Breech Block Failure 1916/1920 Erfurt

G.T. · 01-30-2021, 02:29 AM

Hi Allen, at least with the forum help, you have a lot more info than when you started!

.... As for the gauges, once you have the "NO GO" you can use it as a base guide dimensionally and put scotch tape on the back of a regular empty and make your own "GO" gauge! I've done it many times, and even made incremental sets to see just where I was at when re-barreling?.. I pay a'lot of attention to where the toggle knob is in relation to the receiver rail when using gauges, both "GO" & "NO GO" on closing. You'll get a feel for the exactly right head spacing, more importantly, you'll have a baseline if ever a problem should arise... If possible, I like the action to close tightly on the "GO" .... seems to work out fine in the overall picture.... best to you Allen, til....lat'r.....GT...

01-30-2021, 02:29 AM	#27
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,541 Thanks: 1,342 Thanked 3,743 Times in 1,020 Posts	gauges Hi Allen, at least with the forum help, you have a lot more info than when you started! .... As for the gauges, once you have the "NO GO" you can use it as a base guide dimensionally and put scotch tape on the back of a regular empty and make your own "GO" gauge! I've done it many times, and even made incremental sets to see just where I was at when re-barreling?.. I pay a'lot of attention to where the toggle knob is in relation to the receiver rail when using gauges, both "GO" & "NO GO" on closing. You'll get a feel for the exactly right head spacing, more importantly, you'll have a baseline if ever a problem should arise... If possible, I like the action to close tightly on the "GO" .... seems to work out fine in the overall picture.... best to you Allen, til....lat'r.....GT...