KGP68A needs some repair

[ithacaartist]

Hi Henry,

The alloy is called Zamak, an acronym for "zinc, aluminum, magnesium, and copper". Theoretically, it can be repaired by TIG welding with proper filler material, but working with this diecast stuff is always a crapshoot. Repair/refurbishment of the actual finish on the frame will also be problematic. (I've acquired a quantity of commercial zinc blackener which I will try out on a couple of mine, if the trial run of broken toggle parts turns out acceptably.) I think if you found a competent engraver who would deign to work on Zamak, that the numbers could be re-established after the surfaces are worked down enough to look good again--but you may wind up paying more for this part of the restore than the gun is worth. The Barrel is the regular dip blue finish, so no problem with refinishing it or other parts in the upper--it's just the grip frame on this model that is Zamak

By a "good price", I hope you mean no more than a couple of hundred bucks. One with the finish lost in similar areas, without the pitting/cancer I'd give up to $250; nice finish except for edge/holster wear or maybe some scratches, about $300-325; Good finish and function, $350; great shape, maybe box and accoutrements, up to about $400. I feel that most of the listings on G.B. are over-optimistic, as the prices asked and reserves (Check out the Et.22s offered, Expectations of selling for well over $500 are apparent, but the Et is simply a glorified Ep, with the longer barrel. They generally function about the same, which can be a bit of a disappointment if you're after a dependably-functioning shooter.) are at the lower end for an original, actual Luger shooter; but these do have some collector value, particularly NIB. Overall reputation for function of the Erma Luger wannabes is a tad sketchy (mag and ammo sensitive, tenuous spring balance), but mostly concerning the earlier La, Ep, and Et.22 models which are made almost entirely of cast Zamak. The later KGP models--68 (if you can find one), 68A and 69 tend to work a lot better, and their lines are more similar to actual Lugers.