How to ream a #2 Morse taper

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Olle

Are you saying that you can cut a taper by running the x and y feed simultaneously...or use the compound for steeper and shorter tapers.

I now use the compound rest for all my tapers.

But I've mused about hooking up a motor & cog belt to run it. A 5" taper Luger barrel takes quite a bit of time; my cheapo motor doesn't have the grunt to take off more than .015" of steel at a time...

[Olle]

Originally Posted by postino

I now use the compound rest for all my tapers.

But I've mused about hooking up a motor & cog belt to run it. A 5" taper Luger barrel takes quite a bit of time; my cheapo motor doesn't have the grunt to take off more than .015" of steel at a time...

How much travel do you have in the compound? I can only run maybe 1 1/2" - 2" on mine, so it's not enough for any longer pieces, like barrels and such. Or do you cut it one section at a time?

I'm not sure if you can contol a motor precisely enough to cut tapers, seems like you need something pretty advanced to make the compound screw run perfectly syncronized with the lead screw. A stepper motor controlled by a reader on the lead screw would be one solution, but then you're pretty much half way to CNC. You could, of course, use a half nut, a change gear arrangement, a spider gear, cog belt etc to do it mechanically, but this would be an engineering nightmare.

And .015" doesn't sound too bad, I usually try and stay under .010" (using HSS cutters). I can cut more than that, but it will get pretty darn hot at the RPMs I like to use. I just love getting whipped by a hot wad of swarf when it gets wound up and thrown at me.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Olle

How much travel do you have in the compound?

Three inches.

I can only run maybe 1 1/2" - 2" on mine, so it's not enough for any longer pieces, like barrels and such. Or do you cut it one section at a time?

I cut the entire taper .015" at a time. Just move the table down and pick up my zero.

I'm not sure if you can contol a motor precisely enough to cut tapers, seems like you need something pretty advanced to make the compound screw run perfectly syncronized with the lead screw

Why would I need any synchronization??? My manual feed [my hand] isn't synchronized...

I just love getting whipped by a hot wad of swarf when it gets wound up and thrown at me.

Yeah...A nice long snake that suddenly whips around...Heh...

Here's one for you...I have a replacement engine for my infamous riding lawn mower; it has an exhaust pipe with a 1" male pipe thread for the muffler...The threads are all rusty, I can't get the new muffler on...It's a tight 90º bend, how do I chase the threads???

It won't unscrew without breaking the cast iron cylinder (don't ask me how I know) and there's not enough room for a conventional pipe threader...

Anyone have any ideas???

[Olle]

Originally Posted by postino

Why would I need any synchronization??? My manual feed [my hand] isn't synchronized...

My bad, I meant the cross feed, not the compound feed. If you can make the cross feed sychronized with the lead screw, you would be able to cut long tapers without any effort.

Originally Posted by postino

Here's one for you...I have a replacement engine for my infamous riding lawn mower; it has an exhaust pipe with a 1" male pipe thread for the muffler...The threads are all rusty, I can't get the new muffler on...It's a tight 90º bend, how do I chase the threads???

It won't unscrew without breaking the cast iron cylinder (don't ask me how I know) and there's not enough room for a conventional pipe threader...

Anyone have any ideas???

I would try a thread file ( http://tetoolsusa.com/tools/index.ph...25ce84fd19842c ). You can also use a triangular needle file, it has the correct 60 degree angle for this. It's easier than it sounds, the file will follow the thread easily and the rust will be your "layout dye" to show you when you have cut deep enough. It's a bit tedious, but I have fixed many old car parts by simply filing the threads.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Olle

I would try a thread file...

I may do that...Travers does have a hexagonal 1" pipe die, but my last order just came (#2 MT reamer!) and I don't really need anything else right now...I do need to make a trip to Sears, maybe they have one...I could probably rent one of those ratcheting pipe threaders from a rent-all place...Throw the engine in the back of the Xterra...Heh..."How much to rent a 1" pipe threader for 5 minutes?"...

Take longer to fill out the paperwork than chase the threads...

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by postino

I may do that...Travers does have a hexagonal 1" pipe die, but my last order just came (#2 MT reamer!) and I don't really need anything else right now...I do need to make a trip to Sears, maybe they have one...I could probably rent one of those ratcheting pipe threaders from a rent-all place...Throw the engine in the back of the Xterra...Heh..."How much to rent a 1" pipe threader for 5 minutes?"...

Take longer to fill out the paperwork than chase the threads...

postie, try a fabricating shop. Most are used to weird, short requests, and probably have the 1" tapered pipe die.