How to Repair - Luger breech block wear- striker spring guide comes out

Rickybill · 10-05-2018, 10:40 PM

He did drill in from both sides.
Because the hole is not centered on a flat surface, some tool - I'm not a machinist - was used to cut down to a point where the drill could go straight in without wandering.
The pin was fixed with green Loctite.

My gunsmith will drill the hole and install a pin for $50, if anyone wants that part of the work done, leaving the fitting to the owner.
After his experience with my breechblock, he can do it again much more easily than the first one.
This is a terrible picture, and that's why I didn't use it before, but you should be able to see the pin, with the part blocking the bore of the breechblock reduced with a small, round needle file.

Rick W. · 10-06-2018, 09:01 AM

Rickybill,

Thanks a lot for the detailed pictures of the pin in your repair. Lots of information there for me to ponder. Gives me the gumption to try it myself on a blown breechblock(obvious high pressure) that I have, fixed years ago by someone with brazing. Of course, failed sometime over the years before I got it. Have kept it for some odd reason, perhaps today is the day.

I suspect knowing me, that I will consider use of a Henkel retainer, as it is made for cylindical, non threaded surfaces. Similar material is used to lock sleeves in engines like the corvette. Also has a higher temperature point, if that matters to anyone. The retainer stuff has been good to me over the many years of doing front banded sights on high power rifles, easier cleanup than the old silver solder(soft or hard). Even old guys still have to learn ti seems here.

I am pondering the advantage of the threaded pin versus one that is affixed by other means........but just thinkin now............

appreciate your time to help me out.

Rick W.

10-05-2018, 10:40 PM	#1
Rickybill User Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 25 Thanks: 0 Thanked 12 Times in 6 Posts	He did drill in from both sides. Because the hole is not centered on a flat surface, some tool - I'm not a machinist - was used to cut down to a point where the drill could go straight in without wandering. The pin was fixed with green Loctite. My gunsmith will drill the hole and install a pin for $50, if anyone wants that part of the work done, leaving the fitting to the owner. After his experience with my breechblock, he can do it again much more easily than the first one. This is a terrible picture, and that's why I didn't use it before, but you should be able to see the pin, with the part blocking the bore of the breechblock reduced with a small, round needle file. Attached Thumbnails Last edited by Rickybill; 10-05-2018 at 10:45 PM. Reason: added pic

10-06-2018, 09:01 AM	#2
Rick W. User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 339 Thanks: 81 Thanked 359 Times in 198 Posts	Rickybill, Thanks a lot for the detailed pictures of the pin in your repair. Lots of information there for me to ponder. Gives me the gumption to try it myself on a blown breechblock(obvious high pressure) that I have, fixed years ago by someone with brazing. Of course, failed sometime over the years before I got it. Have kept it for some odd reason, perhaps today is the day. I suspect knowing me, that I will consider use of a Henkel retainer, as it is made for cylindical, non threaded surfaces. Similar material is used to lock sleeves in engines like the corvette. Also has a higher temperature point, if that matters to anyone. The retainer stuff has been good to me over the many years of doing front banded sights on high power rifles, easier cleanup than the old silver solder(soft or hard). Even old guys still have to learn ti seems here. I am pondering the advantage of the threaded pin versus one that is affixed by other means........but just thinkin now............ appreciate your time to help me out. Rick W.