How to get to the right finish for bluing

calibrator · 11-12-2020, 10:01 AM

I glass bead a LOT of parts for restoration of vintage Mercedes Gullwings and Roadsters.

Line pressure is the key (as well as grit size/material of course). It's most noticeable with aluminum castings. ~ 40 psi seems to give a nice smooth satin-like look. 120 psi gives it a shot peened appearance (not bad in some cases, but NOT for a $1M investor car). At high pressure (over 100 psi) small parts, especially sheet metal will bend, warp and twist.

Also found that when polishing plastics/acrylics, a final pass with carnuba wax gives it a boost.

YMMV

11-12-2020, 10:01 AM	#6
calibrator User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cave Creek Posts: 340 Thanks: 67 Thanked 271 Times in 108 Posts	I glass bead a LOT of parts for restoration of vintage Mercedes Gullwings and Roadsters. Line pressure is the key (as well as grit size/material of course). It's most noticeable with aluminum castings. ~ 40 psi seems to give a nice smooth satin-like look. 120 psi gives it a shot peened appearance (not bad in some cases, but NOT for a $1M investor car). At high pressure (over 100 psi) small parts, especially sheet metal will bend, warp and twist. Also found that when polishing plastics/acrylics, a final pass with carnuba wax gives it a boost. YMMV