New Stocks and Stock Irons

[Sieger]

Originally Posted by Ron Wood

It is perfectly obvious, but perhaps worth noting for folks that are new to fitting a stock iron...you do not remove any metal from the gun!...only from the iron. Usually the depth of the "channel" in the iron is too shallow and binds up when attempting to attach it to the gun. You need to remove material from the bottom of the channel. Some folks attempt to do this with a Dremel tool, but that is a bit hard to control. The best tool for the job is called a "riffler" file and can be obtained from places like Brownells, but also are usually available at good hobby stores and specialty hardware stores.
It doesn't take too long to remove enough metal to get a good fit. Take it a little at a time. A final polish with some 600 grit emory paper wrapped around the riffler makes the assembly smoother and a little cold blue makes it pretty (pretty only lasts a little while since installing the stock quickly wears through the blue).

Ron:

As always, thanks for your valuable insight and information!

My prior three irons didn't really have a problem slipping onto the frame lung fully. Their problem was latching fully. The thumb latches wouldn't close all of the way, snuggly. My friend, somehow, disassembled these three and removed just enough metal, from the irons, for them to snug up nicely and latch completely to the frame lungs.

Have you ever had a problem with an iron fully latching before?


Sieger

[Sieger]

Originally Posted by Rick W.

I have had a few of the CMR models of irons. While not super duper, they all did slip onto the Luger arty grip of the day. The curved T-slot's elongated dimension was ok for my needs.

However none of them would begin to latch up. Then I thought, these are hand fitted things. The latch has a cylinder that engages the slot in the back of the Luger grip. It has to rotate from a flat position(to slide it on/off), and as the latch is rotated the cylinder engages the slot on the grip to a morer or lesser degree; depending on fitment.

Kinda makes sense to me that the cylinder's diameter is oversized, it would look like that one can address that himself to fit a particular grip frame. I cannot see the need or want to alter the Luger's grip itself.

The CMR modes have a form of detent to hold the cylinder of the iron in position axially, probably not nice to have the pistol fall off onto the concrete.

The basic stock iron is kinda a hard piece for the average guy to make(Postino project?) as it has a curved T-slot. I have seen the tooling in another posting on the net that does such, but way beyond my basic skills and tooling.

Hi:

Thanks!!!

Yes, I can remember that now.

I think all that I will need, if the irons do, indeed, slip easily onto my lungs, is to lightly and carefully stone down the "cylinders" until they just barely latch fully and snuggly shut.

You are right; as I'd like to be shooting my LP-08 and have the stock fly off of it!! Perhaps, I could even arrange to have this awful signt on You-Tube. By the way, if you do want some good laughs, search "Luger Shooting" on You-Tube and just sit back and enjoy the "action"!!!

Thanks!!

Sieger

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Rick W.

Postino has always been generous with his pictures on how to do's, thought he might have an idea or two on fabrication of the stock iron piece.

Not really...I do keyseat cutting and/or "T" slots, but a curved "T" slot is something that I've never tried...Can't even imagine how to do it...

[A.Mifsin]

Originally Posted by postino

Not really...I do keyseat cutting and/or "T" slots, but a curved "T" slot is something that I've never tried...Can't even imagine how to do it...

A friend of mine once has done one for the artillery, someday I will ask how he has done it and he used hand tools, he told me.
Alf.