Semi-Auto Thompson Stock Adapter...

[rhuff]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

Too late. Here's what I have so far. I had a machinist do the milling and adapter plate fab, after all, for $180. My only gripe is that he apparently went a few thousandths too far and had to relieve the rear end of the lower enough to remove the bluing in that area. I took he hardware for the stock to GunBlack, in Interlaken NY, were it was cleaned up by an acid dip, then re-blued. I didn't bother with the pitting and simply had them blue right over it. At least my notion that it would not show the damage when installed proved out!

If I had it to do over again, I'd probably do it myself. The adapter plate is simply a piece of 1/8" x 1", and the milling could be supplanted by first sawing out the bulk of the material that needs to go. Next, I'd use a body grinder to get closer, then carefully true it up and finish it off with file work. The placement of the holes is arbitrary, within bounds, so no biggie there--just need to flush off the ends of the fasteners if they protrude into the top, inside of the lower, where they need to avoid the bolt body.

I think my machinist guy would do it again, but I wasn't all that happy dealing with him. He never answered an email, took forever to get to it (then it was completed, overnight) and I got the impression he wanted more $. At least this approach was more economical than sending it to a Thompson specialist, which made the small goof easy enough to swallow...



Nope, sorry Rich, the one pictured in this listing is the non-removable type for the '27 style. Its front end is curved differently, and you can see on the inside where the cylindrical lug that hangs down from the lower is accommodated, along with the extra meat. I already have two like this--the one original to the carbine, and a new, unissued one without any hardware or finish. It is in better condition than the G.B. offering, and cost me $30. I bought it by mistake,thinking it was what I needed.

It looks to me as though it turned out fine. It functions(I assume) and the butt stock fits up properly. It looks good to me.

When I start out a project, it ALWAYS costs me more to do the first item, as I am "walking in the dark". After the first one is done, usually I have refined my process and the second item is produced faster and cheaper. You did a nice job.

[alanint]

The issue is that they stopped offering this item years ago. What is the date on your catalogue?

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by alanint

The issue is that they stopped offering this item years ago. What is the date on your catalogue?

Quite old - 70's probably (they didn't date them back then, but it's No 10).

I can't see any machinist charging $180 for this work. Sorry. Just my opinion.

Originally Posted by John Sabato

You have a combo Mill/Lathe in your basement. Some of us are not that fortunate, and have to pay the going rate to those who are equipped for the work...

The whole idea behind 90% of my posts is that you CAN get that equipment, for about what a 1937 S/42 in 90% shape or better costs...And you CAN take a course in metal working at your local trade school, at night...

It's not a question of FORTUNATE...

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

...It's not a question of FORTUNATE...

Correct. It's a question of priorities. I'll take one of each. every size and every color! In this case, I could have done it the low tech way, as described, and saved my money for a basic mill or cheap combo, which I could also use for my Erma extractor project. But I know this guy up in Rochester...maybe he can help with that.

[ithacaartist]

Three times the old price of the adapter would be worth it, in terms of time spent making it and dollars spent if hiring the work out or making the piece instead of spending the time at otherwise paying work. Bit I swear it isn't that complicated, just a stock piece of steel 1/8 x 1 cut to length, with the rear end beveled, or radius-ed as in the blueprint, two to four countersunk holes just about anywhere reasonable that will catch the receiver, and the notch for the latch--again, located by the blueprint. For the receiver, one could use a couple of pieces of 1/8 flat bar clamped on either side of the material to be removed, perhaps shimmed up a few thousandths to make sure that a tad more than 1/8 of the base remains. One could hacksaw the rectangle of steel with its lug from the body of the receiver and finish it up with careful grinding and filing. The side plates would keep the methods of removing the steel from going too far. Just have to be sure the front end of the cutout is cut square. This would save any money spent for machine work, and although it might take a while to do it carefully, it's a pretty straightforward project. All the surfaces addressed will be hidden once it's assembled, so no sins showing when done. The machinist said he would saw out the bulk of the extra stuff, as it would have taken too long to hog it all off with a mill cutter.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

Three times the old price of the adapter would be worth it...

That is almost exactly what I would charge, for milling off the bottom ridge and fabricating the T adapter. Assuming no problems, no hardened steel, and the 'customer' had the piece of CRS steel bar stock in his hand along with the assembled buttstock and separate gripframe/receiver.

My last employer paid me $28/hr. Figuring your machinist's fee, that would be 6 1/2 hrs work. That doesn't look like 6 1/2 hours to me. Maybe two hours. More likely less.

I would have said $40 was a fair price, for a milled part, with tool marks left similar to anything found on a Luger. And I would have used socket flat head machine screws, because they are grade 8.

If it was a must-have right-away part, then price is no object. I assume your guy has shop charges to pay; gas, electric, water, property taxes, permits, phone, etc. I don't figure that in any of my calculations. It's already here, whether I do outside work or not. So my estimates don't include any of those incidentals.

If I hadn't had a major life setback 20 years ago, I might have the exact same business your machinist has. And probably the same pricing...and the same bills...

You pays you money and you takes you chances...

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

That is almost exactly what I would charge, for milling off the bottom ridge and fabricating the T adapter. Assuming no problems, no hardened steel, and the 'customer' had the piece of CRS steel bar stock in his hand along with the assembled buttstock and separate gripframe/receiver.

This was my circumstance, plus I provided the Thompson lower's drawing.

My last employer paid me $28/hr. Figuring your machinist's fee, that would be 6 1/2 hrs work. That doesn't look like 6 1/2 hours to me. Maybe two hours. More likely less.

6 1/2 hrs would be a close estimate for me to do it, given the equipment he had available to do it. Plan, set up, mill the notch on the receiver; lay out the plate, round the back corners, rough cut the notch, plan out the screw holes, drill pilots, clamp in place on receiver, transfer hole centers, drill and tap receiver, clearance drill and countersink holes; then fine tune the notch to fit the stock slot, which may take several tries to get it to fit slick--as it does. Maybe more, for me. Someone who knows what he's doing would definitely take less time.

If it was a must-have right-away part, then price is no object. I assume your guy has shop charges to pay; gas, electric, water, property taxes, permits, phone, etc. I don't figure that in any of my calculations. It's already here, whether I do outside work or not. So my estimates don't include any of those incidentals.

Nope, he does "government work" where he's employed, so no overhead. The budget I'd set was perhaps too liberal, although it totaled much less than the quote of $400-something for a stock, adapter, milling the receiver, and fitting it all together, from the guy who designed and made the last run of Numrich adapter kit plates. He had one left, but would only sell if I bought the stock with it. Since I already had the assembled, finished stock... I can also make myself feel better to know that the $280 total I have in the project is also way less than the extra I would have had to pay to just have bought one with that feature.

My shop rate is $65/hr, which beats the local remaining fab shop. So, at my biz rate, at my pace, I'd have had to charge me about double what he did. Obviously, there's no easy substitute for craft knowledge and skills!

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

My shop rate is $65/hr...

That's well outside my comfort zone!

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

That's well outside my comfort zone!

Sorry, Rich, didn't mean to make you uncomfortable. Check the fab shops up there and you'll find the rate comparatively gentle. A fabricator wears many hats, from digging holes to TIG welding. Gotta be part designer, engineer, estimator, woodworker, mason, electrician, machinist, weldor, painter/finisher. etc., including psychotherapist! It's not stuff that nobody else can do, but check out to see if your favorite architect can effectively handle a MIG gun, or even a had drill! It basically requires someone who never made up his mind exactly what to do, so does it all!