Rust Bluing

[timn]

Originally Posted by lfid

probably basic - but these I havent seen discussed anywhere ...

anybody know the best way to protect the barrel bore/rifling/chamber from any damage during the repetitive solution / boiling steps in rust blue process ?

Bill, there is no need to worry about the bore and chamber. You are not soaking or wetting the surface enough to run.
The solution is wiped on with a slightly damp cotton ball. Q tips are used to get nto corners.Also, the bore is polished out to such a smooth surface that it won't blue.
If you look down a barrel that has just come out of a hot bluing bath, you will find it shiny.

That said, if you plan on fume bluing, the barrel and chamber must be plugged.

how did dwm achieve the bright interior surfaces that seem to show no overflow of the solution during application ?

See above. The all you do is lightly dampen the surface. If it runs, you have applied about 10 times too much.

what is range of polishing for excellent bluing result - ie say 400 grit paper thru chrome like shine ?

Most all early rust blued pieces were polished to 320-400.
I'm talking about a true polished surface. A piece of steel actually polished to a 400 grit finish should be very shiny.

I did polish my 1911 to 600 but it took 11 trips of rusting/boiling/carding to get the result I wanted.

Do not use polishing wheels to get to your final polish. The RB solution need the peaks and valleys of a paper finish to work well.

best way to protect orignal proofs and other markings as much as possible ?

If the marks look good after sanding, the process will not degrade them.

thanks
Bill

If you are seriously contemplating slow rust bluing, buy a small bottle of a good commercial solution. It will come with all the information you need.

One of the major factors determining the outcome is cleanliness.
The steel MUST be clean and oil free.
I use a mixture of Simple green and ammonia for basic cleaning.
A very hot water (180-200 degrees F) bath of TSP or dishwashing liquid in water helps to remove deeply imbedded oils. The small screw holes in receivers tend to hold minute bits of oil that will bleed onto the surface when you boil off the red oxide and ruin your hard work.

Rust bluing is not difficult. It takes patience and attention to each detail.
Practice on some small bits of scrap before you do your prized gun.

Good luck with your project.

Tim