Understanding NRA-Grading For Lugers ?

Can anyone steer me in the right direction to books and/or web-sites that might give a beginner an understanding of the NRA-grading terminolgy I see in many luger want ads ?


It seems that such grading may be very subjective. And as the proverbial fish gets bigger with each telling of the story, I am beginning to suspect some luger grading (by the seller) may get better with the selling...


Is there a definitive reference book that explains such grading and how such grading is assigned qualitatively/quantitatively ?


Thanks in advance for your help...


Pete

I can only give you a quick answer.


The NRA website http://www.nra.org/ gives the breakdown. And you are right, if the sellers stretch the truth...


And hopefully the NRA doesn't mind;


here is the standards:


NRA CONDITION STANDARDS FOR ANTIQUE FIREARMS

FACTORY NEW All original parts; 100% original finish; in perfect condition in every respect, inside and out.

EXCELLENT All original parts; over 80% original finish; sharp lettering, numerals and design on metal and wood; unmarred wood; fine bore.

FINE All original parts; over 30% original finish; sharp lettering, numerals and design on metal and wood; minor marks in wood; good bore.

VERY GOOD All original parts; none to 30% original finish; original metal surfaces smooth with all edges sharp; clear lettering, numerals and design on metal; wood slightly scratched or bruised; bore disregarded for collectors firearms.

GOOD Some minor replacement parts; metal smoothly rusted or lightly pitted in places, cleaned or reblued; principal letters, numerals and design on metal legible; wood refinished, scratched bruised or minor cracks repaired; in good working order.

FAIR Some major parts replaced; minor replacement parts may be required; metal rusted, may be lightly pitted all over, vigorously cleaned or reblued; rounded edges of metal and wood; principal lettering, numerals and design on metal partly obliterated; wood scratched, bruised, cracked or repaired where broken; in fair working order or can be easily repaired and placed in working order.

POOR Major and minor parts replaced; major replacement parts required and extensive restoration needed; metal deeply pitted; principal lettering, numerals and design obliterated, wood badly scratched, bruised, cracked or broken; mechanically inoperative; generally undesirable as a collector's firearm.


NRA CONDITION STANDARDS FOR MODERN FIREARMS

NEW Not previously sold at retail, in same condition as current factory production.

PERFECT In New condition in every respect.

EXCELLENT New condition, used but little, no noticeable marring of wood or metal, bluing perfect, (except at muzzle or sharp edges).

VERY GOOD In perfect working condition, no appreciable wear on working surfaces, no corrosion or pitting, only minor surface dents or scratches.

GOOD In safe working condition, minor wear on working surfaces, no broken parts, no corrosion or pitting that will interfere with proper functioning.

FAIR In safe working condition but well worn, perhaps requiring replacement of minor parts or adjustments which should be indicated in advertisement, no rust, but may have corrosion pits which do not render article unsafe or inoperable.


Ed

[Doug]

Get Fjestads Blue book to gun values. In the front they have a color photo grading section that will give you a good idea of how to grade guns.

The antique grading system should not be applied to the P08/P38/PP/PPk or other modern firearms.


If you were to put out 1 gun..and have 10 experts grade it, you would [probably] get 10 different descriptions that would make it sound like 10 differnent guns! It is totally subjective!


The Shadow Knows!!!!!

[Kyrie]

Hi Ed,


Excellent post - clear, succinct, and right on topic!


The only thing Iâ??d add is an antique firearm is one made before 1898. No Lugers or P.38â??s qualify as antiques - they are graded as modern firearms.


Best regards,


Kyrie