Reloading help for the .30 cal.

sheepherder · 07-18-2014, 10:10 AM

Just for S&G, I'll repeat a couple comments I've made in other threads on cartridge conversions...

- I form my 7.65 Parabellum cases (and 7.63 Mauser as well) from .223 Remington commercial [not 5.56 military] in the RCBS '30 Luger' sizing die, after roughly cutting to length. I then trim to length in a Forster case trimmer.

- Winchester brass is a softer alloy than Remington or others; it will form easier and more often.

- Military cases are a harder alloy and have thicker case walls. They can be formed but may require neck reaming and will crack sooner than commercial brass, after repeated reloadings. The circle primer crimp will also have to be reamed.

- Use lots of lube when forming. STP (at auto stores) is an acceptable substitute for case lube.

07-18-2014, 10:10 AM	#10
sheepherder Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal... Posts: 8,195 Thanks: 1,413 Thanked 4,462 Times in 2,336 Posts	Just for S&G, I'll repeat a couple comments I've made in other threads on cartridge conversions... - I form my 7.65 Parabellum cases (and 7.63 Mauser as well) from .223 Remington commercial [not 5.56 military] in the RCBS '30 Luger' sizing die, after roughly cutting to length. I then trim to length in a Forster case trimmer. - Winchester brass is a softer alloy than Remington or others; it will form easier and more often. - Military cases are a harder alloy and have thicker case walls. They can be formed but may require neck reaming and will crack sooner than commercial brass, after repeated reloadings. The circle primer crimp will also have to be reamed. - Use lots of lube when forming. STP (at auto stores) is an acceptable substitute for case lube. __________________ I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter... Last edited by sheepherder; 07-18-2014 at 03:40 PM.