What to look for to determine re-furbishing

ithacaartist · 07-11-2012, 02:13 PM

Wouldn't a hot dip blue usually result in this finish inside and out? The pic showing the mag well, and another looking down into the gullet of the action, appear to show that the inside of the frame is in the white. This is one criterion for verifying rust bluing. Another, I guess, would be general color--don't rust blued guns look "bluer" than hot salt dipped guns, which tend to look "blacker" in comparison?

There may be other telltale places which indicate of suggest rebluing--like the tip of the Luger's toggle axle retaining pin shows that these parts, at least, were blued while assembled if it is blued, whereas factory original parts were blued, then assembled, leaving the exposed tip of the pin on top of the toggle knob in the white. Just one thing to check. Another would be the texture of the surfaces of the gun under 10x magnification. You'd see evidence of it if the gun had been washed over by glass bead blasting. You'd get the most accurate story on the timing of those stampings, etc.

Is there a Nambu forum? If so, and they are half as great as the crowd here, you're in business!

DP

p.s. Hundreds, right?

07-11-2012, 02:13 PM	#24
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,374 Thanks: 7,447 Thanked 2,613 Times in 1,380 Posts	Wouldn't a hot dip blue usually result in this finish inside and out? The pic showing the mag well, and another looking down into the gullet of the action, appear to show that the inside of the frame is in the white. This is one criterion for verifying rust bluing. Another, I guess, would be general color--don't rust blued guns look "bluer" than hot salt dipped guns, which tend to look "blacker" in comparison? There may be other telltale places which indicate of suggest rebluing--like the tip of the Luger's toggle axle retaining pin shows that these parts, at least, were blued while assembled if it is blued, whereas factory original parts were blued, then assembled, leaving the exposed tip of the pin on top of the toggle knob in the white. Just one thing to check. Another would be the texture of the surfaces of the gun under 10x magnification. You'd see evidence of it if the gun had been washed over by glass bead blasting. You'd get the most accurate story on the timing of those stampings, etc. Is there a Nambu forum? If so, and they are half as great as the crowd here, you're in business! DP p.s. Hundreds, right?