Q about 'macro' camera settings

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Olle

...the G11 is one hell of a camera, there's one for sale right now for $50 and that's the one I would pick...

I paid for dental work last month, school taxes this month, and have home insurance due next month. More dental in November so it'll be December before I can afford another big purchase ($50 will turn into a couple hundred pretty quickly). By then G11's might be filling up eBay and I can take my pick. The G3-X is still being sold in stores; I haven't read up on them so I don't know what the story is there.

CRS = "Can't Remember Crap". Otherwise known as Old Timer's Disease (not to be confused with Alzheimers).

Edit: A 'Pawn Shop' (the only one) opened this year in the Big City, I haven't visited it but maybe that might be an interesting place to look at cameras...

Edit 2: Here's a 'First Impressions' of the G3-X, which it says just went on sale this year [2015] @ $999. The specs mean nothing to me, but it sounds too new to show up at my prices...

http://www.dpreview.com/articles/567...u-need-to-know

Edit 3: BTW, before digital cameras, I used (and still have) a Canon AV-1 SLR w/55mm lens [so it says]. It came with a neat little booklet with instructions for setting it for pretty much any situation. I hope the newer Canons come with a similar booklet.

[4 Scale]

I pretty much agree with everything Ollie has said, and as you know I also have a G11. I have owned several G models over the years. Please note we are saying pretty much the same thing. My background is I shot pro for local newspapers working my way through college and still do some pro work on occasion for fun.

G3-X is a new intro $1,000 camera; G3 came out in 2002 they are starting over with naming.

If you want to read up on various Canon cameras, you are on the right track with DPReview. You can look at all the Canon cameras in one place, here

http://www.dpreview.com/camerareviews?sort=brand

Sorting by brand. You'll find both the G3-X, G3, G11 and all the other G models over the years and can read for hours if you want. IMO, virtually any Canon G is a fine tool to photograph firearms.

Given your comments, my suggestion: decide how much you want to spend then peruse Ebay and the DP Review site until you find a Canon G that meets your price point/comfort level. Then, when you get it spend a few hours learning the camera and you'll find your photos get much better. Cameras are just like Lugers- learn, buy a basic pre-owned one (with Lugers of course they are all pre-owned), keep learning. With photography you don't need to invest in a big book library, between the web and your local library you can learn what you need.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by 4 Scale

I pretty much agree with everything Ollie has said....virtually any Canon G is a fine tool to photograph firearms.

Greg, neither you nor Olle have commented on my original question (way back on pg 1 ): Do these cameras eliminate/reduce the bending effect???

[4 Scale]

Actually several posters have already provided excellent advice on controlling distortion AKA bent barrel, but I will be glad to recap. There are two easy ways:

1. Frame the pistol in the viewfinder. It's when the barrel is near the top or bottom of the frame that it seems to bend. Looking in the viewfinder keep the lens parallel to the gun but move the camera around until the barrel appears straight. As you move the camera to put the barrel near the top then bottom of the frame, you will actually see the barrel bend one way, then the other. You want the center position where it is in-between and shows no bend. Take the picture at that point, then crop and enlarge the image on your computer as needed to make it big enough.

2. Or, take the photo from farther away then crop and enlarge on your computer.

FWIW I just tested both these methods using my Canon G11 before responding, which verifies that the technique is correct but that the G11 does not automatically eliminate this type of distortion. Some better cameras actually do control distortion via software in the camera. There are also expensive cameras and lenses that optically eliminate distortion, used in studio or architectural photography but those are costly and complex. There is also image software for your computer that can eliminate distortion. But given your budget it might be best to stick with the two approaches above.

[4 Scale]

Here are some results. Please forgive the lighting, I'm just trying to show distortion correction method #1 from my previous post.

Actually the Luger pistol design tends to understate barrel distortion because the top silhouette of the pistol is very busy, broken up with receiver, toggle, toggle knobs etc. The barrel exhibits visible bend in the top photo, when shown at the top of the frame. In the second photo it is straighter. You can actually lay a ruler on the photos using three reference marks like the front sight and bottom of the toggle and safety lever, and measure less bend in the second photo. While the "straight" picture is not perfect, it actually illustrates another important technique - if you want one good photo, take many more (20?) from various positions, then pick the best. I just took just two pictures to make my point.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Dwight Gruber

The effect is called barrel distortion...

Originally Posted by 4 Scale

Actually several posters have already provided excellent advice...There is also image software for your computer that can eliminate distortion...

Yes, my PSP 10.2 has this software function, but I didn't know the name of the effect to find the instructions...

But I was wondering if the camera itself had the ability to 'straighten out' the image before processing...

[sheepherder]

And here's a rough 'barrel distortion correction' of my original pic on pg 1, done with PSP 10.2...

Still a crappy pic, but now I have an idea of how to straighten the bend...

My Thanks! to Dwight, Olle, Ron, Norm, Greg, and all who commented...