Successful re-Strawing
I am in the process of refinishing an old, pre 1916 commercial Luger. When I bought the gun, it had been stripped of all it's original finish and was either badly worn, or scrubbed/polished. This was okay with me since I bought it as a project gun to refinish, which I enjoy doing.
The trigger was my practice piece for a new straw finish. It was polished with some wet and dry sandpaper and with a Dremel tool using a wire brush, cleaned with denatured alcohol, and placed on a bit of aluminum foil on a cookie sheet. I baked the trigger at 450 degrees for 15-20 minutes. I checked it a couple of times and at 15 minutes there was not much change. At 20 there was some change and I took the part out. The hot part was dipped in a bit of light machine oil (Penn fishing reel oil), lightly wiped off and left to sit. Within the hour it had taken on a nice darker golden yellow color. http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b6...ps2nucspav.jpg |
Wow, nice work and thanks for the detailed write up. So that is how it is done. Interesting.
Is there a reason you chose that particular oil. Is it vegetable based, like 3in1, or petroleum based? I think I am using the right terms. I just want to know for sure about recommended oil to use to understand how to achieve an oem result.. |
Eugen,
As I understand the process, the oil dip is to stop the heating from continuing to color the piece. The oil may give a little color as it dries/ages. jmho |
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Thank you for clarifying the process. |
I read an article some years back on the oil - it said Pure Canola Oil. The article said to place the parts on a rack and tip the part into the oil when color was reached, IIRC. :rolleyes:
Edit: It wasn't discussed here but on another forum. The short article/note concerned spring hardening/tempering. Brownell's included it in their catalog. So the question of what oil remains... :p BTW: There is an excellent 'sticky' on strawing parts here on the forum - http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=18457 |
I've strawed many parts and use what ever oil is " handy".
As you may know, linseed will add an amber tone when it dries/cures. I've used wd-40, motor oil, linseed oil, unknown oil; I can't tell the difference. Next time I use the stove I'll try olive oil, always have it in the kitchen! ;) |
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I've been using 3in1 Oil for oiling my firearms but have Marvel Mystery Oil on my shopping list. :thumbup: |
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He didn't like me because I got him in trouble for giving me an unlawful order and I refused to obey the order, but he had to accept my rifle because the company commander happened to be standing right there and saw that he found nothing with his dental pick even after swiping the crevices multiple times... WHEW! Dodged the bullet on that one! You weren't allowed to depart after completing basic training until your rifle passed the final cleanliness inspection. :cheers: |
I have strawed a few different parts over time, and I am pretty sure that I just used 30W motor oil to quench the hot part/s in. The end result was exactly what I was wanting. The sticky on this forum is excellent!!
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Still doing it the hard way?
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Here's how to establish the exact temperature for strawing parts inside your oven or toaster oven. Using a hotter temperature risks taking the color too far by overheating them. Once the color is established, there is no need to quench the parts, because they won't get any hotter than the exact temp. for strawing, which you've set.
I use a small container of sand as a buffer which will take on the oven temp. throughout its mass, which takes 30-45 min. Immersing the parts in question in the sand allows them, in turn, to take on the exact temp.--but no higher--after another 15-30 min. Since most thermostats for such appliances are not exact, a little trial and error is in order, to establish the setting on the dial. Start out at perhaps 375, temper the buffer sand, then see what color a shined up part turns. The temp. can be increased gradually until perfect results are the outcome. Once the setting is established, make a discreet mark on your oven's dial so you can have the right temp. straight off, next time. |
That is a handy chart and info. Thanks !
I used the oil I did because it was handy and about like machine oil or 3 in 1 oil. So, the oil does nothing to impart or affect the color in the end? |
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Sure I've used Marvel mystery oil, first time probably 50 years ago; but only in cars!
The mystery is why is it red. JMHO.;) |
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Those locking lugs around the chamber were a PITA to get clean... :soapbox: |
I have used oil and generally NOT used oil.
I have also had the brightest, yellowish trigger this side of Oz too... |
Nice write up dnickels, I did what you said (450 degrees for 20 minutes). It worked like a charm!
http://i.imgur.com/nzUoUUO.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/DGEXnRm.jpg?1 |
Nice work.
The beauty of straw, besides the appearance, is that if you get it wrong you can do it over! |
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