Toggle crack

[ithacaartist]

George,
It's not a big problem, though a little involved, to remove the rear link from the toggle train. The pin on which the links pivot is held in by a retaining pin. This pin is visible in your pic of the crack. Its end is the little dot on top of the left toggle grip/knob. One would carefully tap the retaining pin out until it ceases to hold in the linkage pin, which is then removed laterally to release the parts from the joint. Soak for as long as possible in penetrant (these parts may not have been removed for 90+ years!), use punches that fit and do not mar, and clamp the work in a padded vise--again, so as not to mar any finish.
Using a stand-in link for shooting should be OK, but you may have to go thru the above process repeatedly, unless you leave the alternate in place indefinitely. Otherwise it's in for shooting, out for storage/show, etc.

[Thor]

Here is the one I ran across.

[Vlim]

You see Swiss lugers with replaced rear toggle links quite regularly, so I guess it was not uncommon to replace them. The Swiss really used their lugers well, I remember reading about a shooting test where a Parabellum pistol was literally shot to pieces in an endurance trial.

[geopop71]

Another solution is an entire toggle? That would be a lot easier to replace. Just out of curiosity, my son has a luger, I will just try the whole thing from his pistol. How expencive is a whole toggle? It dosn't seem too hard to replace the one piece from your instruction's! I had no idea as to how to procede with that. I am very mech savvy, and could do the change.
Good info Thank's again--- George

Changing the entire toggle would be just to shoot of course!

[geopop71]

I have a Luger mag old WW one style wooden bottom, silver body, Any one with a blued steel and aluminum bottom need a ww one mag and would like to trade, I would like one for my holster when I get one, number doesn't matter. serial # of the wooden one is 1964. send me a pm if interested.
George

[cdmech]

I see stuff like this for sale on ebay from time to time.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/German-P08-L...item43adb8860e
This is the way you normally take the gun apart to clean it anyway, and would be a simple way to shoot your gun.
I would see about buying the parts from Tom Heller here on this forum. Highly recommended.
Marc

[lugerholsterrepair]

I have a Luger mag old WW one style wooden bottom, silver body, Any one with a blued steel and aluminum bottom need a ww one mag and would like to trade, I would like one for my holster when I get one, number doesn't matter. serial # of the wooden one is 1964. send me a pm if interested.
George

George, PM sent..
Jerry

[LugerMan.com]

Hi,
I guess I get all the bad ones ;0)

I have seen the crack posted several times as well as a crack posted by Thor.
I have a bout 4-5 in my bad parts bin.

And yes I have tried to TIG weld them, but it never looked right to me.

I do not think they happen from firing.

I do see them mostly on early DWM Lugers, because the toggles where tempered.
As well as some Mauser guns for the same reason.

I think it happens when people try to hammer out the middle toggle pin , without remembering or knowing to remove the toggle pin retainer, that we all love so much ....
It's one of the mostly common ordered parts on the list.


Do not use the toggle, if you do not have money for a cosmetic face reconstruction surgery...

Get a new one.

Thanks.

[geopop71]

I checked the Ebay add, $150.00 and counting! I kinda figgered it would be expensive! I'll keep looking! Gonna check my local gun shop today!
George

[geopop71]

I would never shoot this in the condition it is in. What amazes me is that the crack developed weeks after being fired! I know because I examin it almost every day! I can imagine what would happen if the toggle left the gun while shooting it!
George