Bad extractor or bad ammo?

[Ron Wood]

The extractor is the proper type for a M1900. It is a spring itself, so there is no additional spring under it. It used to be very difficult to find replacements for them, but now some good quality reproductions are being produced. I doubt your extractor needs replaced (at least until it breaks, which hopefully won't happen ).
From your photos, it looks like your extraction problems may stem from the chamber. It looks pretty nasty with lots of pitting. A gunsmith may be able to polish it up a bit, but if that doesn't work, I would think the only alternatives would be a barrel reline or another replacement.

[rhuff]

Greg,

What does the tip of your extractor look like? I have had a couple of original extractors that broke off one "leg" of the extractor, or broke the rim of the extractor tip. Give it a good look, and put in a new spring. If your extractor is faulty, then replace it with a good one.....they are not difficult to obtain.

[zzsql]

Originally Posted by Ron Wood

The extractor is the proper type for a M1900. It is a spring itself, so there is no additional spring under it. It used to be very difficult to find replacements for them, but now some good quality reproductions are being produced. I doubt your extractor needs replaced (at least until it breaks, which hopefully won't happen ).
From your photos, it looks like your extraction problems may stem from the chamber. It looks pretty nasty with lots of pitting. A gunsmith may be able to polish it up a bit, but if that doesn't work, I would think the only alternatives would be a barrel reline or another replacement.

Thanks but I'm almost certain it's not an extractor issue.
Even with a weapon tool (Car key lol) it's difficult to pry the spent casing out of the chamber.

Any extractor would have issues removing the shell with that friction.

I'll have to find an experienced luger gunsmith.

Know one of those?

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by Ron Wood

I would think the only alternatives would be a barrel reline or another replacement.

Ron, I'm remembering the fairly recent post about micro-welding. If these people can do something for this situation, it might be worth it to build up the pits with this process, and polish/ream the chamber to effectively refresh its surface. A Re-barrel would cost the replacement barrel plus the labor (presumably by G.T., at this point) to do the changeover. Total would conceivable be several hundred dollars, and from what we were shown as the work done for about ~ $450 on that P-38 (?) part, the chamber may cost less to fix. I'm just sayin' it might be worth checking out.