trigger travel

trigger · 10-11-2007, 03:28 PM

Hi again

I need some advice.
I would like to shorten the trigger travel a bit on my p-08.
A way to do it seems to be by putting a little strip of thin
metal betwen the frame and the Trigger bar. Se photo.
Is this a smart way to do it?

Grateful for your ideas

Kaj

Ron Wood · 10-11-2007, 03:50 PM

I'm no gunsmith, but it seems to me by doing that you are setting the rear of the sear bar out from the frame. That effectively reduces the depth of the sear that engages the firing pin. That would appear to me to create a less positive engagement which could result in the firing pin not being caught causing a slam fire (not sure that would happen since I don't think the firing pin has enough inertia to detonate the primer) or it might cause the firing pin to slip the sear without pulling the trigger and possibly lead to the gun going full auto.

There is an article by Mike Gorman in the "Shooting Times" edition of May 1974 that shows how to "tune" a Luger trigger by polishing the sear and using set screws to take up the creep and backlash in the trigger. This does modify the trigger so probably should be done with a spare trigger to preserve the original matching part.

I have three .jpg files of the article that are around 240 Kb in size. I do not know enough about copyright laws to know if it is legal to post them here on the forum but I could email them to you if you are interested. Just email me at rwood1@elp.rr.com and I can send them to you. This is for information purposes only and I assume no liability for any use of the information to alter a Luger.

John Sabato · 10-12-2007, 09:22 AM

Another possible solution to your question...I have had a similar problem with a matching luger some years ago, but modification of the sear is not the answer. Not wishing to modify the pistol I solved the problem by using some aluminum shim stock bent into an "L" shape with a good set of pliers that fit into the slot in the trigger where the sideplate trigger lever fits.

The short length of the L should be size to be a press fit into the bottom of the slot and the long end should be the same size as the length of the slot so it passes over the sideplate trigger lever.

once the correct size shim is determined it should eliminate the overtravel in your trigger... without modifying your pistol. The shim floats above the sideplate lever when the gun is assembled but does not interfere with its operation. Just be sure if you remove the sideplate that you don't lose your shim once you make it.

Dwight Gruber · 10-12-2007, 12:48 PM

Does anyone know, what was the original manufacturer or field armorer solution to this problem?

--Dwight

Ron Wood · 10-12-2007, 02:07 PM

I doubt that anyone back then even thought there was a problem. You do not encounter a match trigger on a combat weapon very often (except maybe for sniper rifles).

Vlim · 10-12-2007, 04:45 PM

The field fix was whacking the L-shape or the side plate with a large wooden mallet, probably.

And as Ron said, not really an issue when the other half of the world is not on your friends list.

Lugerdoc · 10-13-2007, 09:46 AM

GvV, I don't recomment trying to bend the L shaped trigger lever, as an original will break, before it will bend. Replacing this lever with one having a more open angle, with produce a "quicker" firing pin release, but too much of an angle will prevent the disconnector from reengaging between shots. The shim between the trigger slot and the lever, will yeild similar results, as would finding a trigger with a narrower slot. TH

trigger · 10-13-2007, 12:53 PM

So what would the difference be

a. put a shim between the trigger slot and the lever or
b. put a shim between the frame and the trigger bar or

kaj

John Sabato · 10-15-2007, 12:35 PM

b. changes the relationship between the sear and the cocked firing pin... a dangerous/hazardous change in my opinion.

10-11-2007, 03:28 PM	#1
trigger User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Sweden Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	trigger travel Hi again I need some advice. I would like to shorten the trigger travel a bit on my p-08. A way to do it seems to be by putting a little strip of thin metal betwen the frame and the Trigger bar. Se photo. Is this a smart way to do it? Grateful for your ideas Kaj Attached Images

10-11-2007, 03:50 PM	#2
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,035 Thanks: 1,106 Thanked 5,242 Times in 1,719 Posts	I'm no gunsmith, but it seems to me by doing that you are setting the rear of the sear bar out from the frame. That effectively reduces the depth of the sear that engages the firing pin. That would appear to me to create a less positive engagement which could result in the firing pin not being caught causing a slam fire (not sure that would happen since I don't think the firing pin has enough inertia to detonate the primer) or it might cause the firing pin to slip the sear without pulling the trigger and possibly lead to the gun going full auto. There is an article by Mike Gorman in the "Shooting Times" edition of May 1974 that shows how to "tune" a Luger trigger by polishing the sear and using set screws to take up the creep and backlash in the trigger. This does modify the trigger so probably should be done with a spare trigger to preserve the original matching part. I have three .jpg files of the article that are around 240 Kb in size. I do not know enough about copyright laws to know if it is legal to post them here on the forum but I could email them to you if you are interested. Just email me at rwood1@elp.rr.com and I can send them to you. This is for information purposes only and I assume no liability for any use of the information to alter a Luger. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

10-12-2007, 09:22 AM	#3
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,155 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,308 Times in 1,098 Posts	Another possible solution to your question...I have had a similar problem with a matching luger some years ago, but modification of the sear is not the answer. Not wishing to modify the pistol I solved the problem by using some aluminum shim stock bent into an "L" shape with a good set of pliers that fit into the slot in the trigger where the sideplate trigger lever fits. The short length of the L should be size to be a press fit into the bottom of the slot and the long end should be the same size as the length of the slot so it passes over the sideplate trigger lever. once the correct size shim is determined it should eliminate the overtravel in your trigger... without modifying your pistol. The shim floats above the sideplate lever when the gun is assembled but does not interfere with its operation. Just be sure if you remove the sideplate that you don't lose your shim once you make it. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

10-12-2007, 02:07 PM	#5
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,035 Thanks: 1,106 Thanked 5,242 Times in 1,719 Posts	I doubt that anyone back then even thought there was a problem. You do not encounter a match trigger on a combat weapon very often (except maybe for sniper rifles). __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

10-13-2007, 09:46 AM	#7
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 737 Times in 484 Posts	GvV, I don't recomment trying to bend the L shaped trigger lever, as an original will break, before it will bend. Replacing this lever with one having a more open angle, with produce a "quicker" firing pin release, but too much of an angle will prevent the disconnector from reengaging between shots. The shim between the trigger slot and the lever, will yeild similar results, as would finding a trigger with a narrower slot. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

10-12-2007, 12:48 PM	#4
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,908 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,330 Times in 435 Posts	Does anyone know, what was the original manufacturer or field armorer solution to this problem? --Dwight

10-12-2007, 04:45 PM	#6
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,053 Thanks: 1,036 Thanked 3,990 Times in 1,205 Posts	The field fix was whacking the L-shape or the side plate with a large wooden mallet, probably. And as Ron said, not really an issue when the other half of the world is not on your friends list.

10-13-2007, 12:53 PM	#8
trigger User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Sweden Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	So what would the difference be a. put a shim between the trigger slot and the lever or b. put a shim between the frame and the trigger bar or kaj

10-15-2007, 12:35 PM	#9
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,155 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,308 Times in 1,098 Posts	b. changes the relationship between the sear and the cocked firing pin... a dangerous/hazardous change in my opinion. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*