S & W .38 double action top break info

Jim Mac · 07-15-2017, 04:45 PM

I looked around on the web and couldn't find a answer. Just picked up a sw .38 top break double action revolver. I believe it's a 4th change? Serial number is in the 334xxx range.
Question is, is this a double action only revolver? The hammer does not lock back to shoot single action. Thanks. Jim

kurusu · 07-15-2017, 05:41 PM

If I'm not mistaken there's something wrong with the lockwork of you revolver. The double action only Smiths from that era have no visible hammer.

Jim Mac · 07-15-2017, 06:52 PM

Just got home and pulled the side cover. It looks like the sear is a bit worn. And won't catch the hammer for single action. It does catch for the 1/8 safety. It looks like a 18dollar part at numrich. Figured out it's a 4th model in 38sw. Going to order the rear sear and try my hand at gunsmith 101. Jim

mccaslyn · 07-15-2017, 09:15 PM

I had a double action only in .32sw and there was no visable hammer its all internal. The sear would be my guess or even a slightly worn hammer. It was a surprisingly accurate gun. Be prepared to pay for the ammo though

Jim Mac · 07-15-2017, 10:09 PM

Sgammo has 38sw for .40 a round. Not sure if it's okay to shoot commercial ammo in a revolver this old. Jim

Jim Mac · 07-16-2017, 09:30 PM

So here's the question. Since I'm not a gunsmith, would it be better to just leave the revolver alone, use it as a range toy, shooting double action only? The cylinder seems to lock up tight. I have other guns for for home defense, EDC etc. Only reason I bought the gun was it was cheap. The rear part of the trigger guard wasn't on it and the seller thought it needed a gunsmith to fit the trigger guard, and with the back of the trigger guard off, you couldnt pull the trigger to check function. I popped the trigger guard back on and that's when I found it's double action only now.
Jim

mccaslyn · 07-16-2017, 09:53 PM

Stuff like this always bug's me so i would have to fix it. But that said mine had trigger return issues which ended up being the trigger return spring needed to have more pressure on the trigger so it would "reset" so it cost me 0$ in parts just time. Id fix only if parts are going to be quite a bit less then what you paid for the gun itself otherwise just shoot it da only you would be supprised how great it can shoot

Jim Mac · 07-16-2017, 10:20 PM

The gun cost $50 at the local swap meet, the rear sear is $19 plus shipping at numrich gun parts. I don't have the concave punches to drive out the pins. Jim

mccaslyn · 07-18-2017, 12:51 PM

id probably just shoot it for what it is in double action. any standered 38 s&w should be fine to shoot as long as lockup and function is fine (besides the single action)

Jim Mac · 07-18-2017, 07:50 PM

Do any of you guys have trouble selling stuff? I was offered $175 for the old revolver. Nice profit but I bought it because it reminded me of the first gun me and my dad got to shoot. His friend lent him a old iver Johnson top break .38. When we first moved stateside that was the first gun we took out on a regular basis to shoot in the desert.
I've kept my eyes open for a decent iver Johnson but haven't found anything in decent shape for a decent price. I'm thinking of just hanging onto it because it's close and probably a little better built. Its not my only gun, probably would never put a full box of ammo thru it. Jim

07-15-2017, 04:45 PM	#1
Jim Mac User Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 264 Thanks: 2 Thanked 70 Times in 37 Posts	S & W .38 double action top break info I looked around on the web and couldn't find a answer. Just picked up a sw .38 top break double action revolver. I believe it's a 4th change? Serial number is in the 334xxx range. Question is, is this a double action only revolver? The hammer does not lock back to shoot single action. Thanks. Jim

07-15-2017, 06:52 PM	#3
Jim Mac User Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 264 Thanks: 2 Thanked 70 Times in 37 Posts	Just got home and pulled the side cover. It looks like the sear is a bit worn. And won't catch the hammer for single action. It does catch for the 1/8 safety. It looks like a 18dollar part at numrich. Figured out it's a 4th model in 38sw. Going to order the rear sear and try my hand at gunsmith 101. Jim Last edited by Jim Mac; 07-15-2017 at 09:46 PM.

07-15-2017, 05:41 PM	#2
kurusu User Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,225 Thanks: 2,679 Thanked 930 Times in 509 Posts	If I'm not mistaken there's something wrong with the lockwork of you revolver. The double action only Smiths from that era have no visible hammer.

07-15-2017, 09:15 PM	#4
mccaslyn User Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 88 Thanks: 0 Thanked 20 Times in 16 Posts	I had a double action only in .32sw and there was no visable hammer its all internal. The sear would be my guess or even a slightly worn hammer. It was a surprisingly accurate gun. Be prepared to pay for the ammo though

07-15-2017, 10:09 PM	#5
Jim Mac User Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 264 Thanks: 2 Thanked 70 Times in 37 Posts	Sgammo has 38sw for .40 a round. Not sure if it's okay to shoot commercial ammo in a revolver this old. Jim

07-16-2017, 09:30 PM	#6
Jim Mac User Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 264 Thanks: 2 Thanked 70 Times in 37 Posts	So here's the question. Since I'm not a gunsmith, would it be better to just leave the revolver alone, use it as a range toy, shooting double action only? The cylinder seems to lock up tight. I have other guns for for home defense, EDC etc. Only reason I bought the gun was it was cheap. The rear part of the trigger guard wasn't on it and the seller thought it needed a gunsmith to fit the trigger guard, and with the back of the trigger guard off, you couldnt pull the trigger to check function. I popped the trigger guard back on and that's when I found it's double action only now. Jim

07-16-2017, 09:53 PM	#7
mccaslyn User Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 88 Thanks: 0 Thanked 20 Times in 16 Posts	Stuff like this always bug's me so i would have to fix it. But that said mine had trigger return issues which ended up being the trigger return spring needed to have more pressure on the trigger so it would "reset" so it cost me 0$ in parts just time. Id fix only if parts are going to be quite a bit less then what you paid for the gun itself otherwise just shoot it da only you would be supprised how great it can shoot

07-16-2017, 10:20 PM	#8
Jim Mac User Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 264 Thanks: 2 Thanked 70 Times in 37 Posts	The gun cost $50 at the local swap meet, the rear sear is $19 plus shipping at numrich gun parts. I don't have the concave punches to drive out the pins. Jim

07-18-2017, 12:51 PM	#9
mccaslyn User Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 88 Thanks: 0 Thanked 20 Times in 16 Posts	id probably just shoot it for what it is in double action. any standered 38 s&w should be fine to shoot as long as lockup and function is fine (besides the single action)

07-18-2017, 07:50 PM	#10
Jim Mac User Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 264 Thanks: 2 Thanked 70 Times in 37 Posts	Do any of you guys have trouble selling stuff? I was offered $175 for the old revolver. Nice profit but I bought it because it reminded me of the first gun me and my dad got to shoot. His friend lent him a old iver Johnson top break .38. When we first moved stateside that was the first gun we took out on a regular basis to shoot in the desert. I've kept my eyes open for a decent iver Johnson but haven't found anything in decent shape for a decent price. I'm thinking of just hanging onto it because it's close and probably a little better built. Its not my only gun, probably would never put a full box of ammo thru it. Jim