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#1 |
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Hello I am wondering if anyone knows where I can get a bolt hold open, with a gothic S and a specific number I need on it? This would be a repro piece.
Please let me know Thanks for helping with my restoration! |
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#2 |
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Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
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I am sorry, several questions;
a bolt hold open - you mean the hold open that goes into the frame and holds the toggle open after last shot? And buying a repro, having the S and the sn number on it is considered bad form to collectors..
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#3 |
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Yes that is exactly what I mean.
I agree it is considered bad form if its being sold and not disclosed as a restoration with these changes. However since I am the collector and restorer it's a non issue. That being said if I were to ever sell it which I am not, I would disclose this as being a restored gun with this change etc. much like we see some dealers do in their listings. Thanks! |
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#4 |
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Here is the tricky part. The 1st seller will be honest, but the 2nd seller does not have to be. If the 3rd seller had bought it as a real one, then he had obligation to defend and prove it's "real". All the trick is to make it as real as possible. Nothing can prevent this from happening. Market driven.
On a foreign forum, I heard a stereotype saying "western people only do honest business". Well, I agree that most people in western world won't cheat on $5 milk, but for a $5,000 C&R, there are lots of possibilities. Depends on individual. |
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#5 |
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Alvin I see your point and agree with you.
My issue is the part I have in the gun is 1 digit off from the number it should be. It is marked correctly and a correct part but I'm not sure why one part having the correct "S" marking would be one digit off? Assembled wrong possibly? Ed and Alvin You both have great points and she will stay as she is... However I am curious as to what you think about my mismatched part and how it came to be? Have you seen this before? I'm sure someone didn't go through the effort of buying the gun, realizing the part wasn't matched and then searching high and low for a gothic s marked part that is one digit away from His. Poss arsenal issue or? Thanks! |
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#6 |
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May we see pictures of the marks?
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#7 |
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#8 |
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here is a pic of the part, its off one digit should be 72
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#9 |
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Is this the #71 hold open on the #72 gun mentioned in the other forum? It might be an assembly mistake, or stamping mistake. No way to know. If in its collector stage, someone had bothered installing a "correct" S marked part on it, why didn't he number it to #72 to make it matching? Surely this installation happened in its tool's stage. There are people who could weld up the 1, and put a 2 on top of that without affecting that tiny neighboring "S" and "7", but I would suggest leaving it as is.
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#10 | |
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I agree however does this make this K date less valuable to the collector because of this? |
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#11 |
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Yes. Less value. But it also comes lower. And, this #71 hold open gives me confidence that the numbers on other parts had not been doctored by professionals. I had C96 #974 with matching stock acquired from an auction house. Original all matching except the safety lever was numbered #874. God knows how could this happen. But not a big deal, it is what it is.
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I would agree that this is a factory mistake and part of the gun's character. Many collectors would offer less for this mistake, others would not let it bother them, as it appears to have been a factory produced anomalie.
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#13 |
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It certainly wouldn't bother me
![]() I thought I had an S-coded holdopen somewhere in my parts bin, but it seems it already found a use somewhere. Did find a regular-S coded sear, though. |
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#14 |
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A tempest in a teapot. So few K dates..Internal part. Like Gerben..would not bother me one whit. YOU don't care about value..you're not going to sell it. I would be extremely happy to have a K date like this. Don't worry about it. If it had a mismatched sideplate then it would be different.
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