the encouragement and reassurance to go ahead with it!

[gunbugs]

The pits are under the Nickel plating, so there isn't anything that can be done to help that.

[Mac Cat]

9mm FMJ "TARGET" ammo. 115gr should work nicely.

Avoid any other modeling high powered or NATO ammunition, which is too powerful
and likely to break parts. Winchester is fairly easy to find.

[Bill_in_VA]

Congratulations on your new purchase! (IMHO, every Luger collector needs a nickle-plated gun.)

As gunbugs said, there isn’t anything you can do about the pits. I’ll add that you should avoid anything like Hoppes 9, similar powder solvents, carburetor/brake cleaner, WD40, or similar penetrating oils as they can seep into small areas between the steel and copper the nickle/chrome, and cause the plating to eventually lift and flake.

Enjoy your gun for what it is. Keep it as a bright, blingy, shooter. You aren’t going to hurt the gun or its value - especially at the price you paid. Buy a couple of MecGar magazines and some Winchester white box and have fun.

[Bill_in_VA]

PS, if you decide to swap out those Russian grips, I’d be interested. I’m sure I have a spare pair or two beech grips. And in fairness to the res of the board, I’m sure most of the other members here do to, and would be interested in your grips.

[LugerNewby]

Originally Posted by Bill_in_VA

Congratulations on your new purchase! (IMHO, every Luger collector needs a nickle-plated gun.)

As gunbugs said, there isn’t anything you can do about the pits. I’ll add that you should avoid anything like Hoppes 9, similar powder solvents, carburetor/brake cleaner, WD40, or similar penetrating oils as they can seep into small areas between the steel and copper the nickle/chrome, and cause the plating to eventually lift and flake.

Enjoy your gun for what it is. Keep it as a bright, blingy, shooter. You aren’t going to hurt the gun or its value - especially at the price you paid. Buy a couple of MecGar magazines and some Winchester white box and have fun.

Thanks for the advice above, and yes - I don't let the Hoppes 9 nowhere near any of my blued or nickel plated guns. Good old G96 CLP, Rem Oil or Ballistol on those...