Rust Bluing on Welded/Soldiered Luger Parts

Thor · 08-19-2001, 12:57 PM

On the last Luger I rust blued when I stripped the old salt bluing from it, I found a place on the gun when a large pitted area was removed and filled in with welded metal. I worried that I got into a real problem and thought that it might have to be refinished in a Salt bluing (was this welding rod or silver soldier?)to cover this up! If it was soldier, then the salt bluing was out because of the highter temperature would melt the soldier. With some trepidation (is that a word?) I started the task of rust bluing! The gun came out fabulously and I was pleased to see I couldnt see the weld in the bluing pattern! WHEW! Was I pleased! ~Thor~

08-19-2001, 10:23 PM

I have wondered about this for a long time--can the steel be matched up through welding to fill pits or holes then rust blued to an even finish. I thought it might require testing the type of steel in the pistol and trying to find a welding rod to match. Apparently the steel match can be done.

What about micro-welding, that is, can very small areas of pits be welded even if close to a marking that must be preserved?

dm

Thor · 08-19-2001, 11:21 PM

Yes, the premiere restorer, not me, does this regualarly, I would worry about too much heat warping surfaces and the heat treat aspect, on grip straps, this seem like the idea place to do this! I am sending Hugh Clark a pitted THROUGH Luger frame to experiment on! We will let you know how this experiment goes, Hugh just needs to learn what these other craftsman like Martz and Morgan have been doing for years! Thor

HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr · 08-20-2001, 12:43 AM

I have welded numerous SIG P210s and a number of Lugers as well.

All my welding is done with a TIG and with the tig I have also welded very close to stamps, that close that the new weld is almost insiede the stamp.

I have welding wires that is very close to the original material , but even though it's very difficult to ALWAYS SUCESS.

As important as the welding rod is, is also the heattreatment and the hardness of the weld.

Normally the weld gets a little bit harder and to have the sligthest chance to make a good job the parts have to be preheated and most important of all anneled.

Best would probably be to softtemper the frame after welding and reharden the camsurfaces.

A furnace is a must.

The most problematic part of all is that you are never really sure that the colour of the weld is going to stay the same as the rest of the gun, the change can often come 2 years later.

Now is the welding and the heattreatment and the wire not the only problems, there is two more problems.

Those are the craftsman and the bluing.

Before I had my own salt bath i went to a profesionnal company, on one occasion I had welded away a dovetail at a 1911 comp.

THe bluing they made on it was perfect, but when they gave me the comp the man dropped it to the floor.

Really sadly as there was no traces of the weld at all.

I had to remove the marks on the comp after the floor repolished the part and got it blued again, and now was the weld there, very visialbe.

I belives the temperature and the time that the part is in the bath is very critical, best result is often at the higher temperatures and often to let the parts stay in the bath overnight.

Regards HÃ?Â¥kan

http://www.vapensmedjan.com

08-19-2001, 12:57 PM	#1
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	Rust Bluing on Welded/Soldiered Luger Parts On the last Luger I rust blued when I stripped the old salt bluing from it, I found a place on the gun when a large pitted area was removed and filled in with welded metal. I worried that I got into a real problem and thought that it might have to be refinished in a Salt bluing (was this welding rod or silver soldier?)to cover this up! If it was soldier, then the salt bluing was out because of the highter temperature would melt the soldier. With some trepidation (is that a word?) I started the task of rust bluing! The gun came out fabulously and I was pleased to see I couldnt see the weld in the bluing pattern! WHEW! Was I pleased! ~Thor~

08-19-2001, 10:23 PM	#2
mlm Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Rust Bluing on Welded/Soldiered Luger Parts I have wondered about this for a long time--can the steel be matched up through welding to fill pits or holes then rust blued to an even finish. I thought it might require testing the type of steel in the pistol and trying to find a welding rod to match. Apparently the steel match can be done. What about micro-welding, that is, can very small areas of pits be welded even if close to a marking that must be preserved? dm

08-19-2001, 11:21 PM	#3
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	Re: Rust Bluing on Welded/Soldiered Luger Parts Yes, the premiere restorer, not me, does this regualarly, I would worry about too much heat warping surfaces and the heat treat aspect, on grip straps, this seem like the idea place to do this! I am sending Hugh Clark a pitted THROUGH Luger frame to experiment on! We will let you know how this experiment goes, Hugh just needs to learn what these other craftsman like Martz and Morgan have been doing for years! Thor

08-20-2001, 12:43 AM	#4
HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 282 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Rust Bluing on Welded/Soldiered Luger Parts I have welded numerous SIG P210s and a number of Lugers as well. All my welding is done with a TIG and with the tig I have also welded very close to stamps, that close that the new weld is almost insiede the stamp. I have welding wires that is very close to the original material , but even though it's very difficult to ALWAYS SUCESS. As important as the welding rod is, is also the heattreatment and the hardness of the weld. Normally the weld gets a little bit harder and to have the sligthest chance to make a good job the parts have to be preheated and most important of all anneled. Best would probably be to softtemper the frame after welding and reharden the camsurfaces. A furnace is a must. The most problematic part of all is that you are never really sure that the colour of the weld is going to stay the same as the rest of the gun, the change can often come 2 years later. Now is the welding and the heattreatment and the wire not the only problems, there is two more problems. Those are the craftsman and the bluing. Before I had my own salt bath i went to a profesionnal company, on one occasion I had welded away a dovetail at a 1911 comp. THe bluing they made on it was perfect, but when they gave me the comp the man dropped it to the floor. Really sadly as there was no traces of the weld at all. I had to remove the marks on the comp after the floor repolished the part and got it blued again, and now was the weld there, very visialbe. I belives the temperature and the time that the part is in the bath is very critical, best result is often at the higher temperatures and often to let the parts stay in the bath overnight. Regards HÃ?Â¥kan http://www.vapensmedjan.com