First Luger! 1936 s/42 and some questions

mrerick · 03-22-2014, 06:14 AM

Properly done, well oiled 0000 fine steel wool or oiled bronze wool will not damage the blued finish if you use it correctly.

The issue is relative hardness.

The dark blue-black magnetite form of iron oxide is very hard and dense compared to the red oxide rust form of iron oxide. While the magnetite is hard, and rust is soft, the thickness of bluing is only about 2 to 2 1/2 microns. it's a surface conversion of the steel.

Spots of rust will eventually form pitting through the metal surface. That's why you don't want it growing. That said, it's normal to find the red form of iron oxide visible in the surface of a 75 year old firearm. In fact, if you don't see it you suspect a refinish.

Steel wool is as hard as the in the white steel in the gun, give or take a bit for the different alloys involved. It is harder than the rust iron oxide, and softer than the blue-black magnetite. That's why it can be used to remove the rust without damaging the blued finish.

The key is to not be too aggressive in the process.

If you want to try it, find a non-visible area under the grips and start out well oiled and gentle.

Using a cloth that is oiled would also work, but require more rubbing, possibly generate heat in the process and possibly cause abrasion marks if it's got any grit or dirt in it.

In the materials world, hard cuts soft - not the other way around!

03-22-2014, 06:14 AM	#11
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,920 Thanks: 1,377 Thanked 3,135 Times in 1,518 Posts	Properly done, well oiled 0000 fine steel wool or oiled bronze wool will not damage the blued finish if you use it correctly. The issue is relative hardness. The dark blue-black magnetite form of iron oxide is very hard and dense compared to the red oxide rust form of iron oxide. While the magnetite is hard, and rust is soft, the thickness of bluing is only about 2 to 2 1/2 microns. it's a surface conversion of the steel. Spots of rust will eventually form pitting through the metal surface. That's why you don't want it growing. That said, it's normal to find the red form of iron oxide visible in the surface of a 75 year old firearm. In fact, if you don't see it you suspect a refinish. Steel wool is as hard as the in the white steel in the gun, give or take a bit for the different alloys involved. It is harder than the rust iron oxide, and softer than the blue-black magnetite. That's why it can be used to remove the rust without damaging the blued finish. The key is to not be too aggressive in the process. If you want to try it, find a non-visible area under the grips and start out well oiled and gentle. Using a cloth that is oiled would also work, but require more rubbing, possibly generate heat in the process and possibly cause abrasion marks if it's got any grit or dirt in it. In the materials world, hard cuts soft - not the other way around! __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.