Receiver Measurements

Ron Wood · 11-22-2009, 06:18 PM

I am wondering if you could "pad" the jaws of the caliper with thin electricians tape to preclude any possibility of scratching the gun, and then "zero out" the caliper before taking the measurements? I would not think that the tape would compress enough to affect the measurement. Just a thought.

sheepherder · 11-22-2009, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Wood

I am wondering if you could "pad" the jaws of the caliper with thin electricians tape to preclude any possibility of scratching the gun...

Ron -

I would think that would only be a problem with a micrometer, not the caliper/vernier...The caliper/vernier will "zoom" in and out with thumb pressure on the travel wheel and you can read it while holding it against the receiver without moving it...while the mic needs to be moved in & out to get an accurate read...

A bit off topic, but here's another tipoff that someone has altered a serial...This is my Russian capture P38...You can see that the edge of the grip frame shows correct mill cutter tool marks, while the end of the slide and the base of the barrel show a fine ground surface...Someone has very painstakingly ground off a very shallow portion of these two surfaces...almost certainly to stamp the new serial...which is stamped very shallowly also...

sheepherder · 11-22-2009, 07:13 PM

BTW...Since some of us are cops, truckdrivers, accountants, and gourmet chefs...Here's a pic of a couple tools I use...my dial caliper (also called a dial vernier), two 1" micrometers, and a machinists spirit level (degree gradations are on other side)...The Brownie mic was my dads; the silver one I got at a flea market basically for pocket change...The mics are dusty and somewhat "patina'ed" from not being used for...decades...because of the dial vernier/caliper...The machinists level I got off eBay; I use it for installing barrels and front sights...

The micrometers work just like a "C" clamp; you hold the anvil against the work and twist the barrel down until the spindle hits the other side of the work...and slide it back and forth just putting very slight pressure against the work......

The dial caliper you can just push the jaws against the work and read the dial...and then release the jaws...

Disclaimer:...I am not a great machinist...At times I am a good machinist...Mostly I am a "good enough!" machinist...

(As in "Good enough for government work!")

11-22-2009, 06:18 PM	#1
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,051 Thanks: 1,119 Thanked 5,287 Times in 1,728 Posts	I am wondering if you could "pad" the jaws of the caliper with thin electricians tape to preclude any possibility of scratching the gun, and then "zero out" the caliper before taking the measurements? I would not think that the tape would compress enough to affect the measurement. Just a thought. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction