1902 Carbine Stock Attachment Photos...

[Dean]

Hi Rick, Saw your earlier post regarding barrel fabrication in another part of the forum. Very interesting.

Just a reminder, I am going for a 16 in barrel length. So this is not a true copy of the carbine.

Picked up signed FFl today. Gun should be here soon.

John, you mentioned trouble cycling a 16in barrel. Is a softer recoil spring an option?
How are others dealing with this?

I am now of the opinion that I should start with one of the pre-contoured barrel blanks.

Rick, Here is my first draft of the operation:

1) Install pre-contoured barrel blank (muzzle first) through the chuck, to the point where the chuck jaws can purchase on the flat portion of the breech end of the blank. This portion is about 2.5-3.0 inches depending on barrel manufacturer.

2) Machine breech end to rough outer dimensions of threaded area. The region of threaded area is purposefully made longer than required as the breech face will be trimmed later.

3) Reconfigure Atlas for 20 tpi threading Install properly ground threading tool.
Do some test threads on some scrap bar stock
to ensure tool is secured and aligned.

4) Cut threads on barrel. Feed towards chuck. Be fast on the feed switch to stop threads just short of the flange Threads are cut in several passes. As I get close, I test fit onto the Luger upper reciever. I want a tight fit.(fitment of threads is compared to original barrel at this point). Cut threads too deep? Barrel is trashed.

5) Reconfigure Atlas for machining. Trim breech face to proper profile. The length of the threaded portion is now very close to that of the original barrel.

Note: I'm making some educated guesses regarding the next few steps.

5) Study face of flange on original barrel. John's blueprint shows a compression backcut for normal ordinance steel (.1mm x.6mm). My barrel and action are stainless and this back cut may be different in this case, as the interference fit might be different for this material. Cut the face of the flange square.

6) Thread original barrel back onto the reciever, until the flage contacts the reciever Note the offset of the alignment marks. Also note position of extractor cut-out and feed reed ramp.

7) Thread new barrel onto reciever as above. Mark my new alignment mark at the same offset that the original barrel has. Index and mark extractor and feedramp cutouts.

8) Remove barrel, cut extracter and feed ramp
(method to be determined)

9) If required, the face of the flange can be trimed such that the new barrel "lines up" like the old barrel with regard to the alignment mark. Once this is correct, the proper back cut is made on the face of the flange. The breech face must also be cut so we have the same distance from the flange face to the breech face as the original barrel

10) Remove barrel and flip it around. Set up live center on tailstock. Cut and blend contour as desired. Belt sand, polish.

11) Cut muzzle of barrel to final length

12) Chamber Barrel. Mic distance from the breech face to the chamber ridge on original barrel. Cut chamber in new barrel with reamer, mic often to check distance of ridge as we progress with the reamer.

13) Install front and rear sights (method to be determined)

14) Install "accelerator" lug on bottom of barrel (method to be determined).

Install barrel:

1) Chill barrel in freezer. Heat upper reciever in oven (temperature to be determined, check metallurgy book).

2) With leather gloves, quickly mount barrel in chuck of vise (with clam shell halves).

3) Mount action in wrench, tighten until index marks align.

Sound good?