How to remove old paint?

Tony S. · 11-15-2007, 10:38 PM

I just got a Luger that looks like if someone spray painted the gun black (just the outside of the gun). However, the paint (if it is) is well attached to the metal of the gun (no flaking). It almost looks like baked black paint. In some areas the paint shows like if it was over sprayed! Anyway, any ideas in how to remove it? I will like to see if the original finish remains under the black coat of paint. I already used acetone and some weak paint stripper with negative results. I have a screw in gasoline to see if the stuff would come off.
"SEMPER PARATUS"

Nomadr · 11-15-2007, 10:51 PM

Tony,

It might be dipped? If it were paint the acetone would have worked! There is a way to remove the dip, but I'll let someone else give you some tips how. I've never done it.

Bob

Tony S. · 11-16-2007, 09:08 AM

Thanks. The gasoline did not work either. I will see what the experts have to say.
"SEMPER PARATUS"

Edward Tinker · 11-16-2007, 09:32 AM

Tony, not an expert.... the dip has supposedl;y come off with # 0000 steel wool and WD40 (even better is to use bronze steel wool). If paint, then who knows. I have used "Gunk-off" and it takes most stains and paints off of surfaces where it should not be.

If it was me, I'd use the most benign solvents to try to take off the paint, slowly working towards a paint stripper. I would use it in a place that is less likely to show later, i.e. under grips, grips, etc.

But I can about guarantee that any paint stripper will harm the finish.

Also, depends on the type of paint, any non-petrolium paint is harder to get off than the water based paints.

Ed

Ron Wood · 11-16-2007, 11:01 AM

Does your Luger have British proof marks? If it does, that black enamel that they use is really tough to remove. It took me 3 days with 0000 steel wool, acetone and I have forgotten what else to remove it from a Luger back in the 70's. But, on the other hand, once it was off, I had a 95% original finish lurking under there.

ken d · 11-16-2007, 05:22 PM

Tony:
Try Methyl ethyl ketone, available from Home Depot. Similar to acetone,
but stronger.

Regards

Ken D

Tony S. · 11-16-2007, 06:29 PM

No British proof marks. I really donÃ¢??t know what this stuff is, but it is tuff. Today, I did my testing on one of the screws. I used paint stripper used to removed epoxy, polyurethane, and paints; it did nothing. I even used an acetylene torch to see if the paint would flake or do something, nothing happened. I am starting to believe that this paint could be the same as that used to paint the tiles on the space shuttle!!! It is glossy too. I wonder if it could be the same paints used on barbeques. Anyway, I will continue to try. I will take a picture of one of the parts so you can see what I am talking about. It is a shame because it is a Mauser Banner 1939 E/L with matching mag. It appears that the gun was in fairly good shape before it was painted.
Ã¢??SEMPER PARATUSÃ¢?Â

Edward Tinker · 11-16-2007, 07:37 PM

You know Tony, it might be one of those baked on enamels, or one of those gun paint black chromes, they were popular 15 years or so ago?

Ed

Ron Smith · 11-16-2007, 09:18 PM

Sounds like stove black. It's fire proof, scratch proof and probably bullet proof.

DaveinTN · 11-17-2007, 10:08 AM

Tony,

Personally, I wouldn't know how to help you. However, it brings to mind a conversation I had some time ago with a newly wed couple.

I asked the new wife, "Well, what's it like being married to a PhD chemist?"

Laughing, she quickly replied, "Bill can take the stains out of anything!"

If you live near a university, I would suggest arranging for a chemist look at your pistol. Those guys love a challenge!

Good luck and have a good Thanksgiving!

Dave in TN.

azlaw · 11-18-2007, 11:29 PM

I've been tinkering with one of those Ishapore Enfields from India. I was originally parkerized, then painted with something thin and back, then painted with enamel that looked like it was applied with a mop.

I got the enamel off with paint stripper quit easily (BrakeKleen also worked, but was slower). Used Chemtool for the little parts. The thin black stuff is much tougher. I did manage to work it off a bit with BrakeKleen and a rag, but it was a lot of work. Ended up giving up as I didn't want to put in that much effort. MEK had no effect, nor did acetone. Nothing petroleum based either.

BTW - It takes some real gloves to stop of these chemicals, and I don't know what kind will work. Turns out that latex, neoprene, and nitrile all don't work. Owch.

H

Tony S. · 11-18-2007, 11:48 PM

Well, I decided that the easiest way was to remove the coat of what ever it was completely. So, the gun is now in the white. I just found out that Thor is not taking orders. I need to find some one that can do a good refinishing job (salt blue). Any suggestions?
Ã¢??SEMPER PARATUSÃ¢?Â

DaveinTN · 11-19-2007, 06:46 PM

Tony,

What means did you use to get it to the "white?" Chemical or mechanical (wire wheel?)

For a really good quality rust blue, you might contact Charles Danner Gunsmithing. Here's his website link:

http://www.dannergunsmithing.com/

Dave in TN.

Tony S. · 11-19-2007, 07:06 PM

The process was all chemical. It is all clean and ready for blueing. Thanks for the website link. I will see if he can do salt blue since this Luger's correct blue is the salt blue type.
"SEMPER PARATUS"

Lugerdoc · 11-21-2007, 09:21 AM

Tony, I think Ron Wood hit the nail on the head. I've seen many lugers with British proofs that had this baked on enamel finish. I would guess that they offer this refinish for a slight additional charge, as it does appear to be the same as the military finish on some British mags & rifles. Perhaps Tac can add some info. TH

11-15-2007, 10:38 PM	#1
Tony S. User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Virginia Posts: 173 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	How to remove old paint? I just got a Luger that looks like if someone spray painted the gun black (just the outside of the gun). However, the paint (if it is) is well attached to the metal of the gun (no flaking). It almost looks like baked black paint. In some areas the paint shows like if it was over sprayed! Anyway, any ideas in how to remove it? I will like to see if the original finish remains under the black coat of paint. I already used acetone and some weak paint stripper with negative results. I have a screw in gasoline to see if the stuff would come off. "SEMPER PARATUS"

11-16-2007, 11:01 AM	#5
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 6,988 Thanks: 1,067 Thanked 5,099 Times in 1,676 Posts	Does your Luger have British proof marks? If it does, that black enamel that they use is really tough to remove. It took me 3 days with 0000 steel wool, acetone and I have forgotten what else to remove it from a Luger back in the 70's. But, on the other hand, once it was off, I had a 95% original finish lurking under there. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

11-16-2007, 09:18 PM	#9
Ron Smith User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Orygun Posts: 4,243 Thanks: 118 Thanked 245 Times in 150 Posts	Sounds like stove black. It's fire proof, scratch proof and probably bullet proof. __________________ I Still Need DWM side plate #49... if anyone runs across a nice one. What ~Rudyard Kipling~ said...

11-21-2007, 09:21 AM	#15
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	Tony, I think Ron Wood hit the nail on the head. I've seen many lugers with British proofs that had this baked on enamel finish. I would guess that they offer this refinish for a slight additional charge, as it does appear to be the same as the military finish on some British mags & rifles. Perhaps Tac can add some info. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

11-15-2007, 10:51 PM	#2
Nomadr Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 276 Thanks: 16 Thanked 28 Times in 22 Posts	Tony, It might be dipped? If it were paint the acetone would have worked! There is a way to remove the dip, but I'll let someone else give you some tips how. I've never done it. Bob

11-16-2007, 09:08 AM	#3
Tony S. User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Virginia Posts: 173 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks. The gasoline did not work either. I will see what the experts have to say. "SEMPER PARATUS"

11-16-2007, 09:32 AM	#4
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,916 Thanks: 1,992 Thanked 4,507 Times in 2,081 Posts	Tony, not an expert.... the dip has supposedl;y come off with # 0000 steel wool and WD40 (even better is to use bronze steel wool). If paint, then who knows. I have used "Gunk-off" and it takes most stains and paints off of surfaces where it should not be. If it was me, I'd use the most benign solvents to try to take off the paint, slowly working towards a paint stripper. I would use it in a place that is less likely to show later, i.e. under grips, grips, etc. But I can about guarantee that any paint stripper will harm the finish. Also, depends on the type of paint, any non-petrolium paint is harder to get off than the water based paints. Ed

11-16-2007, 05:22 PM	#6
ken d Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: louisville ky Posts: 277 Thanks: 31 Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts	Tony: Try Methyl ethyl ketone, available from Home Depot. Similar to acetone, but stronger. Regards Ken D

11-16-2007, 06:29 PM	#7
Tony S. User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Virginia Posts: 173 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	No British proof marks. I really donÃ¢??t know what this stuff is, but it is tuff. Today, I did my testing on one of the screws. I used paint stripper used to removed epoxy, polyurethane, and paints; it did nothing. I even used an acetylene torch to see if the paint would flake or do something, nothing happened. I am starting to believe that this paint could be the same as that used to paint the tiles on the space shuttle!!! It is glossy too. I wonder if it could be the same paints used on barbeques. Anyway, I will continue to try. I will take a picture of one of the parts so you can see what I am talking about. It is a shame because it is a Mauser Banner 1939 E/L with matching mag. It appears that the gun was in fairly good shape before it was painted. Ã¢??SEMPER PARATUSÃ¢?Â

11-16-2007, 07:37 PM	#8
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,916 Thanks: 1,992 Thanked 4,507 Times in 2,081 Posts	You know Tony, it might be one of those baked on enamels, or one of those gun paint black chromes, they were popular 15 years or so ago? Ed

11-17-2007, 10:08 AM	#10
DaveinTN User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Tennessee Posts: 186 Thanks: 3 Thanked 15 Times in 11 Posts	Tony, Personally, I wouldn't know how to help you. However, it brings to mind a conversation I had some time ago with a newly wed couple. I asked the new wife, "Well, what's it like being married to a PhD chemist?" Laughing, she quickly replied, "Bill can take the stains out of anything!" If you live near a university, I would suggest arranging for a chemist look at your pistol. Those guys love a challenge! Good luck and have a good Thanksgiving! Dave in TN.

11-18-2007, 11:29 PM	#11
azlaw User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 204 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	I've been tinkering with one of those Ishapore Enfields from India. I was originally parkerized, then painted with something thin and back, then painted with enamel that looked like it was applied with a mop. I got the enamel off with paint stripper quit easily (BrakeKleen also worked, but was slower). Used Chemtool for the little parts. The thin black stuff is much tougher. I did manage to work it off a bit with BrakeKleen and a rag, but it was a lot of work. Ended up giving up as I didn't want to put in that much effort. MEK had no effect, nor did acetone. Nothing petroleum based either. BTW - It takes some real gloves to stop of these chemicals, and I don't know what kind will work. Turns out that latex, neoprene, and nitrile all don't work. Owch. H

11-18-2007, 11:48 PM	#12
Tony S. User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Virginia Posts: 173 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Well, I decided that the easiest way was to remove the coat of what ever it was completely. So, the gun is now in the white. I just found out that Thor is not taking orders. I need to find some one that can do a good refinishing job (salt blue). Any suggestions? Ã¢??SEMPER PARATUSÃ¢?Â

11-19-2007, 06:46 PM	#13
DaveinTN User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Tennessee Posts: 186 Thanks: 3 Thanked 15 Times in 11 Posts	Tony, What means did you use to get it to the "white?" Chemical or mechanical (wire wheel?) For a really good quality rust blue, you might contact Charles Danner Gunsmithing. Here's his website link: http://www.dannergunsmithing.com/ Dave in TN.

11-19-2007, 07:06 PM	#14
Tony S. User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Virginia Posts: 173 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	The process was all chemical. It is all clean and ready for blueing. Thanks for the website link. I will see if he can do salt blue since this Luger's correct blue is the salt blue type. "SEMPER PARATUS"