Boot Assembly For Shoulder Stock

lugerholsterrepair · 08-27-2007, 11:36 PM

Ronald, There are many points to look for to determine a real period stock boot from a repro. The stock boot is fairly complex and difficult to make with any degree of authenticity. I know because I make them. In my boots I use a leather liner. It is double thickness and a very good looking example, authentic in most respects from the outside but I do not mold in a rawhide cup. It is about the only original method I do not employ in making a complete Artillery rig.
I have never actually seen a decent repro boot. Most are made with a single leather thickness and the tabs and keepers are sewn not riveted with hand hammered rivets.
All of the genuine WW1 period Artillery boots I have seen have the reddish rawhide cup. Unless of course it is missing.
Jerry Burney

08-27-2007, 11:36 PM	#12
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,775 Thanks: 4,995 Thanked 3,134 Times in 1,439 Posts	Ronald, There are many points to look for to determine a real period stock boot from a repro. The stock boot is fairly complex and difficult to make with any degree of authenticity. I know because I make them. In my boots I use a leather liner. It is double thickness and a very good looking example, authentic in most respects from the outside but I do not mold in a rawhide cup. It is about the only original method I do not employ in making a complete Artillery rig. I have never actually seen a decent repro boot. Most are made with a single leather thickness and the tabs and keepers are sewn not riveted with hand hammered rivets. All of the genuine WW1 period Artillery boots I have seen have the reddish rawhide cup. Unless of course it is missing. Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."