Successful re-Strawing

[dnickels]

I am in the process of refinishing an old, pre 1916 commercial Luger. When I bought the gun, it had been stripped of all it's original finish and was either badly worn, or scrubbed/polished. This was okay with me since I bought it as a project gun to refinish, which I enjoy doing.

The trigger was my practice piece for a new straw finish. It was polished with some wet and dry sandpaper and with a Dremel tool using a wire brush, cleaned with denatured alcohol, and placed on a bit of aluminum foil on a cookie sheet. I baked the trigger at 450 degrees for 15-20 minutes. I checked it a couple of times and at 15 minutes there was not much change. At 20 there was some change and I took the part out.

The hot part was dipped in a bit of light machine oil (Penn fishing reel oil), lightly wiped off and left to sit. Within the hour it had taken on a nice darker golden yellow color.

[Eugen]

Wow, nice work and thanks for the detailed write up. So that is how it is done. Interesting.

Is there a reason you chose that particular oil. Is it vegetable based, like 3in1, or petroleum based? I think I am using the right terms. I just want to know for sure about recommended oil to use to understand how to achieve an oem result..

[DonVoigt]

Eugen,
As I understand the process, the oil dip is to stop the heating from continuing to color the piece.
The oil may give a little color as it dries/ages. jmho

[Eugen]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

Eugen,
As I understand the process, the oil dip is to stop the heating from continuing to color the piece.
The oil may give a little color as it dries/ages. jmho

Don, I guess I assumed (which is dangerous) that the oil (plus heat) was part of a curing and preservative step that lent the straw color. I have much to learn.

Thank you for clarifying the process.

[sheepherder]

I read an article some years back on the oil - it said Pure Canola Oil. The article said to place the parts on a rack and tip the part into the oil when color was reached, IIRC.

Edit: It wasn't discussed here but on another forum. The short article/note concerned spring hardening/tempering. Brownell's included it in their catalog.

So the question of what oil remains...

BTW: There is an excellent 'sticky' on strawing parts here on the forum -

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=18457

[DonVoigt]

I've strawed many parts and use what ever oil is " handy".

As you may know, linseed will add an amber tone when it dries/cures.

I've used wd-40, motor oil, linseed oil, unknown oil; I can't tell the difference.

Next time I use the stove I'll try olive oil, always have it in the kitchen!

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

I've used wd-40, motor oil, linseed oil, unknown oil; I can't tell the difference.

But have you tried Marvel Mystery Oil??? When I was in boot camp, following qualification, we cleaned our M14's and then dipped them in a mix of marvel Mystery Oil and gasoline and let dry, for Final Inspection.

I've been using 3in1 Oil for oiling my firearms but have Marvel Mystery Oil on my shopping list.

[John Sabato]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

But have you tried Marvel Mystery Oil??? When I was in boot camp, following qualification, we cleaned our M14's ...

In December of 1967, the supply sergeant in my basic training company (E-7-2) at Fort Bragg, NC, used a dental pick to inspect every nook and cranny of my M-14 before I was allowed to turn it in... He didn't know that I cleaned all those nooks and crannies with my own wire pick... (because I knew where he would be checking)...

He didn't like me because I got him in trouble for giving me an unlawful order and I refused to obey the order, but he had to accept my rifle because the company commander happened to be standing right there and saw that he found nothing with his dental pick even after swiping the crevices multiple times... WHEW!

Dodged the bullet on that one! You weren't allowed to depart after completing basic training until your rifle passed the final cleanliness inspection.

[rhuff]

I have strawed a few different parts over time, and I am pretty sure that I just used 30W motor oil to quench the hot part/s in. The end result was exactly what I was wanting. The sticky on this forum is excellent!!

[ithacaartist]

Here's how to establish the exact temperature for strawing parts inside your oven or toaster oven. Using a hotter temperature risks taking the color too far by overheating them. Once the color is established, there is no need to quench the parts, because they won't get any hotter than the exact temp. for strawing, which you've set.

I use a small container of sand as a buffer which will take on the oven temp. throughout its mass, which takes 30-45 min. Immersing the parts in question in the sand allows them, in turn, to take on the exact temp.--but no higher--after another 15-30 min.

Since most thermostats for such appliances are not exact, a little trial and error is in order, to establish the setting on the dial. Start out at perhaps 375, temper the buffer sand, then see what color a shined up part turns. The temp. can be increased gradually until perfect results are the outcome. Once the setting is established, make a discreet mark on your oven's dial so you can have the right temp. straight off, next time.

[dnickels]

That is a handy chart and info. Thanks !

I used the oil I did because it was handy and about like machine oil or 3 in 1 oil.

So, the oil does nothing to impart or affect the color in the end?

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by dnickels

So, the oil does nothing to impart or affect the color in the end?

That's right. Quenching is important during initial hardening, to cool quickly when the steel is hot enough to be non-magnetic. Ever notice when grinding on a shiny piece of metal that when it gets really hot, the same gradient in the pic emanates from the cut? The color is not much more, if any, than one molecule thick!

[DonVoigt]

Sure I've used Marvel mystery oil, first time probably 50 years ago; but only in cars!

The mystery is why is it red. JMHO.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by John Sabato

In December of 1967, the supply sergeant in my basic training company (E-7-2) at Fort Bragg, NC...You weren't allowed to depart after completing basic training until your rifle passed the final cleanliness inspection.

I was in Platoon 1092 in Dec 1969 - If you didn't qualify, you got recycled. Final Inspection, I had a bird colonel with white gloves inspect my M14. When he came in front of me, my hand slipped coming to 'port arms'...He said, "You want to try that again, son???"... I got it right the second time, but my company commander was looking bullets at me...

Those locking lugs around the chamber were a PITA to get clean...

[Edward Tinker]

I have used oil and generally NOT used oil.

I have also had the brightest, yellowish trigger this side of Oz too...

[Vic103]

Nice write up dnickels, I did what you said (450 degrees for 20 minutes). It worked like a charm!

[DonVoigt]

Nice work.

The beauty of straw, besides the appearance, is that if you get it wrong you can do it over!